Preparing for first correction, what am I forgetting?

[Andringa]

This in my first post on the forums, and this place is amazing. I'm getting ready to try my first paint correction with a PC7424xp and I'm wondering what I am missing and what I am going to do wrong.

Our two cars that I want to do are a 2008 Chevy Equinox and a 2004 Cadillac CTS-V. Both are black (41U) and full of swirls.

My plan:
Wash
Mother's Clay bar using Mother's Showtime as a lubricant
PC7424XP with 5" and 3.5" backing plates
Meguiars #105 on 5.5" flat LC orange pads and 4" CCS orange pads
Meguiars #205 on 5.5" flat LC white pads and 4" CCS white pads
Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze on 5.5" flat LC black pad
Collinite #845 on 5.5" flat LC black pad

After the correction I plan on using the Dr. Colorchip system for addressing the road rash on the CTS-V bumper. I've read that it is better to do this after correction as it isn't suggested to polish the fresh touch up paint.

I'm wondering if you guys would recommend different pads for the #7 or #845 steps.

Any other comments or suggestions are welcome. I am about to order the Dr. Colorchip and some other supplies, with free shipping over $95 I'm wondering if there is anything else I should pick up to make my life easier.Feed back please

 

[dougaross]

I assume you have sufficient MFs. I use red pad for 845

 

[embolism]

I don't think you need the #7, if you really want a glaze, then I'd go with poorboys black hole

If you don't want to spring for the 32oz size of Menz PO85rd, then you can always get the 16oz of 106FA (Menz super finish). These are mainly for jeweling with a black pad.

For half your test spot you might want to try 205 on a black pad after doing it on a white pad and see if you notice any difference.

 

[Andringa]

MF? You guys sure do love acronyms around here I'm assuming you mean Micro Fiber towels, I just got 6 16x16 towels on the BOGO a week ago and have a couple other random ones.

I have two red 5.5" pads as well, perhaps I'll try them out and see how they work. I've read that they can absorb a lot of product compared to the black pads.

How many pads do you guys usually use in a correction like this? I was thinking that I could get away with one pad each for the glaze and LSP, but I was wondering if I should get more orange/white pads. I currently have.

2 - 5.5" orange
4 - 4" orange
2 - 5.5" white
2 - 4" white
2 - 5.5" black
2 - 5.5" red

 

[Andringa]

I don't think you need the #7, if you really want a glaze, then I'd go with poorboys black hole

If you don't want to spring for the 32oz size of Menz PO85rd, then you can always get the 16oz of 106FA (Menz super finish). These are mainly for jeweling with a black pad.

For half your test spot you might want to try 205 on a black pad after doing it on a white pad and see if you notice any difference.

I had looked into the 106FA a while ago and totally forgot about it when I went to order. Is the 106FA something that has to be worked by machine?

In general how do you go about working on tight areas like inside door handles and on sharp corners/edges with products that are meant to be applied by machine?


Does anyone have recommendations for exterior glass polishing? I looked at the 5.5" glass polishing pads and thought about using them with m105 and m205 or possibly dedicated glass polish, but I couldn't figure out what I wanted and didn't get anything. It sounds like some people get decent glass results with normal foam pads too, which made me think the dedicated glass pad would be a waste.

Thanks for the responses guys!

 

[rwright]

For the CTS-V I would start here: Black CTS-V, heavy paint correction and Opti-Guard coating

Pad selection is tough because what works for some may not work for others. I recently used Surbuf pads to slice through hard clear coat and followed that up with Meg's 5" micro fiber pads/D300 compound then 5.5" gray LC CCS pads/PO85RD.

I keep the following on hand:
Surbuf 5.5"
LC 5.5" Hydro-Tech low profile cyan/tangerine
Orange/White/Green/Gray LC 5.5" CCS pads
Meg's 3" & 5" micro fiber pads
Meg's M105/M205/D300/Menzerna Power Finish/Menzerna PO85RD

 

[Andringa]

I looked for some information on the Meguiars #7 and it doesn't sound like it is what I was looking for. Like always though Mike Phillips has an article with some amazing information about using it on single stage paints.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/25304-secret-removing-oxidation-restoring-show-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

Rwright that CTS-V correction was actually what brought me to Auto Geek. After getting some info from Raskyr1 I decided it was time for me to get a DA and stop ignoring the swirl marks all over my car.

Looking at the Menzerna products could you compare the PO85rd and PO106FA. Sounds like people use the 106FA for jeweling, but it seems like PO85RD would be better since it is less agressive.

 

[dougaross]

MF? You guys sure do love acronyms around here I'm assuming you mean Micro Fiber towels, I just got 6 16x16 towels on the BOGO a week ago and have a couple other random ones.

I have two red 5.5" pads as well, perhaps I'll try them out and see how they work. I've read that they can absorb a lot of product compared to the black pads.

How many pads do you guys usually use in a correction like this? I was thinking that I could get away with one pad each for the glaze and LSP, but I was wondering if I should get more orange/white pads. I currently have.

2 - 5.5" orange
4 - 4" orange
2 - 5.5" white
2 - 4" white
2 - 5.5" black
2 - 5.5" red

For applying wax/sealant you don't need a pad with cut, so go with red. If your applying 845 the fact that pad absorbs product won't hurt you since you will not have to keep adding product. Just spread the product in the pad. 845 wants to be thinly applied.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I looked for some information on the Meguiars #7 and it doesn't sound like it is what I was looking for.

Like always though Mike Phillips has an article with some amazing information about using it on single stage paints.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

#7 isn't going to do a lot for such a new car with a clear coat...

The paint should look pretty good after the M205, if you want second finishing step go with the Menzerna PO85RD wit a finishing pad. work at the 5.0 speed setting with a medium to firm pressure for the first couple of passes and the lighten up your pressure a little and make a few more passes then carefully wipe off.

 

[embolism]

In general how do you go about working on tight areas like inside door handles and on sharp corners/edges with products that are meant to be applied by machine?

You can apply polishes by hand using a foam applicator it just takes a bit of elbow grease to work them. CCS makes hand applicators that have difft levels of cut but I just use the pinnacle applicators for areas like under the door handles.

Looking at the Menzerna products could you compare the PO85rd and PO106FA. Sounds like people use the 106FA for jeweling, but it seems like PO85RD would be better since it is less agressive.

Both products have the same type of "crystal" the 106FA just has more of it. On soft paint like my car, you could stop after power finish with an orange pad, the Menz polishes finish down that well. Not sure about the hard paint of a CTS though.