Pressure washer

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animescreen

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So I’m not sure what is stripping my quick spray but I know this doesn’t last too long (heard couple weeks) meguiars quick wax spray ( doing this until I decon thoroughly and white wax it.

But I’m thinking maybe it’s my pressure washer. Specifically rinsing. I don’t do like laser pointer style but more wide band and about 2 to 3 feet and always moving it around. Could this be culprit?

I’ll be using Meguirs white wax as I have white car and would suck that my wax job will be stripped from my pressure washer


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How do you wash your car?
Products that are used and tools for the whole washing to the drying. As I don't think it's a problem that your PW would strip the LSP you use. Is there any prep work done before the UQW was applyied? And do you ad after the wash or use it as a drying aid.

The thing that could be affecting the UQW would be if you right after it's applyied you check the water behavior by spraying water on it. If you wash late at the evening and dew comes in it can sometimes mess with some LSP. Have experience this with Ultima Paint Guard Plus one time.
 
every sat or sunday, I wash this way. Pressure rinse (not even that much pressure very wide nozzle), foam gun, 2 bucket method. Then do like large drying towel then use mf towel to dry remainder. Acutally also do like a leaf blower to dry first.

Then i'll do like rinseless or waterless wash 1-2x depending on dirtyness. I use

McKee's 37 MK37-580 N-914 Rinseless Waterless Wash 16 Fluid_Ounces
Adam's Car Wash Shampoo - pH Neutral Soap Formula For Safe, Spot Free Cleaning -
Chemical Guys CWS20816 Watermelon Snow Foam Cleanser (16 oz), 16. Fluid_Ounces

just not sure why after like one week it seems stripped. lol Was told it last like 2 weeks or so for quick wax spray. I'll have to check what happens on the white wax from meguiar and see if it strips.. maybe it's stronger.

Good way to test if wax is on it still is touch? like feels like butter?
 
Feel and even water behavior isn't always a good indicator of whether the wax is still there. The condition of the paint and particulates in the air (dust, pollen, etc) can make it feel differently than you expect.

Two weeks of durability for UQW isn't a guarantee. Washing process and the environment like heat and rain will have an impact on how long it will last. I used UQW for a long time and really liked it, but I would never count on it as the only thing to protect my vehicles. I used it simply as a post-wash shine boost and knew it would only last a week or two at best.
 
If I where you I would just reapply your UQW every week after your bucket wash.
 
animescreen said:
every sat or sunday, I wash this way. Pressure rinse (not even that much pressure very wide nozzle), foam gun, 2 bucket method. Then do like large drying towel then use mf towel to dry remainder. Acutally also do like a leaf blower to dry first.

Then i'll do like rinseless or waterless wash 1-2x depending on dirtyness. I use

McKee's 37 MK37-580 N-914 Rinseless Waterless Wash 16 Fluid_Ounces
Adam's Car Wash Shampoo - pH Neutral Soap Formula For Safe, Spot Free Cleaning -
Chemical Guys CWS20816 Watermelon Snow Foam Cleanser (16 oz), 16. Fluid_Ounces

just not sure why after like one week it seems stripped. lol Was told it last like 2 weeks or so for quick wax spray. I'll have to check what happens on the white wax from meguiar and see if it strips.. maybe it's stronger.

Good way to test if wax is on it still is touch? like feels like butter?
Click to expand...

As mentioned above it's not always feels or even looks like it's wax still left on the paint. If you have some kind of contaminants left on the paint and wax over it you can both feel roughness and it could minimize the longevity from it too. So a thorough prep work has a great way to know that your LSP can last as expected. Then you can get the paint contaminant after the wax job and the feeling goes away.

But since you are going to be claying and maybe polish or hand polish with the White Wax which IIRC is a kind mild cleaner wax. You will be fine with when you have done the wax job. You can apply over with the UQW until you do the wax job without any problems. It's useally has a very very thin layer of the siloxane it has in it as it's actually not has any real organic wax in it other than the name of wax. The products you use for your washes should not be masking the water behavior from either the UQW or White Wax. And if you dilute it as recommended it will not wear down it either. Cause if you dilute it too strong it can have impact on the LSP you have on your paint. IIRC in rare cases the Honeydew Snow Foams glossenhancers can impact on the LSPs water behavior as in degrade it. But that's mostly noticed on very hydrophobic surfaces as a ceramic coating protection has. And builds up during months of use and not something noticed after a wash or 2 and some don't have any problems with at all. So your products will be fine with the White Wax I think.
 
