Pre-Wash

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Carlover97

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Before I perform a 2 bucket wash, I would like to do a pre-wash/soak, just to be extra safe. What soap, in a foam gun, would work best for the pre-wash?
 
I don't own a Foam gun setup , I typically go to a coin op and high pressure blow it off then back home . I use UWWP as rinseless and use UWWP as a pre-soak on each panel prior to RW each panel . Not sure if this helps or not. .. Good luck
 
Why? If you have good soap and use the right technique, you'll be fine.
 
Assuming you are using a good car wash shampoo, just use the same soap you use in your 2BM wash. When my car is really dirty, I'll presoak with DG901 (usually 3 oz. DG901 + 9 oz. water in the dispenser and use the middle setting).
 
wdmaccord said:
Assuming you are using a good car wash shampoo, just use the same soap you use in your 2BM wash. When my car is really dirty, I'll presoak with DG901 (usually 3 oz. DG901 + 9 oz. water in the dispenser and use the middle setting).
Click to expand...

:iagree:DG 901 in the foam cannon and the buckets........I use this the most.

In fact I buy it by the 5 gallon bucket I like so much.
 
Thanks for all of the replies! I use DG901, but I was thinking that something like CG Honeydew, or DP Xtreme Foam would work better for a pre-soak. Will DG901 work just as well?

Maybe I'm overdoing it. But I'd like to do it to be safe.
A film develops on the car just within an hour after washing, because it sits outside all day.
I wash it every week, and when I do, I rinse the entire car, cover one panel with DG901 in the gun, then use the 2BM, rinse, then on to the next panel.
Would I be wasting my time with a pre-soak? If it would reduce the chance of even one scratch, I'd be willing to do it :)
 
Carlover97 said:
Before I perform a 2 bucket wash, I would like to do a pre-wash/soak, just to be extra safe. What soap, in a foam gun, would work best for the pre-wash?
Click to expand...
I say:
Forget about using this marketing ploy...the foam gun...
as a pre-wash: It doesn't lift, encapsulate, and then float,
or wash away, the accumulated dirt/soils from a vehicle without employment of the appropriate "agitation processes".

IMHO:
The best pre-wash before a 2-bucket wash---a wash that includes the above mentioned "agitation processes"---is to thoroughly rinse the vehicle with a heavy water-stream from a free flowing water source; or a HP washer.


Bob
 
I do what blown03 does. Although I used to own a foam gun many years ago, I ditched it (it was basically useless). I now PW for $2/wash prior to a HW or RW or WW. I also use coatings now, not waxes or sealants. Power washing usually is all I need for cleanups if a coating is on. If I need a HW then its gtechniq UV wash, if I need a RW then its D114, if I need a WW I use Ultima+.
 
FUNX725 said:
I say:
Forget about using this marketing ploy...the foam gun...
as a pre-wash: It doesn't lift, encapsulate, and then float,
or wash away, the accumulated dirt/soils from a vehicle without employment of the appropriate "agitation processes".

IMHO:
The best pre-wash before a 2-bucket wash---a wash that includes the above mentioned "agitation processes"---is to thoroughly rinse the vehicle with a heavy water-stream from a free flowing water source; or a HP washer.


Bob
Click to expand...

Do you believe the dwell time of the car wash soap on the surface helps breakdown the oily road film that seems to hold the dirt to the paint?

When I soak a dirty dish in the sink; it always seems easier to get clean with less scrubbing

Why wouldn't the same principles apply when soaking a vehicle?
 
allenk4 said:
Do you believe the dwell time of the car wash soap on the surface helps breakdown the oily road film that seems to hold the dirt to the paint?

When I soak a dirty dish in the sink; it always seems easier to get clean with less scrubbing

Why wouldn't the same principles apply when soaking a vehicle?
Click to expand...
I don't think any soaps contain strong enough degreasers. Any at all. However mixing in a stronger degreaser (I've seen Zep mixed in with DG 901) would probably have an effect. Or even degreaser alone (I've used P21S TAW in the past) was effective for me. Comparing Dawn on dishes isn't the same as a sealant on paint. They are "attached" to their respective surfaces differently. I don't even do anything different when washing and stripping sealants other than adding a clay process or paint cleaner. I always use DG 901 except for a fee circumstances.
 
allenk4 said:
Do you believe the dwell time of the car wash soap on the surface helps breakdown the oily road film that seems to hold the dirt to the paint?
Click to expand...
No.

allenk4 said:
When I soak a dirty dish in the sink; it always seems easier to get clean with less scrubbing

Why wouldn't the same principles apply when soaking a vehicle?
Click to expand...
IMO...To test your theory:
You need to soak a dirty dish in the sink,
using just the car foam product.

Then again:
All grease/oils are not the same.


Bob
 
I know where are not allowed to post links to other forums, but if you happen to Google "Snow Foam - Urban Legend or Gift from the Gods?" there is a really well documented review of the effectiveness of snow foaming on a UK based detailing forum.

