Question about polish 3d uno hd?
- Thread starter Tim IL
- Start date
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 2
Info about this stuff can be found here:
-3dproducts.com
-3dproducts.com/MSDS-Sheets.html
Your Friend,
Bob
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Hi Tim,
What are you working on?
What is your goal?
What tools and pads do you have?
Are you new to machine polishing?
What are you working on?
What is your goal?
What tools and pads do you have?
Are you new to machine polishing?
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 2
-"Similar abrasive-ingredients"...may be found in many car-care: Polishing-products,
by perusing their MSDS's (ex: search M105/M205).
-Now...If searching MSDS's turns out to be too convoluted of a process...
Then I suggest contacting this man for all things 3D/HD:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/members/david-fermani.html
Bob
- Thread starter
- #6
Bob
Thanks bob I already bought the product.
Mike
I Diteilr begins , I use the machine das 6 pro and pads lake cantry.
I live in Israel and we don't have good products like the m105 and m205, So i bought "3D uno hd" and want to hear from you what you think about this product that I worked with did not get the results as I wanted..
Thanks bob I already bought the product.
Mike
I Diteilr begins , I use the machine das 6 pro and pads lake cantry.
I live in Israel and we don't have good products like the m105 and m205, So i bought "3D uno hd" and want to hear from you what you think about this product that I worked with did not get the results as I wanted..
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Hi Tim,
I've never used any of the HD products, that brand belongs to Tunch Goren who was a guest here at Detail Fest a few years back and I'm met him at our event and then a few more times over the years at SEMA.
I've seen a lot of posts by others about this product but I've never used it before myself.
That said, no matter what the product you're going to use, I'm going to recommend the same thing I've been recommending since 1994 on the Internet and that is to do a Test Spot. Here's my article on how to do a test spot. In this article I explain exactly how to do the and why.
Read through the article and after reading through the article post a follow-up reply telling me exactly what you've done to date.
Include,
Vehicle? Year - Make - Model
Paint Type? Basecoat/Clearcoat or Single Stage
Factory or Repaint?
Which pads?
And describe how you used the tool, pad type and pressure, did you use a tape-line, etc.
How To Do a Test Spot
A Test Spot
A Test Spot is where you take the products, pads, tools and your best technique and buff one small section, usually on a horizontal panel, to test out these things to see if they'll create the results you want, hope for and dream about in some cases.
If your choice of products, pads, tools and technique works to remove the defects and restore the finish to your expectations, then theoretically you should be able to duplicate the same process to the rest of the vehicle and create the same results.
If your choice of products, pads, tools and your technique doesn't create the results you want, hope for and dream about then you can come to the forum and post what you're seeing and we'll do our best to help you tweak your technique, substitute different products, pads and/or tools to see you through to success.
Tape Line
It helps to place a piece of painter's tape on a horizontal surface, usually the hood or trunk lid but if you want to be more discreet you can use the roof. Then only work on one side of the tape line as this will make it very easy for you to see visual changes due to the distinct demarcation line between before and after results.
Tape-line using 3M Green Painter's Tape
Before and after results along the demarcation line
Test Spot performed by Nick Rutter @ Autogeek on a severely oxidized 2006 GMC Canyon
Here's a series of pictures taken by my co-worker Nick from a severely neglected truck he helped another co-worker Jason to buff out. For this project Nicked performed a Test Spot and the pictures really tell the story of what a Test Spot would look like that I've created this article using these pictures and Nick's permission.
The project vehicle is a severely neglected 2006 GMC Canyon with a heavily oxidized clear coat finish. In this case Nick used a one-step cleaner/wax applied by machine but you would buff the paint in the same way with whatever "system" you were planning on using.
If using a multiple step approach then you would use all the products and do all the steps to your Test Spot because this would be what you would do to the entire vehicle if the results from your Test Spot are good and you want to see what the true end-results are going to be. You can if you want skip applying the LSP or Last Step Product if you're happy with the last prep step as in most cases the application of your LSP will simply either make the paint look even better or maintain the results you've created.