I'd say you're going way overboard on the washing. If I'm reading your post correctly you pressure rinse,foam cannon,2 bucket wash and a rinseless wash? That's not a typical wash regiment and unnecessary. Whenever you touch the paint there's abrasion that happens and can remove protection, also you can refresh the spray wax after the wash.
 
vobro said:
I'd say you're going way overboard on the washing. If I'm reading your post correctly you pressure rinse,foam cannon,2 bucket wash and a rinseless wash? That's not a typical wash regiment and unnecessary. Whenever you touch the paint there's abrasion that happens and can remove protection, also you can refresh the spray wax after the wash.
Click to expand...

No I meant I do rinseless separate day depending on how much I drive and gets dirty but not included in my sat or Sunday wash regime


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SWETM said:
As mentioned above it's not always feels or even looks like it's wax still left on the paint. If you have some kind of contaminants left on the paint and wax over it you can both feel roughness and it could minimize the longevity from it too. So a thorough prep work has a great way to know that your LSP can last as expected. Then you can get the paint contaminant after the wax job and the feeling goes away.

But since you are going to be claying and maybe polish or hand polish with the White Wax which IIRC is a kind mild cleaner wax. You will be fine with when you have done the wax job. You can apply over with the UQW until you do the wax job without any problems. It's useally has a very very thin layer of the siloxane it has in it as it's actually not has any real organic wax in it other than the name of wax. The products you use for your washes should not be masking the water behavior from either the UQW or White Wax. And if you dilute it as recommended it will not wear down it either. Cause if you dilute it too strong it can have impact on the LSP you have on your paint. IIRC in rare cases the Honeydew Snow Foams glossenhancers can impact on the LSPs water behavior as in degrade it. But that's mostly noticed on very hydrophobic surfaces as a ceramic coating protection has. And builds up during months of use and not something noticed after a wash or 2 and some don't have any problems with at all. So your products will be fine with the White Wax I think.
Click to expand...

I think the culprit might be not diluting it too much . The rinsless wash I seem to put too much in the bottle and the foam and bucket I probally do as well ( just haven’t picked up measuring spoons etc for right dilution) do you think this is the reason it strips faster?

Also what is iirc and lsp :)




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If I Remember Correctly IIRC and LSP Last Step Protection I think LOL.

Some car soap can be more aggressive when diluted to strong. As the one I use Carpro Reset car soap is when diluted to strong harsh on some waxes and sealants. There are 2 things when you dilute a car soap or prewash foam to strong. First it can desolve the protection and second it can mask it as the car soap residue won't rinse off free. So I at least try to dilute it as near as the manufactures recommendations. A little off would not be a hughe problem but maybe in the longrun. But with the more extreme of low car soap amounts to water dilutions it can be easy to dilute it as double or more if not measured or you have used it a lot and got a sense of how much is needed. I have a car soap that you dilute 1:1900 and that you don't measure with glugg glugg measure LOL. Even Carpro Reset car soap 1:500 and Meguiars Hyper Wash 1:400 is hard to get the right dilution if you don't measure it.

But you mentioned that you do rinseless or waterless washes in between the washes on the weekend with the 2bm. And as mentioned above it's also the aggitations when washing that is almost the most aggressive on the LSP. So then you can expect to apply the LSP more often if washing more than once a week. If you look where they are doing testing on Youtube with the chemical torture testing on different LSP. Apex Detailing Channel on Youtube does this and when he sees that the spray on let it dwell and rinse off don't do much of an impact on the LSP he testing. He use just a mf towel to lightly swipe over the panel and with the same cleaner he used before. And the results useally on sealants comes right away when he touch wash it instead of just rinse it off. So a touching wash even with a car soap is aggressive on any LSP as in it degrade it little by little. About the range of a week or so of the natuaral degrading of the LSP. So the more you washing than once a week you will wear down the LSP faster than if washed once a week. Then of cause different kind of LSP has different kind of longevity but even a long lasting LSP you can degrade faster than useally. This is of course not so big of a problem if you regualary apply a topper or refresh your base protection with another coat the first you see it degrade in the behavior. So the more you washing the often you need to be applying a protection on the paint. If you washing more than once a week LOL. Man am I keep repeating myself LOL.

And an extra tips don't ever use the 0 degree nozzle tip or a turbo nozzle tip on your car. It will be cutting through the paint if too close. I have a quite strong PW and with a 15 degree nozzle tip I hold it a foot away from the vehical and can go a little closer than that but not much. So if you have a 40 degree nozzle tip you would need to be have it a inch or 2 to be doing any possible damage. It's quite safe to use a PW if you use some common sense. I just do a touchless wash with a prewash foam and PW clean rinsing it off and blowdry and done between the washes and it's much less harsh than if I where rinseless or waterless washing. Actually during the summer I can get away with touchless washing every week or so and every 3-4 wash I do a 2bm wash.
 
SWETM said it.

