Question about the Speedy Prep Towel

Audios S6

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I got my fine grade Speedy Prep Towel yesterday and upon close inspection, there are some pin holes in the rubberized coating. It's diffcult to tell if these go all the way through the coating. They are several dispersed throughout the face of the towel. They have the appearance of solvent pop, although they seem too spread out to actually be an over application problem.

Are these pinholes common or did I get a bad towel? I'm a bit concerned about debris getting stuck in these pinholes.
 
I got my fine grade Speedy Prep Towel yesterday and upon close inspection, there are some pin holes in the rubberized coating. It's diffcult to tell if these go all the way through the coating. They are several dispersed throughout the face of the towel. They have the appearance of solvent pop, although they seem too spread out to actually be an over application problem.

Are these pinholes common or did I get a bad towel? I'm a bit concerned about debris getting stuck in these pinholes.

My medium and fine grade both have these. I think it's common when the coating is sprayed on. I haven't seen any ill effects from it nor any additional marring from the medium grade towel. My advice, clay all of your windows first. That seems to help 'break in the towel' to be ready for the paint.
 
Are these pinholes common or did I get a bad towel? I'm a bit concerned about debris getting stuck in these pinholes.


What you're seeing is normal.

Wash or wipe any loose dirt off the car first before doing any type of mechanical contamination.

Now... for the contaminants NOT removed by washing or wiping clean and your concern about "these contaminants" getting stuck in the pinholes.

That would be the least of my concerns. My concerns are to remove any "Above Surface Bonded Contaminants" for a host of reasons I explain here in my article on using detailing clay, (different type of product but same principals apply)


The 4 primary benefits of using detailing clay to clay paint


Using detailing clay to clay your car's paint, or your customer's car's paint will,

1: Claying safely removes Above Surface Bonded Contaminants

2: Claying paint enable your choice of wax or paint sealant to better bond or adhere to the paint.

3: Claying paint restores a silky, smooth, clean surface.

4: Claying paint makes polishing easier, more effective and safer.​


The big picture is this... if after you feel your car's paint and you discover there are some type of above surface bonded contaminants that did not come off from washing or wiping the paint clean, the sooner or later you have to "touch" the paint with "something" to get these contaminants off the paint.

That's when it's time to pick you poison...

  • Detailing Clay
  • Speedy Prep Surface Towel
  • Opti-Eraser
  • Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads
  • Nanoskin Wash Mitts
  • Elastrofoam Blocks
  • Chemically dissolve the contaminants


All of the above require "something" to touch the paint.

I wouldn't let the pinholes in the rubber bother you, they certainly don't bother me. My goal is to get the paint smooth because gloss comes from smoothness and my goal is to always create the glossiest finish possible. (at least for the majority of the cars I work on).

I also recommend that no matter which method and which product you use to remove above surface bonded contaminants, that afterwards you plan on doing at least one machine cleaning or polishing step to ensure a clear, mar-free finish before applying your LSP.


:)
 
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