quartz second coating

[c62008]

Can I apply a second coat of wolfgang ceramic quartz or is there another touch up that would work better. First application over a year old. If appling a second coat what prep do I need to do?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Can I apply a second coat of wolfgang ceramic quartz or is there another touch up that would work better.

First application over a year old.

Has the car been stored in the garage, un-driven in the "world" since you coated it? As in a Garage Queen?

OR

Is this car a daily driver?

Ever driven in the rain?


Because it's been a year, assuming you've been driving the car and thus exposing the coated paint to the world, (dirty world), if it were me? I would re-polish before coating again.

If appling a second coat what prep do I need to do?

Check out the IGL F4 - it's specifically for this application.

IGL Ecoshine Renew F4 - 300gm


This product is NON-abrasive and is simply intended to clean the paint surface or in your case, the coating surface to prep it for your choice of re-application of a coating.

I have not used this product except for a 60 second segment for TV.

I've been WANTING to use it and write a how-to and review article but I have not had the "right" car.

 

[c62008]

mike, its never seen rain, stored all winter covered in a heated garage. have drove it about 20 miles since I ceramic coated it. uber wolfgang. so to re coat it with ceramic do I have to paint prep it? is there something else I can use to further enhance the coating without a second coat of ceramic ? would the new wolfgang sicoating be good.or the mew item profi coating for a second coating?
?

 

[spazzz]

With those miles and storage details, I don't think you need to worry about recoating.

You should be good to go with just the Wolfgang rinseless wash as maintenance and maybe the Uber Si02 silica spray as a drying aid.

 

[c62008]

what is the diference between wolfgang uber ceramic coating and the new profi coating. I coated my vette last year with the uber but am wonderin if profi is better or would it be good for the second coat over the uber? or just another coat of uber? Just trying to get more shine, would a carnuba wax over the uber help? ANd can swirls be buffed after uber has been applied? sorry for the over anal perfectionist thoughts.

 

[spazzz]

Have you put anything on it since coating? if no, panel prep and let it rip with more uber.
I wouldn't do a new over old thing.

Otherwise a light polish would be the way to go and 2 coats with the new profl, if that's what you are feeling.
The only Wolfgang I have experience with is WETS and WGDGPS.
I use UK3 and Gliss for coating.

 

[Coatingsarecrack]

mike, its never seen rain, stored all winter covered in a heated garage. have drove it about 20 miles since I ceramic coated it. uber wolfgang. so to re coat it with ceramic do I have to paint prep it? is there something else I can use to further enhance the coating without a second coat of ceramic ? would the new wolfgang sicoating be good.or the mew item profi coating for a second coating?
?

If only 20 miles the coating should be like new. If looking to get the paint to pop more i would look at a topper. A Sio2 wax would be a good solutiol

Not sold on AG anymore butI really like Polish angel products. Not cheap bit sure is pretty. Check out Cosmic spritz or High Gloss. Their Carnauba Arts like should play well with your coating also


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

mike, its never seen rain, stored all winter covered in a heated garage. have drove it about 20 miles since I ceramic coated it. uber wolfgang.

Wow! Interesting.

Can I ask, what is the car?

so to re coat it with ceramic do I have to paint prep it? is there something else I can use to further enhance the coating without a second coat of ceramic ?

would the new wolfgang sicoating be good.

or the new item profi coating for a second coating?

I kind of agree with Coatingsarecrack,

If only 20 miles the coating should be like new. If looking to get the paint to pop more i would look at a topper.

Wash or wipe the car clean and then get this and use it.


BLACKFIRE SiO2 Spray Sealant review by Mike Phillips


BLACKFIRE SiO2 Spray Sealant

Get a dozen of these,

Storm Gray Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloth


The above would be quick and easy and you could continue to use this approach long into the future.

 

[c62008]

my car is a 2008 corvette in atomic orange paint. What can be done to eliminate swirls after ceramic has been applied? This color seems to have a lot of orange peel, is it in the clear coat? I used all the steps of compounding and swirl removal and paint prep. just wondering if this color is stubborn,

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

my car is a 2008 corvette in atomic orange paint.

I recently did a true "Show Car Detail" to a 2009 in Atomic Orange. As is my style, I shared a TON of info in the write-up.