Test Spot
Hood Competed
Truck completed
See the original write-up for this project here,
How To: Maximize Time with a Cleaner Wax/AIO
Test every detailing project that's new to you
If you've never worked on the paint on the project you're currently detailing, the before you buff out the entire car, take a moment to do a Test Spot.
I do a Test Spot on ever car I work on as this give me an idea of,
- How the paint reacts to machine polishing
- How the products and pads are working on this specific type of paint
- A feel for if the paint is hard or soft or somewhere in-between
- A very good idea as to how the paint will and thus how the vehicle will look after the project is finished.
Here's the results from some of the Test Spots we've done to some of the recent projects cars here at AGO
1959 Chevrolet El Camino - Extreme Makeover - Modeled by Christina
Live Broadcast Video - 1965 Plymouth Valiant - Extreme Makeover
Before
Test Spot
After
Wetsanding Test Spot
Even if you're going to wetsand or dampsand a vehicle it's just as important to do a Test Spot by sanding a section of paint and then testing to see what it's going to take to remove 100% of your sanding marks.
Test Spot
Hood compounded
After
Test, test, test...
Test out the products you're planning on using over the entire vehicle to one small area first. Make sure you're getting the results you want, hope for and dream about before buffing out the entire project.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
- 7
Also read through my Trouble Shooting article on using DA Polishers, the info in this article is just as accurate as when I wrote it 8 years ago and applies no matter what the brand of the dual action polisher, pads and chemicals...
DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide
When you're first starting out machine polishing and learning to use a DA Polisher it's common to have questions about your results and your results are directly tied to your technique.
Here's a list of the most common problems,
1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.
Shrink the size of your work area down. You can't tackle to large of an area at one time. The average size work area should be around 20" by 20". Most generic recommendations say to work an area 2' by 2' but for the correction step, that's too large. You have to do some experimenting, (called a Test Spot), to find out how easy or how hard the defects are coming out of your car's paint system and then adjust your work area to the results of your Test Spot. The harder the paint the smaller the area you want to work.
2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.
For removing defects out of the paint you want to use what we call a Slow Arm Speed. It's easy and actually natural for most people new to machine polishing to move the polisher quickly over the paint but that's the wrong technique. One reason I think people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they hear the sound of the motor spinning fast and this has psychological effect which causes them to match their arm movement to the perceived fast speed of the polisher's motor.
Another reason people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they think like this,
"If I move the polisher quickly, I'll get done faster"
But it doesn't work that way. Anytime you're trying to remove swirls, scratches, water spots or oxidation using a DA Polisher you need to move the polisher s-l-o-w-l-y over the paint.
3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.
When first starting out many people are scared of burning or swirling their paint, so they take the safe route of running the polisher at too low of a speed setting but this won't work. The action of the polisher is already g-e-n-t-l-e, you need the speed and specifically the pad oscillating and rotating over the paint as well as the combination of time, (slow arm speed), together with the abrasives, the pad aggressiveness, and the downward pressure to remove small particles of paint which is how your remove below surface defects like swirls or scratches.
Removing below surface defects is a leveling process where you need the abrasives to take little bites out of the paint and to get the abrasives to take these little bites with a tool that uses a Free Floating Spindle Bearing Assembly you need all of the above factors working for you including a high speed setting.
4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.
For the same reason as stated in #3, people are scared, or perhaps a better word is apprehensive, to apply too much downward pressure to the polisher and the result of too little pressure is no paint is removed thus no swirls are removed.
5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.
If you push too hard you will slow down the rotating movement of the pad and the abrasives won't be effectively worked against the paint. You need to apply firm pressure to engage the abrasives against the paint but no so much that the pad is barely rotating. This is where it's a good idea to use a permanent black marker to make a mark on the back of your backing plate so your eyes can easily see if the pad is rotating or not and this will help you to adjust your downward pressure accordingly.
