Preparing a car for a concour d'elegance competition

Calendyr

Calendyr

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Hello Mike,

I have to work on a car to prepare it for a concour d'elegance in 2 weeks.

I have never done that before so I would like some tips on things to look for, and advice on how to go about the detail.

The client told me the paint on this 1985 Alpha Romeo was in great shape (I hope it's true, something people just don't know how to evaluate paint). And he wanted it waxed. I explained to him that shine is a matter of paint perfection and it would at least need some polishing before applying a wax.

He mentionned he had plastic in the bottom of the car he did not want wax on because they are mate and he wanted them to remain that way (fair enough).

Here is what the car should look like : http://13252-presscdn-0-94.pagely.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/GTV6-Sale-310.jpg

So. Here is my plan:

1. Wash (snow foam, 2 bucket wash, drying)
2. Chemical decontamination (Iron X) and Tar-x if needed
3. Physical decontamination (nanoskin fine sponge). Should I use a clay bar instead?
4. Light polishing unless the paint is damaged. I am thinking finishing pad with M205. Is that something appropriate for what this client needs? If the paint is damaged, I will have to talk to him and see what he wants to do, so I am assuming no swirl marks or scratches right now. Just want to remove any LSP that might be in place and any oxydation to make the paint pop.
5. Car Pro reload as a Sealant (in my arsenal this is the product that seems to give the best shine)

Should I top with a carnauba finishing wax? I never use wax but all my clients have daily drivers, this will be my first show car.

Anything I should avoid doing, or anything I should pay more attention to than usual?
 
Calendyr said:
I have to work on a car to prepare it for a concour d'elegance in 2 weeks.

I will have to talk to him and see what he wants to do
Click to expand...

I'm not Mike but I've got 2 comments.

1st of all, if that car is going to a Concour d'elegance, there should be no talk needed... It's going to Concour d'elegance and that means everything that can be done to take it to the top level will be done. No holds barred, no corners cut. Go all out and charge accordingly. If ever in doubt, just keep a straight face and remind him of "Concour d'elegance"! Lol.

#2. The dudes at Concour d'elegance are "matte guys" That means you need to dress those tires accordingly. I recommend Meguiars M40. It's matte guy approved.
 
IMHO

Need to be period correct. That means wax, not reload.
 
Wheel wells need to be spotless, exposed frame/suspension as well. Clean the inside of the tires and tread as well. Knock down any dressing on the tires, wheel wells, and suspension. As Eldo said, keep it "matte".

I also agree with Ron, use a wax. Perfect time to use Pinnacle Souveran. If you don't have any, order some and charge the client. Let him keep the remaining Souveran.
 
My only comment is "Good Luck" and as Eldorado2K said. No holds barred.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
One other really awesome use I've found for spray wax/sealant (Meguiar's D156) is "waxing" door jambs, under hood paint, trunk etc.
 
And a pristine engine and bay as well. Concours d'Elegance is very discerning and includes a perfect interior and every visible piece and part.
 
The first thing to do is get a copy of the score sheet and the judging manual if possible.

If this is an alpha specific concours, your criteria are likely to be far more stringent. And if it's alpha specific, find out if you can have a discussion with the head judge or the class judges that will evaluate the car. If he really wants an award, ask if the judge can take some time and review the vehicle weeks prior to the event to point out items that are not correct.

Understand that concours is not about the best detail, it's about the most factory correct. Example: when i did a Shelby gt500, I cleaned the engine bay completely, taking care not to remove any of the markings on parts and hoses, but also had to go back and apply oil to all the black phosphate bolts, because that's how they would look from the factory. I also had to leave some adhesive residue in a few areas because that's what it 'should' look like. These are the kinds of things a judging manual may establish, or may only be discovered by talking with the judge. These are obviously extreme examples that may not come into play if the judges don't truly know the car.

Also, clean the tool kit.
 
I would recommend a Rinseless wash over a foam/2 bucket wash. There are many places for water to be trapped on an older car with a hose wash, and this can lead to rusting. The car should not be dirty enough to need cleaning like a daily driver.
I would also recommend lots of detailing swabs, work towels, and brushes. You want to get every piece that can be seen as clean as possible.
I like glaze and premium paste wax as the finishers.
 
What I would do in this case as well is put a few layers of wax on it AFTER a good sealant. Use reload, absolutely. I would differ from the others in this approach. Use a good sealant underneath, and then put a few thin layers of wax on top, of something that's a pure show wax like Souveran. Keep a spray bottle of ice cold water near by and spritz it on to avoid any carnauba hazing that might happen. If you can find a way to take the car apart, do it and then re-assemble it after polishing and what not to seal it. Tape as much as you could to avoid any over-application of anything. After correction I would definitely jewel the paint as well.
 
WillSports3 said:
What I would do in this case as well is put a few layers of wax on it AFTER a good sealant.
Click to expand...

Why even worry about using a sealant? The focus should be on getting it ready for 1 day of looking it's absolute best, not long term protection.

The way I see it, who cares if it's wax protection is gone in 3-4 weeks, as long as it pops to the max the day of the show.
 
You want long term protection, less contaminants built up, less aggressive clay for next team meaning a less aggressive polish next time. The sealant is for long term care, and if it's a show car it'll last forever and a day. You want the next prep to just be some minor claying and some more wax, not to have to cut out marring marks with a more aggressive polish. I get show cars are usually a repaint anyway but why set it up so you have to remove more clear next time?
 
