Question about Jeweling?

Is Carpro Reflect and a gold pad a suitable combination for jeweling?
 
I personally like to use M205 and the Megs Professional 6.5" Beige finishing Pad with my DA set to 4 or 5. :)

That pad is VERY soft and has no cut so it works well for me, softer than the Megs Black Finishing pads..

I think it's a good follow up after the Megs Yellow Polishing pads and M205. :)
 
A gold Lake Country pad along with Menzerna SF4500 is a tried and true Jeweling combination.

Would a finishing pad and sf4500 work with a flex 3401?

I'm a bit confused...so jeweling is a just a coined term for finishing with a rotary but you can achieve the same results with a DA correct?
 
Would a finishing pad and sf4500 work with a flex 3401?

I'm a bit confused...so jeweling is a just a coined term for finishing with a rotary but you can achieve the same results with a DA correct?

The following may be of some assistance.

Far be it from me to speak for Barry but in my humble opinion, any polisher that works, that is the tool is capable of removing defects by abrading the paint, then the tool can be used to jewel the paint at least to some level. The trick will be to experiment with different factors to dial-in a process that achieves the goal, things like,

Pad selection
Product selection
Arm Speed
Downward pressure
Speed Setting of the tool

I wrote an article that touches on these types of factors for polishing in general and interestingly enough, in the article I gave due credit where credit was due to person that shared with me "their" idea or analogy.

The Graphic Equalizer Analogy to Polishing Paint


Mike Pennington, the Director of Training for Meguiar's, gave me this analogy a long time ago so I want to give him credit for it because it's a good analogy BUT you have to be old enough to remember Graphic Equalizers.

Graphic Equalizers
GraphicEqualizer01.jpg


GraphicEqualizer02.jpg



The analogy being that you can adjust your pad, product, tool and technique just like you can adjust music using a graphic equalizer and when everything is dialed-in perfect for the paint you're working on you'll get the results you're looking for.

It does mean sometimes playing around a little to find the perfect combination of products and procedures kind of like adjusting a graphic equalizer for a single song so it sounds perfect to your ears.

When everything is right... you'll make beautiful music or in this case you create a show car finish.

Of course in order to experiment it means you need to have more than one product in your arsenal of detailing products.

Usually, a good compound, a couple of polishes with correction ability, a finishing polish and some LSP's, this could include cleaner/waxes and finishing waxes.

Clay, Car Wash, Microfiber Towels and if you work by machine then a variety of buffing pads and if you work by hand then a variety of hand applicator pads.


:xyxthumbs:
 
I'm a bit confused...so jeweling is a just a coined term for finishing with a rotary but you can achieve the same results with a DA correct?

Jewling is indeed a term derived from Rotary techniques. In theory you can achieve similar results with a DA, but it will take a lot longer, and the results wont be as spectacular.

As far as what products to use for "jeweling", there isnt a one product fits all. Jeweling car paint requires lower rpm speeds with a constant rotary action, in which of course only a Rotary can achieve. The right pressure, and pad for that particular paint your working on. My best advice, unless your working on an extraordinary show car, jewling car paint is a complete waste of time on a DD car. The difference will be vaguely noticeable to the untrained eye.

My 2 cents.
 
Jewling is indeed a term derived from Rotary techniques. In theory you can achieve similar results with a DA, but it will take a lot longer, and the results wont be as spectacular.

As far as what products to use for "jeweling", there isnt a one product fits all. Jeweling car paint requires lower rpm speeds with a constant rotary action, in which of course only a Rotary can achieve. The right pressure, and pad for that particular paint your working on. My best advice, unless your working on an extraordinary show car, jewling car paint is a complete waste of time on a DD car. The difference will be vaguely noticeable to the untrained eye.

My 2 cents.
:iagree:However I've been jeweling with Ultrafina at 1800 rpms because of the directions. Never tried lower rpms..I'll try that next time.
 
:iagree:However I've been jeweling with Ultrafina at 1800 rpms because of the directions. Never tried lower rpms..I'll try that next time.

Give it a shot, especially with a Makita. As a matter of fact many professional detailers who work on show cars, state most of their final polishing is done with low RPMs with a rotary. 1800 rpms is defenitely in the ball park of the right range you want to be at when jeweling.
 
Would a finishing pad and sf4500 work with a flex 3401?

I'm a bit confused...so jeweling is a just a coined term for finishing with a rotary but you can achieve the same results with a DA correct?
Total, absolute "Smoothness" of the paint is the goal when jeweling (burnishing is also what I know it as).

Since Rotaries are direct drive units, they tend to be "smoother" in operation than say:
A machine that rotates...and oscillates...simultaneously.

I would think that an individual's skill level using various "buffing-machines"
also plays a critical role when it comes to jeweling.


One "Jeweling with a Rotary" caveat:
Even at this highly refined process; and while using ultra-fine polishes, and corresponding jeweling-pads:
There's still a chance in having those unpalatable, and hellacious-holograms, seemingly appear out of nowhere.


Bob
 
Being completely unfamiliar with the term Jeweling when it comes to the art of auto detailing, I am quite pleased to see that it has absolutely nothing in common with the jeweling i'm familiar with, in Gunsmithing. In fact, its basically the exact opposite.
 
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