Prepping for Opti-Coat 2.0 on a brand new car?

S

SonyHome

New member
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
40
Reaction score
0
Hi,

This is my first post and I'm hoping someone here can provide me with some guidance as I'm pretty new to all of this.

I just purchase brand new 2014 Lexus IS350 and I would like to Opti-Coat 2.0 which I purchased from AutoGeek.net. Since I live in MN where temperatures are currently ~ zero degrees and can't pressure wash my car so my plan was to:


My questions are:

  • Since this is brand new car coming directly from factory as special order do I need to clay and/or compound the car before polishing? I'm asking the dealer to not to buff or wash the car unless it is touch-free and air dry only so no one should be touching the paint with anything before I get it.
  • Are the 3M compound and polish ok to use for my purpose?
  • Is it ok to apply Opti-Coat 2.0 at temperatures that would be ~ 0 - 30 degrees?
  • With the cold weather how long do I need to let the Opti-Coat 2.0 set before I start driving?
  • I will be doing Paint Protection Film over the Opti-Coat 2.0 after couple weeks. Would there be any issues with this?

Thank you for any advise in advance.
 
You make no mention of having a heated Garage?

Without the use of a heated Garage, I'm afraid you will be out of luck with virtually all processes you wish to do.

No wax, sealant, and especially a coating is going to work at temps such as that, and I would say even 50 degrees would be pushing it with any Coating.

Sure, claying wouldn't be a no no, but not sure why you would even consider needing the use of a compound on a brand new vehicle?
But even claying, onto ice cold paint just isn't going to work.

What I would probably do if I was in your position, and could at least get access to a heated garage with at least 50-55 degree temps for a few hours, is just put a coat of wax on it for now, and some good protectant on vinyl, and rubber.

Something like Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, while not as easy to work at 50 degrees like it would be at 70, you'd be able to apply it, and remove it without causing some serious weird things to your paint.

Think of something like this to at least give some decent protection on the vehicle until the warmer weather comes. And for you, that would probably be 5-6 months from now.

Others might have some other ideas, but I think all will agree that something like the coating in very cold temps is just not going to work correctly.
Mark
 
Sorry, I re-read you post, and do see you make mention of a Garage.

I also wish to welcome you to the forum!
 
Thank you for your reply! I really appreciate it.

My garage is not heated although it is indoors and I could put my space heater near by. I don't think the temperature in the garage would be more than 30 or 40 degrees.

Thanks for confirming that no compounding is needed for brand new car.
 
I've never used Opti-Coat, but have read enough threads-posts about it during my year of membership here, and to say that the use of this product in such conditions will be a no-go.

I myself personally wouldn't chance it, especially a brand spanking new expensive vehicle like this, even probably at 50 degrees, with a forced air heater of some sort in the garage.

Not always living here in the southwest, I lived the first 48 years of my life in both Chicago, and Sheboygan Wisc, so I am familiar with car care in cold temps.

In Chicago, I had a 45,000 BTU forced air Torpedo Propane Fired Heater which would at least permit me to do wipe downs, and some limited amount of cleaning, and some waxing.

A heater such as something like this might help with minor work, but I'd still be leery of the use of a Coating like Opti-Coat.

The other thoughts about the use of such heaters in limited spaces, is they can be quite dangerous since for one, they are not vented. With heat also comes carbon monoxide, and also the depletion of oxygen in closed areas. Not to mention the possible fire hazards.

I still would say hang onto all your goodies until the warmer weather comes, that they'll be there for you to use at that time.

A conventional wax will be able to be easily removed with the proper prep products for Opti-Coat when the warmer weather comes.

A true dilemma IMO, but this is just my opinion, perhaps others will comment, and can offer some other advice, and ideas?
Best of luck with your new vehicle. Mark

PS: I gather Opti-Coat, even under prime conditions has a somewhat slow cure time. Under less that proper conditions, and in such cold, Opti-Coat may possibly never dry. For sure it won't dry correctly.
 
MarkD51 said:
I've never used Opti-Coat, but have read enough threads-posts about it during my year of membership here, and to say that the use of this product in such conditions will be a no-go.

I myself personally wouldn't chance it, especially a brand spanking new expensive vehicle like this, even probably at 50 degrees, with a forced air heater of some sort in the garage.

Not always living here in the southwest, I lived the first 48 years of my life in both Chicago, and Sheboygan Wisc, so I am familiar with car care in cold temps.

