Products that allow you to work forward?

steelwindmachine said:
okay, so in general summation speaking for the mainstay of compounds & polishes unless otherwise stated in their instructions, you need to wipe off the residue before applying another, different product.
Click to expand...

Even Optimum in their instructions tells you to wipe off the residue.
 
The downfall with Optimum's Hyper Compound and leaving the residue, is that you cannot tell how you did on defect removal. I know you test spot, it still is like you are hoping it turned out well and them moving on to OPT Hyper Polish. It does save time though and after a test spot doing 6 passes over some hard Talon paint, I dug in and finished the hood in 15-20 minutes. I then waxed and sealed the hood and it looks great, minus the fact of that hood had deep enough scratches for wet-sanding.


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InnovativeAutoDetail said:
The downfall with Optimum's Hyper Compound and leaving the residue, is that you cannot tell how you did on defect removal. I know you test spot, it still is like you are hoping it turned out well and them moving on to OPT Hyper Polish. It does save time though and after a test spot doing 6 passes over some hard Talon paint, I dug in and finished the hood in 15-20 minutes. I then waxed and sealed the hood and it looks great, minus the fact of that hood had deep enough scratches for wet-sanding.







Ben Bailey - Owner, Innovative Auto Detailing in Shreveport, Bossier City, and Haughton, Louisiana. [email protected] / www.innovativeautodetailing.com / 864-398-7167
Active Duty USAF Meteorologist
#1312 2013 Grabber Blue Boss 302/1998 Mustang GT
Business: 2016 Transit Connect 2.5L LWB XL
Click to expand...
 
I'm not sure I am getting the point here.

You apply a compound or polish and remove the residue.

You clean before any LSP.

What is the question?
 
Crispy said:
I'm not sure I am getting the point here.

You apply a compound or polish and remove the residue.

You clean before any LSP.

What is the question?
Click to expand...

Optimum states you do not have to remove OPT Hyper Compound residue before you polish with OPT Hyper Polish as they are part of the "Optimum Synergy," as in that they work together.


Ben Bailey - Owner, Innovative Auto Detailing in Shreveport, Bossier City, and Haughton, Louisiana. [email protected] / www.innovativeautodetailing.com / 864-398-7167
Active Duty USAF Meteorologist
#1312 2013 Grabber Blue Boss 302/1998 Mustang GT
Business: 2016 Transit Connect 2.5L LWB XL
 
OK, I'm lost. Is he asking about applying a compound/polish and going to the next step without removing the compound/polish or is he talking about polishing, removing the residue then an IPA wipe down to remove the "oils" before continuing?
 
my inquiry was about whether or not there were any compound or polish products that would allow you to apply one and then apply the next without having to wipe off residue. It seems that other than the Opt Hyper products, that no, for compound to polish and to most LSPs, you need to wipe in between.
 
Don M said:
OK, I'm lost. Is he asking about applying a compound/polish and going to the next step without removing the compound/polish or is he talking about polishing, removing the residue then an IPA wipe down to remove the "oils" before continuing?
Click to expand...

For a long time, there have been some step-saving ideas coming out of the Optimum camp. I remember years and years ago Scottwax talking about polishing with the early versions of the Optimum polishes, and wiping off the residue with OCW, in a "wipe and wax".

Today, Yvan is pushing the same kind of thing...compounding and then polishing right over the compound residue without removing it first, then removing the polish residue with OCW (at least I think that's what's being advocated). I don't really think it's that much heresy, I mean modern compounds are capable of pretty good finishes, so it's not like having rocks-in-a-bottle residue left on there, and the base in the Optimum polishes does let you polish down until there's basically nothing left, without dry buffing. Plus, this is also promoted for production detailing environments (Yvan owns a couple of production shops), not for your garage queen.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
For a long time, there have been some step-saving ideas coming out of the Optimum camp. I remember years and years ago Scottwax talking about polishing with the early versions of the Optimum polishes, and wiping off the residue with OCW, in a "wipe and wax".

Today, Yvan is pushing the same kind of thing...compounding and then polishing right over the compound residue without removing it first, then removing the polish residue with OCW (at least I think that's what's being advocated). I don't really think it's that much heresy, I mean modern compounds are capable of pretty good finishes, so it's not like having rocks-in-a-bottle residue left on there, and the base in the Optimum polishes does let you polish down until there's basically nothing left, without dry buffing. Plus, this is also promoted for production detailing environments (Yvan owns a couple of production shops), not for your garage queen.
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OK, that clears it up. My old boss used to do the same thing with Meguiar's products (wax over polish over compound)
 
The most synergy you get to a product now is not having to do an ipa wipe down before your lsp. Optimum makes some really good products but it's just not practical to not wipe off and inspect the paint to see if you actually removed the defects out. Test spots and then going by thst combo is great until you have a car that's been repainted.
 
WillSports3 said:
Optimum makes some really good products but it's just not practical to not wipe off and inspect the paint to see if you actually removed the defects out.
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I disagree, in a production environment does it matter? When the customer usually cares more about the interior than the exterior? They only will care if it's shiny, not if you removed the defects...because they don't know a swirl from a squirrel.

The process is not for us OCD people or ones working on high end cars/customers who are expecting full defect removal.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I disagree, in a production environment does it matter? When the customer usually cares more about the interior than the exterior? They only will care if it's shiny, not if you removed the defects...because they don't know a swirl from a squirrel.

The process is not for us OCD people or ones working on high end cars/customers who are expecting full defect removal.
Click to expand...

The last sentence is true as all get out, I almost want to wet-sand everything and do a full correction to be perfect on all the vehicles I do haha.


Ben Bailey - Owner, Innovative Auto Detailing in Shreveport, Bossier City, and Haughton, Louisiana. [email protected] / www.innovativeautodetailing.com / 864-398-7167
Active Duty USAF Meteorologist
#1312 2013 Grabber Blue Boss 302/1998 Mustang GT
Business: 2016 Transit Connect 2.5L LWB XL
 
Pretty sure you do wipe off with IPA still when doing opti coat. Opti seal is the last step you go through in their synergy. Wash. Clay. Compound. Polish. Seal. Wax. But you wipe off polish before coating.


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steelwindmachine said:
okay, so in general summation speaking
for the mainstay of compounds & polishes
unless otherwise stated in their instructions,
you need to wipe off the residue before
applying another, different product.
Click to expand...
Notes from my experience:

1.) There's a big difference between
(a) wiping-off/removing Compound's &
Polishes' residues from the buffing steps...
and (b) making sure the panel surfaces are
surgically clean by using a "Panel Wipe".

2.) Compounds/Polishes are, on most
occasions, not supposed to be allowed
to "dry" on the paint---I just go ahead
and remove their residues right after
buffing ~2'X2' area on a panel.

3.) I only use a Panel-Wipe prior to any
LSP application when the manufacturer
recommends to do so.


Eazy-Peazy... :dblthumb2:


Bob
 
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