Problem encountered with coating

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Chrisong

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Hi everyone I am encountering some problem with my coating.

Did my steps according
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Coating

Skipped the polishing part as my car is new and not much swirl marks.

So now I noticed there are like water marks alike in the coating under the sun. Tried using mf towl to bluff off but doesn't seem to do anything. So I presume the marks are in the coating itself and not on the surface.

Any remedies I can try first?

TIA



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View attachment 67404
 
Car Pro makes a water spot remover (Spotless) that will not remove their ceramic coating.
 
Not sure if it will work. Seems to be embedded within the coating itself..
 
If it’s under the coating then your only option is to polish and if necessary, compound. That will remove the coating and water spots. Then coat again.
 
I first might ask this question:

After the coating was applied, did the vehicle then sit outside overnight, and that what we see is possibly the effects of dew that formed on the panels overnight?

Is such spotting also on side vertical panels, or just the hood and horizontal surfaces?

About the only other thing that comes to mind, was that the surface was not properly prepped, and that the coating didn't properly bond to the paint?

You mention only 3 processes, wash, clay, coat.

Did you come behind after that Claying Process with a surface prep product? Such as for instance Carpro Eraser? Or a diluted IPA wipedown? This should've been done.

Clay Lubes are basically just a detailing spray is all. There's lubricants in such products, and the lubricant might be in many cases simply silicones.

That in comparison, it would be like a person pulling into a Paint-Body Shop with his vehicle, start spraying away on his ride with a detailer spray with silicones in it, and next thing you know, the next umpteen paint jobs coming out of that shop all have fisheye damage in the paint.

Perhaps fill us in with some further details, some here might have a better answer for you to properly correct this issue.
Mark
 
May we ask what coating was used? Not that this may make a difference, but....
 
MarkD51 said:
Did you come behind after that Claying Process with a surface prep product? Such as for instance Carpro Eraser? Or a diluted IPA wipedown? This should've been done.

Clay Lubes are basically just a detailing spray is all. There's lubricants in such products, and the lubricant might be in many cases simply silicones.
Mark
Click to expand...

This^^
 
I am new to detailing so I tried coating on the hood first.

Product used was Kisho Coating. A Japanese brand. Not sure if u guys heard of it.

Oh man. I did not do a surface prep with any product.

Car was sitted outside but I guess there wasn't any dew as in the morning when I check the car was dry. Unless the few has already dried up.

So lets say these marks are in the surface supposed by mf cloth shd be able to bluff off? My concern is probably is there any way to check if these marks are on top of the coating? Or inside the coating?

Thanks guys! Mine is a pretty new car so it's kinda getting me worried.
 
Highly doubt a towel will remove that...probably gonna need to polish it out. It’s not a big deal though.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
That is comforting to hear. At least I know my paint is unaffected.

I kinda of a newbie. So please bear with me and guide me through the process.

So next step I should try to polish the coating off using a compound?
 
Get yourself a polisher and pass then recoat with the proper prep.
 
OK, I'll try to help some more here, and give some ideas.

You're a new member here, but don't know how far along you are into the world of auto detailing?

OK you seasoned Autogeek Members, let me ask this question of you all.

Let's for say this new member has nothing in the way of power tools, such as a D/A Polisher.

I'm uncertain of just how durable this Coating that's mentioned was used, but here's the question:

Can a Polish and/or Liquid Compound be used by hand to then effectively remove the coating back to bare paint?

Not sure, but it sounded like this member only coated the Hood, is this correct?

If so, then this member might not be in for a nightmarish Polish process since it may be just the Hood that needs addressing.

After saying all this, and should you be able to succeed with removing these spots by hand polishing, then for sure if you choose to continue to try coating your vehicle, prior to coating do use yourself some sort of prep product beforehand.

One simple way that some use, is to mix up a bottle of diluted Rubbing Alcohol, available from any pharmacy-drugstore.

What's a safe ratio folks, let's say if he uses 70% Isopropyl Alcohol, mixing 1 part Alcohol, and 5 parts water? Is that about right?