In Chicago, I had a 45,000 BTU forced air Torpedo Propane Fired Heater which would at least permit me to do wipe downs, and some limited amount of cleaning, and some waxing.

A heater such as something like this might help with minor work, but I'd still be leery of the use of a Coating like Opti-Coat.

The other thoughts about the use of such heaters in limited spaces, is they can be quite dangerous since for one, they are not vented. With heat also comes carbon monoxide, and also the depletion of oxygen in closed areas. Not to mention the possible fire hazards.

I still would say hang onto all your goodies until the warmer weather comes, that they'll be there for you to use at that time.

A conventional wax will be able to be easily removed with the proper prep products for Opti-Coat when the warmer weather comes.

A true dilemma IMO, but this is just my opinion, perhaps others will comment, and can offer some other advice, and ideas?
Best of luck with your new vehicle. Mark

PS: I gather Opti-Coat, even under prime conditions has a somewhat slow cure time. Under less that proper conditions, and in such cold, Opti-Coat may possibly never dry. For sure it won't dry correctly.
Click to expand...

I do also have 60,000 btu weber propane grill in the garage I could use to heat up. :)

It gets little more complicated since I want to do the paint protection film soon. I would like to polish and opti-coat before they PPF the full bumper, full hood and full fender.

If opti-coat can't be applied perhaps I could at least clay & polish but you mentioned clay also may not work in 30 - 40 degree temps either. If my car doesn't need clay is there any issues just polishing in 30 - 40 degrees? I bought Dewalt 849x for this.
 
Check with your installer for the PPF. Mine told me not to put a coating under the PPF because the PPF might not adhere properly.
 
Very well said:dblthumb2:




MarkD51 said:
You make no mention of having a heated Garage?

Without the use of a heated Garage, I'm afraid you will be out of luck with virtually all processes you wish to do.

No wax, sealant, and especially a coating is going to work at temps such as that, and I would say even 50 degrees would be pushing it with any Coating.

Sure, claying wouldn't be a no no, but not sure why you would even consider needing the use of a compound on a brand new vehicle?
But even claying, onto ice cold paint just isn't going to work.

What I would probably do if I was in your position, and could at least get access to a heated garage with at least 50-55 degree temps for a few hours, is just put a coat of wax on it for now, and some good protectant on vinyl, and rubber.

Something like Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, while not as easy to work at 50 degrees like it would be at 70, you'd be able to apply it, and remove it without causing some serious weird things to your paint.

Think of something like this to at least give some decent protection on the vehicle until the warmer weather comes. And for you, that would probably be 5-6 months from now.

Others might have some other ideas, but I think all will agree that something like the coating in very cold temps is just not going to work correctly.
Mark
Click to expand...
 
MarkD51's recommendations are spot on!!

A couple of other thoughts:
You mention you purchased a Dewault 849--are you aware this is a direct drive rotary polisher--if you don't have considerable experience with this type of polisher you should return it ASAP and purchase a Random Orbital Dual Action polisher like the Griots, Porter Cable or Megs. You can cause serious damage quickly with a Rotary polisher like the Dewault if you don't know how to use it.

Also, there are many better and safer polishing products available than the 3M products that are much easier and safer to use--especially if you are new to machine polishing. You may not even need a compound since the car is new.
 
SonyHome said:
I do also have 60,000 btu weber propane grill in the garage I could use to heat up. :)

It gets little more complicated since I want to do the paint protection film soon. I would like to polish and opti-coat before they PPF the full bumper, full hood and full fender.

If opti-coat can't be applied perhaps I could at least clay & polish but you mentioned clay also may not work in 30 - 40 degree temps either. If my car doesn't need clay is there any issues just polishing in 30 - 40 degrees? I bought Dewalt 849x for this.
Click to expand...

Again my friend, using such to heat a garage can be quite dangerous, and deadly. There's been many people who have succumbed to doing such, like trying to heat houses with kitchen stoves, and other makeshift heaters. Again, carbon monoxide is deadly, odorless.

Once I was using my propane bullet in my two-car garage in Chicago. Temps were about 15 degrees outside roughly. The heater had been running for a good 45 minutes, was getting some waxing done, and was working fine. Then I went to light a cigarette, and a Zippo Lighter which I had just filled earlier that morning was not lighting?

Muttering to myself as to why, and saying this is strange, it isn't lighting and I just filled it?! What the ^%&?. Then it hit me, there's no oxygen in the garage, the propane heater was using it all up!

