Preserve and maintain the paint on my Dodge Wayfarer '49

Vifa

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Hi,

I read the thread "The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints" and found it so brilliant that I have read it three times by now. I will try this on my own car since the paint is oxidized too.

I have a Dodge Wayfarer Business Coupe from 1949 in original paint that I would like to preserve the best possible way, but I need some advice and guideance on how to wash, polish and maintain the car - I hope your guys can direct me the right way with tips, tricks and other good suggestions on how to preserve and maintain the paint on my car.

Waterless wash
I have tried different products and found the Meguiars' "Quick Detailer" good, but I would be interested in hearing comments and experience from others on the "Ultimate Quick Detailer" and "Ultimate Wash & Wax Anywhere" from Meguiars, for a waterless wash.

Polish
After reading the thread by Mike Phillips on how to remove oxidized paint I have been very keen to try this myself. I was looking at Meguiars webpage today and found another product called ColorX. The description says it will "restore deep color and gloss from your oxidized or contaminated paint finish".
How does this product compare to Meguiars' #7 ?


As you can tell from the pictures the paint is very thin on the fenders, but I would like to keep it that way as I think the condition of the car match a car of that age that has been well cared for over the years.

I would like to hear from others on how they would maintain a car in this condition, as it has been quite a jungle for me since I bought the car.


Best Regards
Vifa
 
If you want to just get rid of oxidation, you just need a paint cleaner.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/28519-benefits-light-paint-cleaner-cleansing-lotion-pre-wax-cleaner.html

You have a lot of choices and many available locally. They are mostly chemical cleaners.

Once you do this, you can evaluate the true condition of the paint. If you do not want to use an abrasive to fix any issues, there are many glazes and waxes that will make it look very good.

Meg's ColorX and SwirlX are just names for all in one which has some light correcting and wax in one step. ColorX is supposed to be the milder one if you want to go ahead and polish, clean, and seal in one step.
 
If you want to just get rid of oxidation, you just need a paint cleaner.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-featuring-mike-phillips/28519-benefits-light-paint-cleaner-cleansing-lotion-pre-wax-cleaner.html

You have a lot of choices and many available locally. They are mostly chemical cleaners.

Once you do this, you can evaluate the true condition of the paint. If you do not want to use an abrasive to fix any issues, there are many glazes and waxes that will make it look very good.

Meg's ColorX and SwirlX are just names for all in one which has some light correcting and wax in one step. ColorX is supposed to be the milder one if you want to go ahead and polish, clean, and seal in one step.

I thought #7 was categorized as a paint cleaner too but without any abrasive effect ?
Does ColorX, ScratchX or SwirlX from Meguiars have any abrasive effect ? I know from Mike Phillips' above mentioned article that #7 has not. So what would you say the difference between these products and #7 is ?
 
Mike P. says ColorX has both abrasives and cleaners and SwirlX has abrasives. I do not know about #7.
 
I thought #7 was categorized as a paint cleaner too but without any abrasive effect ?

#7 is a pure polish

It's NOTHING like a cleaner/wax or a polish or a paint cleaner.



Where are you at with this project?

If I thought these other products were the right products to restore antique, single stage paint I would have been sharing them for the past 20+ years instead of #7 and I would have shown them in the article instead of #7 but I didn't and I didn't for a reason.


:dunno:
 
Hi Mike,

Thank you for your reply.

I haven't had much time lately to work on the car due to my job, but I began last month. This is what I have done until now:
I got Meguairs Wash & Wax and washed down the whole car. Then moved on to the clay used together with Meguiars Quick Detailer on the whole car.
Then I gave the car the "saturation application" with Meguiars #7 and waited until the next day to remove it. Actually I waited more than 24 hours, and I found it quite hard to get it off again as the #7 was dried out. As I remember from your thread a little elbowgrease was part of the craftmanship, so I guess it is normal for the #7 to dry out this much.

From the results so far I guess the car needs more applications before I am satisfired. As you can see at the attached picture there are some small light stains in the paint. I have these small stains more than one place on the car. A washing shampoo I used earlier has caused these stains. I am happy to now have found Meguairs Wash & Wax which is what I have been looking for in years.

Nevertheless, I believe these small stains to reflect the true colour of the car. I did a test some time ago to be sure I could get rid of them. I used Meguiars M80 Speed Glaze and managed to quite easily remove them. But I would never use a compound on my car, as the paint is so thin certain places that it would do more harm than anything else.

That is why I was quite happy when I found your thread about removing oxidation on antique single stage paints.

I hope the #7 will do the magic and remove the stains.
 
I found it quite hard to get it off again as the #7 was dried out. As I remember from your thread a little elbowgrease was part of the craftmanship, so I guess it is normal for the #7 to dry out this much.

Yes, it is quite a work out removing the dried up polish. More so on the first application if you have some built up oxidation as you are battling the oxidation stuck to the paint also.

Hopefully it will help remove your spots too.
 
Hi Mike,

I found time to work on the car again :D
I have the Meguiars Dual Action Polisher - can I use it together with #7 ?
Or would you recommend to do it by hand ?
 
I ended up leaving #7 on for a little longer as well since my schedule changed. I used a waterless wash mix to help remove the dried sections. I would apply M#7 by hand. Also I would top a section with a basic wax and see if you're happy with it, before moving on to anything that has abrasives.
 
i would keep adding no. 7 to the paint if it is drying up that means the paint is soaking up the oils in the polis. it didn't take 24 hrs for it to get that way. it could take several apps. to get the oils back into the paint. the terry cloth towel will help get of the dried polish off as you put more on. jonathan
 
Hi Mike,

I found time to work on the car again :D


I have the Meguiars Dual Action Polisher - can I use it together with #7 ?

For maintenance polishing AFTER you do the rub-out by hand.


Or would you recommend to do it by hand ?

Just by coincidence, another forum asked about this same topic and you can read my answer here,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...tique-single-stage-paints-21.html#post1289835


The answer is... I would personally rub this old paint out by hand and I recommend to rub it out by hand. I explain why in my reply in the link above.

:)
 
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