Correct technique means finding a balance of applying enough downward pressure to remove defects but not too much downward pressure as to stop the rotating movement of the pad.
This balance is affected by a lot of factors like the lubricity of the product you're using, some compounds and polishes provide more lubrication than others and this makes it easier to maintain pad rotation under pressure.
Another factor that can affect pad rotation are raised body lines, edges and curved surfaces as anytime you have uneven pressure on just a portion of the face of the pad it can slow or stop pad rotation. This is where experience comes into play and experience comes from time spent behind the polisher.
6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.
Applying pressure in such a way as to put too much pressure to one edge of the pad will cause it to stop rotating and thus decrease abrading ability.
7. Using too much product or using too little product.
Too much product hyper-lubricates the surface and the result is that abrasives won't effectively bite into the paint but instead will tend to skim over the surface. Overusing product will also accelerate pad saturation as well increase the potential for slinging splatter onto adjacent panels.
Too little product will means too little lubrication and this can interfere with pad rotation.
Again there needs to be a balance between too much product and too little product and finding this balance comes from reading articles like this one, watching videos an most important, going out into the garage and putting in time behind the polisher and as you're buffing with specific product and pad combinations, pay attention to pad rotation.
8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.
Most people simply don't clean their pad often enough to maximize the effectiveness of their DA Polisher. Anytime you're abrading the paint you have two things building up on the face of your buffing pad,
Pad Cleaning Articles
Why it's important to clean your pads often...
How to clean your foam pad on the fly
How to use the Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer
:buffing:
DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide
Tyler, age 15 removing swirls using a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher
When you're first starting out machine polishing and learning to use a DA Polisher it's common to have questions about your results and your results are directly tied to your technique.
Here's a list of the most common problems,
1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.
2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.
3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.
4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.
5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.
6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.
7. Using too much product or using too little product.
8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.
Here's a list of the solutions in matching order, 2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.
3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.
4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.
5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.
6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.
7. Using too much product or using too little product.
8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.
1. Trying to work too large of an area at one time.
Shrink the size of your work area down. You can't tackle to large of an area at one time. The average size work area should be around 20" by 20". Most generic recommendations say to work an area 2' by 2' but for the correction step, that's too large. You have to do some experimenting, (called a Test Spot), to find out how easy or how hard the defects are coming out of your car's paint system and then adjust your work area to the results of your Test Spot. The harder the paint the smaller the area you want to work.
2. Moving the polisher too fast over the surface.
For removing defects out of the paint you want to use what we call a Slow Arm Speed. It's easy and actually natural for most people new to machine polishing to move the polisher quickly over the paint but that's the wrong technique. One reason I think people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they hear the sound of the motor spinning fast and this has psychological effect which causes them to match their arm movement to the perceived fast speed of the polisher's motor.
Another reason people move the polisher too quickly over the paint is because they think like this,
"If I move the polisher quickly, I'll get done faster"
But it doesn't work that way. Anytime you're trying to remove swirls, scratches, water spots or oxidation using a DA Polisher you need to move the polisher s-l-o-w-l-y over the paint.
3. Using too low of speed setting for removing swirls.
When first starting out many people are scared of burning or swirling their paint, so they take the safe route of running the polisher at too low of a speed setting but this won't work. The action of the polisher is already g-e-n-t-l-e, you need the speed and specifically the pad oscillating and rotating over the paint as well as the combination of time, (slow arm speed), together with the abrasives, the pad aggressiveness, and the downward pressure to remove small particles of paint which is how your remove below surface defects like swirls or scratches.
Removing below surface defects is a leveling process where you need the abrasives to take little bites out of the paint and to get the abrasives to take these little bites with a tool that uses a Free Floating Spindle Bearing Assembly you need all of the above factors working for you including a high speed setting.