Sure enough, I hit the overhead door switch, opened the door about a foot, the cold air came rushing in, and sure enough, the lighter lit immediately after that. That day I learned an unknown to me danger, not necessarily carbon monoxide, but lack of oxygen.

A proper installation would require venting a properly designed heater for such installations..

Most garages are extremely difficult to heat. Most usually have a concrete floor which you could say is just like one big giant block of ice. And most common garages aren't insulated. That just doing a simple wipe down with a warm bucket of water is difficult, and surely isn't like doing it on a 65-70 degree day.

A man I know down here has a heated machine shop with a vented heater, where he has his equipment, and a stored Mercedes Benz classic, and it takes a good couple of hours to get the shop to warm up to comfortable temps. And that's here in New Mexico with our wintertime.

Most of us who face relatively cold winters due to location usually prep and protect our vehicles before the cold weather hits, but you don't have that option with this new vehicle that's coming.
Mark
 
ski2 said:
MarkD51's recommendations are spot on!!

A couple of other thoughts:
You mention you purchased a Dewault 849--are you aware this is a direct drive rotary polisher--if you don't have considerable experience with this type of polisher you should return it ASAP and purchase a Random Orbital Dual Action polisher like the Griots, Porter Cable or Megs. You can cause serious damage quickly with a Rotary polisher like the Dewault if you don't know how to use it.

Also, there are many better and safer polishing products available than the 3M products that are much easier and safer to use--especially if you are new to machine polishing. You may not even need a compound since the car is new.
Click to expand...

I just purchased the Dewalt 849x from Amazon during Black Friday special for ~ $110. What do you mean by serious damage? What is the proper way to use this type of buffer? I guess I didn't know the difference.

Also why do you indicate 3M ultra fine polisher may not be safe? I won't use the compound on my car but I may on my wife's 7 year old silver Honda Accord in the spring.
 
MarkD51 said:
Again my friend, using such to heat a garage can be quite dangerous, and deadly. There's been many people who have succumbed to doing such, like trying to heat houses with kitchen stoves, and other makeshift heaters. Again, carbon monoxide is deadly, odorless.

Once I was using my propane bullet in my two-car garage in Chicago. Temps were about 15 degrees outside roughly. The heater had been running for a good 45 minutes, was getting some waxing done, and was working fine. Then I went to light a cigarette, and a Zippo Lighter which I had just filled earlier that morning was not lighting?

Muttering to myself as to why, and saying this is strange, it isn't lighting and I just filled it?! What the ^%&?. Then it hit me, there's no oxygen in the garage, the propane heater was using it all up!

Sure enough, I hit the overhead door switch, opened the door about a foot, the cold air came rushing in, and sure enough, the lighter lit immediately after that. That day I learned an unknown to me danger, not necessarily carbon monoxide, but lack of oxygen.

A proper installation would require venting a properly designed heater for such installations..

Most garages are extremely difficult to heat. Most usually have a concrete floor which you could say is just like one big giant block of ice. And most common garages aren't insulated. That just doing a simple wipe down with a warm bucket of water is difficult, and surely isn't like doing it on a 65-70 degree day.

A man I know down here has a heated machine shop with a vented heater, where he has his equipment, and a stored Mercedes Benz classic, and it takes a good couple of hours to get the shop to warm up to comfortable temps. And that's here in New Mexico with our wintertime.

Most of us who face relatively cold winters due to location usually prep and protect our vehicles before the cold weather hits, but you don't have that option with this new vehicle that's coming.
Mark
Click to expand...

Understood. I guess I'll probably have to to wait until spring to do both Opti-Coat 2.0 and PPF. :(

It sounds like 3M products and Dewalt 849x buffer may not be the right tools also based on some comments here.

I tried to get this done professionally but price was ~$800 and I thought it wasn't reasonable especially on a brand new car.
 
Glad to see you've made your way over here from the Club Lexus forums...

As already mentioned, I would not attempt to install a coating in the conditions you have described.

Also, I would not recommend 3M products be used for polishing prior to coating as I have been told by several trusted sources that they have seen adverse effects when using a coating after using 3M polish. Also, you will want to use a DA machine for best results IMO.

With that being said, I would recommend the Optimum line of products that are meant to be used with Opti Coat.


Regarding the work needed on a brand new car, it should be treated just like any other car.

First, thoroughly clean and decontaminate the surface. Then properly inspect the condition of the paint and chose your plan of action based on your findings. I have seen plenty of brand new cars that look worse than some 10 year old cars (I'm sure you could see the same if you walk through the dealership showroom).