WillSports3 said:
You want long term protection, less contaminants built up, less aggressive clay for next team meaning a less aggressive polish next time. The sealant is for long term care, and if it's a show car it'll last forever and a day. You want the next prep to just be some minor claying and some more wax, not to have to cut out marring marks with a more aggressive polish. I get show cars are usually a repaint anyway but why set it up so you have to remove more clear next time?
Click to expand...

While it's not a huge difference in looks, I'd still want to squeeze the most out of it and not interfere with it by adding a sealant into the mix.

Odds are this car is garage kept, so it's not like it's going to be hammered with contaminants from here on out. Long term protection would be the last thing on my mind.

Claying doesn't guarantee they'll be marring. And even if there is, why would an aggressive polish be needed?

ronkh57 said:
IMHO

Need to be period correct. That means wax, not reload.
Click to expand...

LEDetailing said:
I also agree with Ron, use a wax. Perfect time to use Pinnacle Souveran. If you don't have any, order some and charge the client. Let him keep the remaining Souveran.
Click to expand...

I agree with this.^
 
Both Wills (Windows & Wheels) and I recently spent about 3 days researching Concourse detailing for a customer with a 31 R/R P1, which did win two concourse events and came in 2nd place at Pebble Beach.

In our research we found provenance and period (time) are two very important factors when dealing with concourse vehicles. Too much of a good thing is just that... too much, and can get judged negatively. Meaning, did they have CQ Finest in 1931? probably not, but they did have some kind of wax. I personally would stay away form synthetic sealants and ceramic coatings.

As Eldo-2k said, it's there to get judged for one day and how it sits based upon provenance and period. Getting and obtaining scoring cards is next to impossible. It's worth a shot if you can, but we found it difficult. A lot of time has to be spent as others stated on under-carriage, engine compartment (but to make it clean and presentable). Do they have a one-knee-rule for looking under the car?

Of course getting out swirls, scratches, water etchings and polishing chrome are all part of what any good detailer want's to do, however, it's anyone's guess what the judges will really look for at the end of the event. What we found out was the car has to be clean and presentable. Remember, the judges may not even know the difference between a swirl and a squirrel.

Also, will you be going with the vehicle as the "groomer"? If so, wear appropriate attire and be on best behavior as you may be judged as well.
 
I would say that certain sealant and wax combinations give a better look than just wax. I think this might be personal preference here though.
That being said if it's a concourse event paint will only be part of it, and probably the easiest part. The hardest part will be every book and cranny, and your tires not being too shiney or too dull and passing the white glove test. I think the undercarriage will be the hardest part to not just clean but also to bring back the brand new look of it.
 
Calendyr said:
Hello Mike,

I have to work on a car to prepare it for a concour d'elegance in 2 weeks.

I have never done that before so I would like some tips on things to look for, and advice on how to go about the detail.

The client told me the paint on this 1985 Alpha Romeo was in great shape (I hope it's true, something people just don't know how to evaluate paint). And he wanted it waxed. I explained to him that shine is a matter of paint perfection and it would at least need some polishing before applying a wax.
Click to expand...


My guess is you're right. Most of my life when a car owner tells me,

"She's in pretty good shape"


My idea of pretty good and their idea of pretty good are galaxies apart.



Calendyr said:
He mentionned he had plastic in the bottom of the car he did not want wax on because they are mate and he wanted them to remain that way (fair enough).

Here is what the car should look like :
Click to expand...


Here's your picture, I downloaded it and then put it in our gallery. Looks kind of like an old=school Volkswagen Scirocco.


Alpha_Romeo.jpg



1980 Scirocco
shiracco_01.jpg




Calendyr said:
So. Here is my plan:

1. Wash (snow foam, 2 bucket wash, drying) <-- I only use a 2-bucket method on paint in great shape.

2. Chemical decontamination (Iron X) and Tar-x if needed <-- should be okay to do this...

3. Physical decontamination (nanoskin fine sponge). Should I use a clay bar instead? <-- both should be safe if you use lots of lube. Do the baggie test first.

Actually, I try to ALWAYS do the baggie test myself and then while the owner is present, have them do the baggie test. This is important if YOU discover a bumpy texture when you do the baggie test and the reason why is because most people don't know what the baggie test is and most people don't know or understand how contaminated their paint is.

So to "tell" them is one thing. To "show" them is the more powerful thing. Let's them know you know your stuff too...


Calendyr said:
4. Light polishing unless the paint is damaged. I am thinking finishing pad with M205. Is that something appropriate for what this client needs? If the paint is damaged, I will have to talk to him and see what he wants to do, so I am assuming no swirl marks or scratches right now. Just want to remove any LSP that might be in place and any oxydation to make the paint pop.
Click to expand...

A light polish like M205 with a foam polishing pad would be a very safe choice. Of course, inspect the paint first and always do a Test Spot.


Calendyr said:
5. Car Pro reload as a Sealant (in my arsenal this is the product that seems to give the best shine)

Should I top with a carnauba finishing wax? I never use wax but all my clients have daily drivers, this will be my first show car.
Click to expand...

After you do all the above prep steps just about any quality wax, sealant or spray on sealant should look great.

Go with what you know...


Calendyr said:
Anything I should avoid doing, or anything I should pay more attention to than usual?
Click to expand...

I don't do Concours detailing myself. I like to polish paint. Concours level detailing is detailing every section of the car and go over every area with a fine-tooth comb. You need to make sure you don't invest lots of hours for very little pay unless you simply want the challenge and pictures to showcase your talent.

Just use common sense and clean and shine/protect everything and every surface. You'll do great.


:)
Click to expand...
 
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