If you choose to do such a prep, make sure you have a good number of MF Towels when wiping down all Body Panels. 4-6 towels should be enough I would think. Spray each panel then wipe off fully. Make sure everything is completely dry before you coat.
 
I looked up this particular product brand, Kisho, and watched a video on their website for their Ceramic Coating Application.

It looks very similar to a Ceramic Coating product many of us here are familiar with, Carpro CQuartz.

Same identical procedures used, wash, clay, polish if needed, then in their video they do use what they call a "Silicone Remover" prior to applying the Coating. This is paramount and highly important!

They do show an alternative prep product, their own shampoo, which no doubt is free of any waxes, sealants, silicones and shine enhancers.

After the Coating has been applied, and at some point later, I note that a sprayable product is used over-on top of the coating.

Again, no doubt very much identical to Carpro's suggestions, in which Carpro makes their own spray sealer product called "Reload". This spray-on product used after is very likely such a sacrificial protectant to temporarily protect the Paint Coating until it is fully cured. Which by the way with some of these Coatings like Carpro CQuartz can take up to a full week.

This Spray protectant most likely protects the applied Coating against water spotting during the final cure time.
 
MarkD51 said:
I first might ask this question:

After the coating was applied, did the vehicle then sit outside overnight, and that what we see is possibly the effects of dew that formed on the panels overnight?

Is such spotting also on side vertical panels, or just the hood and horizontal surfaces?

About the only other thing that comes to mind, was that the surface was not properly prepped, and that the coating didn't properly bond to the paint?

You mention only 3 processes, wash, clay, coat.

Did you come behind after that Claying Process with a surface prep product? Such as for instance Carpro Eraser? Or a diluted IPA wipedown? This should've been done.

Clay Lubes are basically just a detailing spray is all. There's lubricants in such products, and the lubricant might be in many cases simply silicones.

That in comparison, it would be like a person pulling into a Paint-Body Shop with his vehicle, start spraying away on his ride with a detailer spray with silicones in it, and next thing you know, the next umpteen paint jobs coming out of that shop all have fisheye damage in the paint.

Perhaps fill us in with some further details, some here might have a better answer for you to properly correct this issue.
Mark
Click to expand...

This happened to me when I used Optimum Gloss Coat. most likely nothing to do with the coating, but I was using it in the fall, and by early evening when I went to apply the coating I started to see cloudy spots underneath it. I attributed it to the dropping temps causing condensation. Hard to see on my white truck, until it was too late, of course.

Something similar happened to me when I went to use 22PLE HPC. I had not yet coated the truck, but using LED lighting I could see intermittent spots like this. IPA and Eraser didnt touch them. I ended up going at it with some PowerClean diluted 4:1, then an IPA and Eraser wipedown to make sure the PowerClean was gone.
 
Yeah, prep is KEY

I would do clay towel/mit/bar to start, after or during the wash, then chemical decon, rinse and then start with a test section for polish. You want EVERYTHING as perfect as possible BEFORE applying the paint coating. There's lots of info here, a well as many helpful members to help you along and remember, there are no "dumb" questions, ask away, we're to help!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Would using Meguiar Ultimate Compound be a good start to try to remove the coating?
 
Another quick qns. Shd I choose to ignore, as the coating wear off the water marks should disappear as well?
 
I have used Kisho and they have two coatings. One is water activated and one is not. The water activated one is super hard. If you used this one it will be very difficult to remove. I hope you have a Microfiber Cutting Pad with the Megs Compound. I used Menzerma FG 400 with a Meguires microfiber cutting pad before the Kisho fully cured and it was hard to remove.

If you used the non-water activated coating you should have no problem removing it. It is similar to CarPro CQuartz.

Did you try the spray that came with the Kisho kit? I doubt it will help, but it won’t hurt to try.

It must have gotten rained on before it cured or the spots are under the coating and you did not notice them before coating.

I would say Kisho is a professional only coating, from my experience.
 
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