If you're lucky enough to get a brand new car in near perfect shape, a simple very light polishing with a fine finishing polish may be all that is needed before you apply the coating.
 
SonyHome said:
I just purchased the Dewalt 849x from Amazon during Black Friday special for ~ $110. What do you mean by serious damage? What is the proper way to use this type of buffer? I guess I didn't know the difference.

Also why do you indicate 3M ultra fine polisher may not be safe? I won't use the compound on my car but I may on my wife's 7 year old silver Honda Accord in the spring.
Click to expand...

In a nut shell the Dewalt is a direct drive rotary polisher--if you leave it too long in one spot on the paint it can burn through the clear coat in a snap. Rotarys are great for quick correction on trashed paint in the hands of an experienced operator, but dangerous for the rest of us. With a random orbital dual action polisher it is very difficult to damage your paint. Even with the Griots polisher (highly recommended bkz of the power and lifetime warranty) which is the most powerful of the standard DAs you'd have to really try hard to damage your paint.

The 3M products are not up to par with the modern compounds and polishes from other manufactures IMO and are not used by many of us here on AG. As long as you're going to eventually apply OptiCoat 2.0 why not use Optimum polish (and compound if you need it). They are easy to use, have long working times and don't dust. Another added advantage is that you don't need to do an IPA wipe down before applying OptiCoat if you use Optimum polishes--just give the car an Optimum No Rinse wash and you're good to go. Optimum Hyper Polish or Polish II are both great products.

Here's a link to How To articles by Mike Phillips that may be very helpful in answering your questions--it also contains videos on how to use a DA polisher.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ke-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html
 
Do you know what brand of PPF you will be getting?

I work closely with an installer and we have both talked with XPEL about OC and PPF and we were both told that you can put OC on the paint then the apply a clear bra or you can polish the paint then apply the clear bra then apply OC on top of the PPF film.

I have done a few cars with the OC first then a clear bra
 
SonyHome said:
Understood. I guess I'll probably have to to wait until spring to do both Opti-Coat 2.0 and PPF. :(

It sounds like 3M products and Dewalt 849x buffer may not be the right tools also based on some comments here.

I tried to get this done professionally but price was ~$800 and I thought it wasn't reasonable especially on a brand new car.
Click to expand...


I would say that all things being equal, a new vehicle, even 6 months from now after a Minnesota winter should not require the need of having a Rotary Buffer/Polisher run over the paint to make it look brand new.

Rotarys can save some time, and more quickly correct a paint that is hammered, but I doubt you'd ever need such even 6 months from now. And a Rotary in the wrong, or inexperienced hands can be a recipe for disaster on a vehicle. Remember that the clear coat on top your paint is about the thickness of a postage stamp.

Come spring, I would seriously consider getting yourself a nice DA machine, like the Porter Cable 7424XP, or the Griots Garage GG 6". A 5" Backing Plate (and perhaps a 3"-3.5" Backing Plate) a nice assortment of LC Foam Pads, and something like the Wolfgang Twins (Total Swirl Remover & Finishing Glaze) Other products which many are liking, are the Pinnacle Gold Label 850 Coating (easy as pie) and to prep with the Pinnacle Coating Prep product before applying the coating. Or use the Paint Prep, then the Opti-Coat you have on hand. For coatings, the paint has to be absolutely squeaky clean, and perfected before application.

My 1997 Tahoe (pictured in my Avatar) with 39K on the odometer seen 6 Chicago Winters before I moved here, and never even near needed the useage of a Rotary Machine on the Paint in all the years I owned it since new.

I would say at this point, less will be more, if you can, I would at least try to get some protection on the paint, if some regular wax can be applied, something like the Collinite 845 Liquid Insulator Wax I spoke of earlier is a highly durable product, and just do very careful washes in the meantime after, until the spring comes.
Mark
 
ski2 said:
In a nut shell the Dewalt is a direct drive rotary polisher--if you leave it too long in one spot on the paint it can burn through the clear coat in a snap. Rotarys are great for quick correction on trashed paint in the hands of an experienced operator, but dangerous for the rest of us. With a random orbital dual action polisher it is very difficult to damage your paint. Even with the Griots polisher (highly recommended bkz of the power and lifetime warranty) which is the most powerful of the standard DAs you'd have to really try hard to damage your paint.

