iceman978
New member
- Aug 6, 2011
- 54
- 0
Pre-Wax Preparation
I washed my 2006 Honda Accord using the following: Two bucket method with grit guards, boar’s hair brush, bone sponge and Chemical Guys Citrus Wash at the higher dilution for removing the old wax. I then dried the car using the Guzzler towels. I pulled the car into the garage and did the plastic bag test to check the condition of the paint. Fortunately, I had previously waxed the car just a couple short months before and so no claying or correction was needed this time. A quick note here worth mentioning: I purchased the car used in 2009. At the time I purchased it, the car had some minor paint defects most of which I was able to correct. There are some paint chips/bug etchings on the nose/hood/door areas that I had intended to color chip, but I never got around to it. This is a daily driver which commutes about four hundred miles a week and sees it’s share of dings in parking lots and rocks on the highway. Long story short, I am no longer planning to color chip the rock dings as I will likely be trading the car in within the next year to purchase a new one. I’ve just come to accept that some defects aren’t worth fixing on a car of this age/mileage.
I taped off the body lines and trim using Scotch blue painters tape and then applied Meguiar’s show car glaze to each of the body panels using my Porter Cable 7462 DA. I then buffed it off using the Gold Plush microfiber towels. I then applied a coat of Meguiar’s Synthetic Sealant 2.0 to each of the body panels using the DA and buffed it off with more clean Gold Plush Microfiber towels.
Wax Application
I allowed the Meguiar’s Synthetic Sealant to cure for 24 hours in the garage before applying the wax. A quick note here: there are no application instructions on the Scholl vintage wax can. Instead, the can directs you to their website which has all of the technical specifications, written application instructions and a video of how to apply it. I reviewed the instructions and the video and then moved on to applying it to the car. I applied the wax by hand using a small, round, foam applicator. The wax application was very smooth and easy given the texture of the wax. An interesting note here: The wax hazed very quickly and was ready for buffing minutes after application. Fortunately, I expected this and did the car in sections; applying the wax and then buffing with Gold Plush microfiber towels as I went. The wax was removed easily, not much effort required.
Final Thoughts
My normal routine for the Honda is pretty much the same as detailed above, but my LSP is Detailer’s Pro Max Wax. I’ve been extremely satisfied with the results I have gotten with that combination and was eager to see how the Scholl Vintage compared to it. The Scholl Vintage is certainly an easy wax to apply and work with, but I had expected more of a deep shine. I could definitely tell that the car had been freshly waxed, but I didn’t see much difference between the Scholl and the Max Wax results. If anything I think the MaxWax had a deeper shine and looked better. Water beading was evident on the surfaces as expected and the car feels smooth and slippery to the touch. There is definitely some shine to the car panels, but not as much as I had hopped for. I’ll be watching the durability of the Scholl over the next few months to see how it compares in that category. Overall, I think I would have to say that based on price (Scholl $59/DP Max Wax $39) I’ll stick with Max Wax.
A quick note: I took 16 pictures before, during and after the detail. Unfortunately, my memory card and/or camera went bad on me sometime during or after the detail and I was only able to recover a few of the photos. The camera and card now aren't working properly and may have gotten wet during the detailing process which may have contributed to it as there does appear to be some water on the lens in one of the photos. The first photo is prior to the detailing process, the others are after everything was done. Now I'm off to search for a new camera and memory card....
I washed my 2006 Honda Accord using the following: Two bucket method with grit guards, boar’s hair brush, bone sponge and Chemical Guys Citrus Wash at the higher dilution for removing the old wax. I then dried the car using the Guzzler towels. I pulled the car into the garage and did the plastic bag test to check the condition of the paint. Fortunately, I had previously waxed the car just a couple short months before and so no claying or correction was needed this time. A quick note here worth mentioning: I purchased the car used in 2009. At the time I purchased it, the car had some minor paint defects most of which I was able to correct. There are some paint chips/bug etchings on the nose/hood/door areas that I had intended to color chip, but I never got around to it. This is a daily driver which commutes about four hundred miles a week and sees it’s share of dings in parking lots and rocks on the highway. Long story short, I am no longer planning to color chip the rock dings as I will likely be trading the car in within the next year to purchase a new one. I’ve just come to accept that some defects aren’t worth fixing on a car of this age/mileage.
I taped off the body lines and trim using Scotch blue painters tape and then applied Meguiar’s show car glaze to each of the body panels using my Porter Cable 7462 DA. I then buffed it off using the Gold Plush microfiber towels. I then applied a coat of Meguiar’s Synthetic Sealant 2.0 to each of the body panels using the DA and buffed it off with more clean Gold Plush Microfiber towels.
Wax Application
I allowed the Meguiar’s Synthetic Sealant to cure for 24 hours in the garage before applying the wax. A quick note here: there are no application instructions on the Scholl vintage wax can. Instead, the can directs you to their website which has all of the technical specifications, written application instructions and a video of how to apply it. I reviewed the instructions and the video and then moved on to applying it to the car. I applied the wax by hand using a small, round, foam applicator. The wax application was very smooth and easy given the texture of the wax. An interesting note here: The wax hazed very quickly and was ready for buffing minutes after application. Fortunately, I expected this and did the car in sections; applying the wax and then buffing with Gold Plush microfiber towels as I went. The wax was removed easily, not much effort required.
Final Thoughts
My normal routine for the Honda is pretty much the same as detailed above, but my LSP is Detailer’s Pro Max Wax. I’ve been extremely satisfied with the results I have gotten with that combination and was eager to see how the Scholl Vintage compared to it. The Scholl Vintage is certainly an easy wax to apply and work with, but I had expected more of a deep shine. I could definitely tell that the car had been freshly waxed, but I didn’t see much difference between the Scholl and the Max Wax results. If anything I think the MaxWax had a deeper shine and looked better. Water beading was evident on the surfaces as expected and the car feels smooth and slippery to the touch. There is definitely some shine to the car panels, but not as much as I had hopped for. I’ll be watching the durability of the Scholl over the next few months to see how it compares in that category. Overall, I think I would have to say that based on price (Scholl $59/DP Max Wax $39) I’ll stick with Max Wax.
A quick note: I took 16 pictures before, during and after the detail. Unfortunately, my memory card and/or camera went bad on me sometime during or after the detail and I was only able to recover a few of the photos. The camera and card now aren't working properly and may have gotten wet during the detailing process which may have contributed to it as there does appear to be some water on the lens in one of the photos. The first photo is prior to the detailing process, the others are after everything was done. Now I'm off to search for a new camera and memory card....