Prep work before Re-Sealant / Re-waxing?

[BonziSkier]

It's getting that time to re-wax my 2006 mustang. A couple of months ago I completely detailed my car (washed, clay barred, 3 step polishing to remove scratches and swirls, applied WG DGPS, and a coat of Fuzion).

There are no visable swirls in the finish. I figure the DGPS is still good as it should last 6 months and was protected by a top coat of wax.

1. So where do I start with re-applying wax/sealant? I'm sure I should wash and claybar.
2. Do I need to clean the old wax off prior to re-applying?

oke:

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

It's getting that time to re-wax my 2006 mustang. A couple of months ago I completely detailed my car (washed, clay barred, 3 step polishing to remove scratches and swirls, applied WG DGPS, and a coat of Fuzion).

There are no visable swirls in the finish. I figure the DGPS is still good as it should last 6 months and was protected by a top coat of wax.

1. So where do I start with re-applying wax/sealant? I'm sure I should wash and claybar.
2. Do I need to clean the old wax off prior to re-applying?

oke:

If you clay the car, you will remove the majority, if not all of DGPS and Fuzion. You could then re-apply the DGPS, wait 12 hours, then top with Fuzion. I don't see a point of doing that, just wash the car in it's current state and apply another coat of Fuzion. FYI, don't top Fuzion with WGDGPS, always do it the other way around.

 

[Lasthope05]

Its been a few months already so claying your car will depend upon your specific environment. Do the baggy test to determine if you need it first. You never want to seal in any type of environmental contamination. After claying or not claying use a paint cleaner to prepare the surface for a sealant or wax. e.g. KAIO, Poli-seal, DG 501...etc. Then just top with your choice of LSP.

Also dont believe in most of the claims the manufacturers give on durability. WG DGPS will not last nowhere near 6 months unless its a garage queen. Realistically, its closer to 3-4 months.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The Baggie Test is actually very revealing, it does in fact increase the sensitivity of your touch to enable you to feel contaminants on the paint that you could otherwise not feel.

And if the surface is free from any above surface bonded contaminants, then it will reveal this also...

How detailing clay works and how to use detailing clay to remove above surface bonded contaminants



So inspect your paint first to see if it needs claying, if it does then claying will remove most of what's left of any coating or layer of protection previously applied.

If it feels clean and smooth then you could either apply a fresh coat of wax, (make sure car is washed and clean or wipe clean first), of you could use a light polish or paint cleaner to to clean the paint down to a fresh base and start fresh.

One thing for sure, nothing looks a good as a freshly waxed car...

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

On my last few vettes, I have never been able to get a completely smooth surface with the plastic baggy test after claying. I've used mothers, meguiars, and clay magic. None of the vettes have been re-painted. I dunno why? Maybe I need a more aggresive clay?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

On my last few vettes, I have never been able to get a completely smooth surface with the plastic baggy test after claying. I've used mothers, meguiars, and clay magic. None of the vettes have been re-painted. I dunno why? Maybe I need a more aggresive clay?

Don't feel bad, I've clayed the heck out of paint and still felt little bumps on the paint that claying wouldn't remove. Could be defects that are part of the paint, not just some foreign contaminant bonded on top of the paint.

One thing for sure, the paint is still smoother and cleaner after claying than before claying.

It's a step I would never skip.

Sometimes all you can do is all you can do.


Of course wet-sanding is an option for some people, that will get the paint flat.