I have personally tested HP rinsing only vs snow foam then HP rinsing and the snow foam definitely helps remove more dirt prior to your contact wash.

In fact I did such as test, albeit on a small scale, during this detail. This was not on a snow foam but rather on a citrus pre-wash, however the concept is the same.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/86973-true-red-mazda-3-mps-detailed-lawrence.html

Sure, not all snow foams are created equally, but there is, IMO, definitely benefit if you are trying to remove as much dirt from the paint prior to a contact wash as possible.
 
We have crazy hard water here in Delaware and I've never owned a Foam Gun nor used any Foam products so I cant comment on them at all .
But I do know Black is unforgiving , if I don't have time to blow it off I don't wash . IMHO good technique as well as good products come into play when the surface is clean of heavy or fine debris on the surface .

At least this is what 6 Black vehicles have taught me anyway . Ever since I started High Pressure Blow offs prior to washing no matter what , both my Black vehicles stay defect free for so much longer , and its so ,so much easier to keep them this way. These are just my opinions and I'm not a pro by any means . Just a lil OCD so I am told :)
 
I am currently using a pressure washer to rinse first, then use a foam cannon. The next step I've done both ways, but don't know what the general consensus is (for those that use foam cannons) is.

Do you:
A) Start washing using the 2-bucket method with mitt while the foam is still on the car, or
B) Rinse the foam off (after giving it time to dwell) and then proceed with the 2-bucket wash with mitt.

I wash my cars in the garage so the lack of wind/sun gives me a little more time compared to doing it outside to work before the car will start to dry. I've talked myself into doing "B" above rationalizing it based on the claims that the foam lifts/encapsulates the dirt/grit. In my mind if this step separates the dirt/grit from the paint, rinsing it off before using the mitt is the safer route to go. Just wondering what the general consensus is and if the last rinse step is a waste of energy.
 
I HP rinse
Foam
HP rinse
2BM wash

To my mind, foaming and then getting straight to work with a 2BM defeats the point of foaming, which is to loosen/encapsulate the dirt allowing it to be rinsed off the car, thus reducing the amount of dirt remaining on the vehicle BEFORE you make contact with it.
 
I would use whatever soap your using in your buckets in a foam canon. How well it foams is irrelevant IMO because you just need a layer of soapy film/water over your vehicle. The foam itself isn't encapsulating the dirt, like Bob mentioned.

Foam cannons are also great in helping getting more lubrication between your wash mitt and the paint. By using it right before the 2BM, you're ensuring there's lubrication on the surface, much more than just what is on/in your mitt.

I disagree pre-rinsing/pre-washing is a waste of time. Especially if vehicle is very dirty. There are at least 2 forms of dirt/dust/debris on your vehicles paint (obviously there are other things and other areas, but to keep this example simple, I just want to discuss the 2 and keep the subject on the paint, as the paint is the part we're trying not to harm the most). The 2 forms of dirt that are on your paint are loose dirt and "bonded" dirt. Loose dirt is the dry dust the has been blown, fallen etc. onto the dry surface of your paint. The "bonded" dirt is stuff that has gotten on your paint while the paint was wet or was wet with something (hopefully with water) and has attached itself to the paint. Pre-rinsing and pre-washing I think we all can agree removes the loose dirt from your paint without having to use the wash mitt and risk marring. It's possible not to mar the paint without a pre-rinse, but why risk it? 2nd, we have the bonded dirt. IMO, rinsing with just water removes X%, albeit a small %, but a % none the less. The debate is whether adding the soapy water/foam, letting it dwell, then rinsing removes a worthy % of the bonded dirt versus just a water rinse. IME it seems to help break a small of amount of those bonds that just pre-rinsing doesn't. Now, depending the amount of dirt, the type, temp, etc., it may appear it does nothing under certain conditions. Once again, it won't remove all bonded dirt without agitation, but some.

Since I buy my soap by the gallon, not much product is needed for this step, and I let it dwell while I finish setting up the 2BM, so it isn't a waste of money or time.

Conversely, I haven't seen an evidence that shows a pre-wash never helps in anyway, ever. So, anything I can do to help reduce the risk of marring, no matter how small, I do it (provided time/money doesn't outweigh that risk) .
 
I dont do it for maintenance washes, but before a start a detail I will use Dawn in the foam cannon. Its great for breaking down grease and road grime. It will also start taking off the old wax for me.
 
i use a foam lance to pre soak my works van, but only because it get absolutely filthy and the paint is as soft as butter. I work on the basis that anything i can do to soften the dirt before i start wiping it around with a mitt has to be a good thing. I also pre soak bug splats on the front of clients cars in the summer to save having to rub too hard to remove them. other than that, the foam lance rarely comes out. i used valet pro citrus prewash for a long time, but recently moved to dodo juice iFoam as it seems to be a little better at actually removing dirt
 
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