The 3M products are not up to par with the modern compounds and polishes from other manufactures IMO and are not used by many of us here on AG. As long as you're going to eventually apply OptiCoat 2.0 why not use Optimum polish (and compound if you need it). They are easy to use, have long working times and don't dust. Another added advantage is that you don't need to do an IPA wipe down before applying OptiCoat if you use Optimum polishes--just give the car an Optimum No Rinse wash and you're good to go. Optimum Hyper Polish or Polish II are both great products.

Here's a link to How To articles by Mike Phillips that may be very helpful in answering your questions--it also contains videos on how to use a DA polisher.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ke-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html
Click to expand...

Thank you. I guess I'll be returning bunch of stuff I just bought! My wife will think I'm little more crazy now.... LOL! :D
 
Evan.J said:
Do you know what brand of PPF you will be getting?

I work closely with an installer and we have both talked with XPEL about OC and PPF and we were both told that you can put OC on the paint then the apply a clear bra or you can polish the paint then apply the clear bra then apply OC on top of the PPF film.

I have done a few cars with the OC first then a clear bra
Click to expand...

I was wanting to go with Xpel Ultimate but installer talked me into Suntek Self Healing film. I was planning to have it installed middle of January sometime. They seem to be about the same with Xpel having longer warranty but installer said he'll warranty for life. When I asked him if having Opti-Coat before PPF, he didn't seem to have an opinion.
 
MarkD51 said:
I would say that all things being equal, a new vehicle, even 6 months from now after a Minnesota winter should not require the need of having a Rotary Buffer/Polisher run over the paint to make it look brand new.

Rotarys can save some time, and more quickly correct a paint that is hammered, but I doubt you'd ever need such even 6 months from now. And a Rotary in the wrong, or inexperienced hands can be a recipe for disaster on a vehicle. Remember that the clear coat on top your paint is about the thickness of a postage stamp.

Come spring, I would seriously consider getting yourself a nice DA machine, like the Porter Cable 7424XP, or the Griots Garage GG 6". A 5" Backing Plate (and perhaps a 3"-3.5" Backing Plate) a nice assortment of LC Foam Pads, and something like the Wolfgang Twins (Total Swirl Remover & Finishing Glaze) Other products which many are liking, are the Pinnacle Gold Label 850 Coating (easy as pie) and to prep with the Pinnacle Coating Prep product before applying the coating. Or use the Paint Prep, then the Opti-Coat you have on hand. For coatings, the paint has to be absolutely squeaky clean, and perfected before application.

My 1997 Tahoe (pictured in my Avatar) with 39K on the odometer seen 6 Chicago Winters before I moved here, and never even near needed the useage of a Rotary Machine on the Paint in all the years I owned it since new.

I would say at this point, less will be more, if you can, I would at least try to get some protection on the paint, if some regular wax can be applied, something like the Collinite 845 Liquid Insulator Wax I spoke of earlier is a highly durable product, and just do very careful washes in the meantime after, until the spring comes.
Mark
Click to expand...

Thank you Mark for all your inputs. Great people like you make sites like this very worth-while!

I'm assuming Collinite 845 can be applied in below freezing temps?

I'm planning to return all the stuff I bought and get the Porter Cable 7424XP, or the Griots Garage GG 6" as you recommend. Are there any nice package with the needed pads on AutoGeek.net for these?

I'll also look to get Optimum Hyper Polish or Polish II as ski2 recommended.

Anything else?
 
zmcgovern45 said:
Glad to see you've made your way over here from the Club Lexus forums...

As already mentioned, I would not attempt to install a coating in the conditions you have described.

Also, I would not recommend 3M products be used for polishing prior to coating as I have been told by several trusted sources that they have seen adverse effects when using a coating after using 3M polish. Also, you will want to use a DA machine for best results IMO.

With that being said, I would recommend the Optimum line of products that are meant to be used with Opti Coat.


Regarding the work needed on a brand new car, it should be treated just like any other car.

First, thoroughly clean and decontaminate the surface. Then properly inspect the condition of the paint and chose your plan of action based on your findings. I have seen plenty of brand new cars that look worse than some 10 year old cars (I'm sure you could see the same if you walk through the dealership showroom).

If you're lucky enough to get a brand new car in near perfect shape, a simple very light polishing with a fine finishing polish may be all that is needed before you apply the coating.
Click to expand...

Thank you for all your guidance at Club Lexus. I had few more questions I wanted to ask the experts. I'd never thought there was so much to detailing a car! :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top