4. Using too little downward pressure on the head of the polisher.
For the same reason as stated in #3, people are scared, or perhaps a better word is apprehensive, to apply too much downward pressure to the polisher and the result of too little pressure is no paint is removed thus no swirls are removed.
5. Using too much downward pressure on the head of the polisher so the pad quits rotating.
If you push too hard you will slow down the rotating movement of the pad and the abrasives won't be effectively worked against the paint. You need to apply firm pressure to engage the abrasives against the paint but no so much that the pad is barely rotating. This is where it's a good idea to use a permanent black marker to make a mark on the back of your backing plate so your eyes can easily see if the pad is rotating or not and this will help you to adjust your downward pressure accordingly.
Correct technique means finding a balance of applying enough downward pressure to remove defects but not too much downward pressure as to stop the rotating movement of the pad.
This balance is affected by a lot of factors like the lubricity of the product you're using, some compounds and polishes provide more lubrication than others and this makes it easier to maintain pad rotation under pressure.
Another factor that can affect pad rotation are raised body lines, edges and curved surfaces as anytime you have uneven pressure on just a portion of the face of the pad it can slow or stop pad rotation. This is where experience comes into play and experience comes from time spent behind the polisher.
6. Not holding the polisher in a way to keep the pad flat while working your compound or polish.
Applying pressure in such a way as to put too much pressure to one edge of the pad will cause it to stop rotating and thus decrease abrading ability.
7. Using too much product or using too little product.
Too much product hyper-lubricates the surface and the result is that abrasives won't effectively bite into the paint but instead will tend to skim over the surface. Overusing product will also accelerate pad saturation as well increase the potential for slinging splatter onto adjacent panels.
Too little product will means too little lubrication and this can interfere with pad rotation.
Again there needs to be a balance between too much product and too little product and finding this balance comes from reading articles like this one, watching videos an most important, going out into the garage and putting in time behind the polisher and as you're buffing with specific product and pad combinations, pay attention to pad rotation.
8. Not cleaning the pad often enough.
Most people simply don't clean their pad often enough to maximize the effectiveness of their DA Polisher. Anytime you're abrading the paint you have two things building up on the face of your buffing pad,
- Removed paint
- Spent product
Pad Cleaning Articles
Why it's important to clean your pads often...
How to clean your foam pad on the fly
How to use the Grit Guard Universal Pad Washer
Tyler, age 15 machine applying a paste wax using a Porter Cable 7424XP Dual Action Polisher
:buffing:
4AudiQ
New member
- Feb 13, 2012
- 99
- 0
I have used the product on my '95 Audi for 2 years, now. It goes on easy and off easy.
I used a DA Porter Cable and LC foam pads. I like HD's products because they are simple to use.
I think you will like them.
Here is a video: New Winter Coat 8-20-2011 on Vimeo
I used a DA Porter Cable and LC foam pads. I like HD's products because they are simple to use.
I think you will like them.
Here is a video: New Winter Coat 8-20-2011 on Vimeo
you must be talking about polish not uno correct?
Correct, I just noticed that the title says "polish 3d uno hd" so i thought he meant the polish, which is a pretty good finishing polish. I didn't care for the UNO however after many cars of testing and stopped using it.
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 2
Good decision, it's a far superior and tried and true combination.
VISITOR
Active member
- May 10, 2007
- 9,859
- 3
it's good to have a variety of polishes/compounds - since you already have it, keep it and try it out and see how it works for you. HD CUT seems to be getting some great reviews and i look forward to trying it out...
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 2
since you already have it, keep it and try it out and see how it works for you.
this product that I worked with did not get the results as I wanted..
Once again...Tim IL...
rops:Bob
VISITOR
Active member
- May 10, 2007
- 9,859
- 3
TimIL, must of overlooked your post sorry. PM tdekany, he has extensive hours with HD UNO and may offer some good advise for you that may help...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/members/tdekany.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/members/tdekany.html