I use a >Measure Master Graduated Cylinder< to measure soaps and dilutions. Really makes a difference in consistent results.
It will help save money using more precise amounts.
 
SWETM said:
If I Remember Correctly IIRC and LSP Last Step Protection I think LOL.

Some car soap can be more aggressive when diluted to strong. As the one I use Carpro Reset car soap is when diluted to strong harsh on some waxes and sealants. There are 2 things when you dilute a car soap or prewash foam to strong. First it can desolve the protection and second it can mask it as the car soap residue won't rinse off free. So I at least try to dilute it as near as the manufactures recommendations. A little off would not be a hughe problem but maybe in the longrun. But with the more extreme of low car soap amounts to water dilutions it can be easy to dilute it as double or more if not measured or you have used it a lot and got a sense of how much is needed. I have a car soap that you dilute 1:1900 and that you don't measure with glugg glugg measure LOL. Even Carpro Reset car soap 1:500 and Meguiars Hyper Wash 1:400 is hard to get the right dilution if you don't measure it.

But you mentioned that you do rinseless or waterless washes in between the washes on the weekend with the 2bm. And as mentioned above it's also the aggitations when washing that is almost the most aggressive on the LSP. So then you can expect to apply the LSP more often if washing more than once a week. If you look where they are doing testing on Youtube with the chemical torture testing on different LSP. Apex Detailing Channel on Youtube does this and when he sees that the spray on let it dwell and rinse off don't do much of an impact on the LSP he testing. He use just a mf towel to lightly swipe over the panel and with the same cleaner he used before. And the results useally on sealants comes right away when he touch wash it instead of just rinse it off. So a touching wash even with a car soap is aggressive on any LSP as in it degrade it little by little. About the range of a week or so of the natuaral degrading of the LSP. So the more you washing than once a week you will wear down the LSP faster than if washed once a week. Then of cause different kind of LSP has different kind of longevity but even a long lasting LSP you can degrade faster than useally. This is of course not so big of a problem if you regualary apply a topper or refresh your base protection with another coat the first you see it degrade in the behavior. So the more you washing the often you need to be applying a protection on the paint. If you washing more than once a week LOL. Man am I keep repeating myself LOL.

And an extra tips don't ever use the 0 degree nozzle tip or a turbo nozzle tip on your car. It will be cutting through the paint if too close. I have a quite strong PW and with a 15 degree nozzle tip I hold it a foot away from the vehical and can go a little closer than that but not much. So if you have a 40 degree nozzle tip you would need to be have it a inch or 2 to be doing any possible damage. It's quite safe to use a PW if you use some common sense. I just do a touchless wash with a prewash foam and PW clean rinsing it off and blowdry and done between the washes and it's much less harsh than if I where rinseless or waterless washing. Actually during the summer I can get away with touchless washing every week or so and every 3-4 wash I do a 2bm wash.
Click to expand...



Guessing glug glug method equates to an ounce..lol I'm thinking of going towards PW and blowdrying with machine. Just the pw is so loud neighbors will probally not like it too much lol.. But who cares, not hurting anyone lol. I"m guessing touchless will insure wax won't fall off lol.. Well guess i have to keep testing how long it last and monitor.. Main thing is to always have sealant.

Good indicator to know if sealant needs reapply is touch right.. Like washing a cup with dawn soap from oil dish will yield in those squeak sound lol
 
spazzz said:
SWETM said it.

I use a >Measure Master Graduated Cylinder< to measure soaps and dilutions. Really makes a difference in consistent results.
It will help save money using more precise amounts.
Click to expand...

thanks i just got that now

i guess i over diluted for two reasons. Thought if i added more, I'll be doing more "cleansing" and the dilution seemed so week but guess have to follow directions lol. The rinseless wash i seems so diluted It seems like it's just water lol but im sure its enough lubricated and cleansing to get the job done.
 
I don't know but if I get the feel when it comes to car soap properly diluted seems to be not so lubricated and not the cleaning ability from it. To me that's not a good car soap. Rinseless Wash and waterless washes I have non experience with them. But since you often dilute a rinseless wash to a waterless wash too. I don't think that's such a problem that you can get with a car soap.

I useally goes from after a wash when rinsing it off and if the water behavior is getting degraded performance. It's time to either reapply the LSP I have on or top it up with something to get a little longer time before I need to be reapplying it. This is not a certain way to tell if the LSP is getting done from protecting the paint. The hydrophobic layer can only be degraded on some LSP but it's still there. Some LSP has a darkening effect that you can see more if you apply the LSP again on a little spot if it's darkening effect is showing more than on the old LSP it's almost gone. But for me it's just easier to go with the water behavior as both beading and sheeting from it if it's needs reapplication or topped up.
 
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