Review: 3D Paint Coating and 3D One Cutting Compound and Finishing Polish

What can be done to eliminate swirls after ceramic has been applied?

Everyone hates this answer, but here you go...


Re-polish and then re-strip and then re-coat.


See what I wrote in this very similar thread in post #10


Anyone use glaze on a coated car?

This color seems to have a lot of orange peel, is it in the clear coat?

Corvettes and many new cars have a lot of orange peel.

I wish I had a nickel for every time in the last 18 years of answering questions in the forum world someone asked about excessive orange peel in their Corvette.

I used all the steps of compounding and swirl removal and paint prep. just wondering if this color is stubborn,

Like I stated above - in ALL my write-ups I include a lot of DETAILS. Here's just a portion of what I wrote about the 2009 Atomic Orange Corvette in the write-up or review of the 3D Ceramic Paint Coating.

Pay attention to the portions of text I tuned RED.

My comments

I normally write very in-depth reviews that include a lot of photo-documentation that really focuses on the BEFORE condition of the paint and the process. I didn't do that with this detail job because,

A: The paint was in really good condition. It had light contamination that I removed using detailing clay. It also only had light swirls and scratches that were difficult to capture on the bright, metallic orange paint.

B: This detail is what I would call a true show car detail, that is I used a multiple step approach to perfect the paint just like I would if the paint were in horrible condition. The paint on this car is on the HARD side of the soft/hard spectrum and so even though the swirls and scratches were shallow, it took a lot of pads, products and buffing to remove them to show car quality level. As such - more work and less pictures of the actual process.

And then I added this, could have left it all out but I thought it might help someone? I always type for the FUTURE, never the present.

A few people have asked me,

Why so many cutting pads?

I stated this above, but here it is again - the paint on this Corvette is HARD.

How foam pads work

I'm going to go deep, so read carefully.


Pad Saturation

When you apply product to the face of the pad - then place the face of the pad against the pad - for that brief moment - the product is going INTO the pad. Then when you turn the polisher ON and start working the product, the violent oscillating action and downward pressure assists the liquid in the product to migrate further into the pad. The result is the pad becomes wet or saturated.


Pad Softenting

As foam becomes wet with product it changes the foam by making it SOFTER and less SHARP. Think about it? Have you ever buffed out a car and after using a product the pad become harder and more coarse? Of course not. As the pad becomes wet it becomes soft and as this means it STOPS doing what it was intended to do and in the case of a foam cutting pad - it stops cutting. In the case of a foam polishing pad - it stops polishing.

In a more or less simple explanation - both foam cutting and foam polishing pads become foam finishing pads Common sense - we don't do paint correction on medium to hard paints using foam finishing pads.


So the reason I switched out to multiple pads is

A: Because I can. I have a huge collection of good, used pads here at the garage because I teach classes with up to 26 people in a class. In my classes, we work on cars, we don't sit in chairs. Everyone gets their own tools and pads and products, so "yes" I have access to plenty of pads and tools.

B: It's faster to switch to a clean, DRY foam cutting pad then to limp along with a limp or soft pad.

C: This was a Show Car Detail, not anything less. The owner wanted perfect paint. You don't get to perfection quickly using only a few pads.


I'll tell you one thing, the 3D One compound/polish with a fresh, dry foam cutting pad on the Supa BEAST nailed it. Micro-tools include the FLEX PiXiE and the RUPES Nano Long Neck - both cool tools.

Try to find all of the above deep info on a YouTube channel.


:dunno:

 

[c62008]

thanks for your time. you have the best info . This was helpful as all your post are. I thought maybe the vette was a harder surface to correct. I really don't know how you keep up with all the questions and replies but I'm greatfull, thanks again Norm Gilmoure. Hope I can get to your classes when you start traveling again.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

thanks for your time. you have the best info . This was helpful as all your post are. I thought maybe the vette was a harder surface to correct. I really don't know how you keep up with all the questions and replies but I'm greatfull, thanks again Norm Gilmoure. Hope I can get to your classes when you start traveling again.

Glad it helped...

I hope to be doing roadshow classes soon too...

Cool color for your car, orange is my favorite color. The color kind of grew on me after owning my orange Corvette-on-the-water for 20 years....

Corvette on the water = fiberglass and fast