Question regarding 3 in 1 products

[guess23959]

I just got done watching a youtube video of Griots 3 in 1 vs Meguiars 3 in 1 (both are cleaner, polish, wax.) What these companies offer in 1 bottle is a great idea, but I'm curious if it would that be the same thing as say if I mixed my own concoction like say Meguiars swirl remover, glaze, polish, and nano wax, all in one bottle? I only ask this because as I keep doing my car and customer's cars also, all of these bottles start to run low and going around the vehicles numerous times and consuming lots of time gets me thinking, "what if I mixed my own stuff and went around the whole car once?" Good idea, or leave it to the professional chemists who make the products? Just curious about what everybody's thoughts are.

 

[PaulMys]

Leave it to the pros in my opinion.

 

[WaxMaster1]

Leave it to the pros in my opinion.

I'll 2nd that

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[pickles]

Isn't HD speed just a mixture of two of their other products? Polish and Poxy?

It's the concentration that you would need to know to make it effective.

 

[PaulMys]

Isn't HD speed just a mixture of two of their other products? Polish and Poxy?

It's the concentration that you would need to know to make it effective.

Yes, it may combine the same properties of both, but I'm sure they just don't take HD Polish and Poxy and shake them them up in a bottle. There is more science than that to the process.

 

[SWETM]

A 3in1 is like an AIO/ abrasive cleaner wax. Mostly and not every time 3in1 is more user friendly when hand polishing and also marketed to 3in1. As not all waxes is actually waxes but sealants.

I would not mix polish and protection by my self. There are some great AIO out there. McKees 37 360 if you want longevity and it seems like Blackfire One Step Finish AIO is also great at the longevity part. Take a look at the Sonax Polymer Net Shield to top an AIO with as it seems to be bonding as good as on bare paint.

 

[FUNX650]

I just got done watching a youtube video
of Griots 3 in 1 vs Meguiars 3 in 1 (both
are cleaner, polish, wax.) What these
companies offer in 1 bottle is a great idea,

but I'm curious if it would that be the same
thing as say if I mixed my own concoction
like say Meguiars swirl remover, glaze,
polish, and nano wax, all in one bottle?

I only ask this because as I keep doing my
car and customer's cars also, all of these
bottles start to run low and going around
the vehicles numerous times and consuming
lots of time gets me thinking, "what if I mixed
my own stuff and went around the whole car once?"

Good idea, or leave it to the professional chemists
who make the products? Just curious about what
everybody's thoughts are.

In the traditional sense:
The blending of detailing products, in an
exacting manner, is best left to the domain
of the professional Chemists. But there are
many Detailers that can, at times, be quite
“non-traditional”.

•As such:
-If I were to be dead-set on using up the
remains in each of the above listed Meguiar’s
containers, by mixing them all into one container:

-I’d make sure to perform two separate and
independent “Test Spots”:
1.) Using the Meguiar’s AIO
2.) Using the above DIY Meguiar’s Mixture

•That way I would be able to see, first hand,
if this DIY Meg’s Mixture concoction was actually
capable of effectuating an exacting AIO result.

Or if I was just spinning my wheels...



Bob

 

[guess23959]

Thank you everybody for your thoughts and input! I figured I'd ask and see what everybody thinks. Maybe I'll get a cheap test panel from a junk yard that's black and do a test or something and report back with a write up and see if it works. I have a black 01 Grand Prix 2dr so the paint/clear isn't anywhere near as durable as the newer cars are.

 

[Calendyr]

I have no problem mixing polishes and compounds (like M105 with M205 or M105 with D300) but when it comes to protection, I see no reason to. Plenty of good products on the market, why would I try to mix something that might fail after a week because one of the ingredient of the compound prevents the sealant from binding to the paint?

I am curious, how did the products from Griot and Meguiar's fair against each other? I really like Meguiar's products, D166 Ultra Polishing Wax is my goto AIO. I still have half a gallon of D151 Paint Reconditioning creme that I never use now This year I will use it for my basic detail package. Will do a 2 pass at medium speed. Some correction, some oxydation removal and decent protection, but when am done with that gallon, D166 all the way... unless McKee's 360 manages to win me over, have not tried it yet

 

[guess23959]

I have no problem mixing polishes and compounds (like M105 with M205 or M105 with D300) but when it comes to protection, I see no reason to. Plenty of good products on the market, why would I try to mix something that might fail after a week because one of the ingredient of the compound prevents the sealant from binding to the paint?

I am curious, how did the products from Griot and Meguiar's fair against each other? I really like Meguiar's products, D166 Ultra Polishing Wax is my goto AIO. I still have half a gallon of D151 Paint Reconditioning creme that I never use now This year I will use it for my basic detail package. Will do a 2 pass at medium speed. Some correction, some oxydation removal and decent protection, but when am done with that gallon, D166 all the way... unless McKee's 360 manages to win me over, have not tried it yet

I'm glad to see there's someone out there who has tried this. I might go forth and buy a test panel to see how this goes.
Here's the video I watched that influenced my question and idea about mixing supplies together.
YouTube

 

[Calendyr]

I'm glad to see there's someone out there who has tried this. I might go forth and buy a test panel to see how this goes.
Here's the video I watched that influenced my question and idea about mixing supplies together.
YouTube

That video reminded me to try D166 on microfiber. I did 2 polishing jobs this week with D166 and I completelly forgot. I normally use them either on orange polishing pads or Blue cutting pads but from the results I saw on Jimbo's videos this winter, I really wanted to give microfiber cutting pads a try. He is getting a lot of correction done and the products finish beautiful.

 

[dlc95]

The old sears craftsman 10" Traditional Orbital Buffers came with a "Polish / Glaze", and a "Wax". They suggested combining the two on the same pad to save time.

They may have formulated those products to be used in that manner...

I remember watching my ex fiance's older sister do that to her car back when I was on a detailing sabbatical (2003
-ish?).

When I did her mom's car I brought over my rotary, M02, M09, and M26, and a bunch of Megs / Edge pads. It never occurred to me that I should put all those products on the same pad and expect a satisfactory result.

 

[guess23959]

The old sears craftsman 10" Traditional Orbital Buffers came with a "Polish / Glaze", and a "Wax". They suggested combining the two on the same pad to save time.

They may have formulated those products to be used in that manner...

I remember watching my ex fiance's older sister do that to her car back when I was on a detailing sabbatical (2003
-ish?).

When I did her mom's car I brought over my rotary, M02, M09, and M26, and a bunch of Megs / Edge pads. It never occurred to me that I should put all those products on the same pad and expect a satisfactory result.

And you were satisfied with the result with the combination?

 

[dlc95]

And you were satisfied with the result with the combination?

My combination? At the time I was. It wouldn't compare to what I like now. I recently used M09 and it didn't finish as nice as the modern polishes. M02 doesn't cut or finish as well as the modern medium polishes either. I still like M26 though.

Her car looked better than it did before she worked on it.

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

D166 has an underwhelming finish on soft black paint for being an AIO. Sure as heck nice to work with, though. I think it’ll do great on harder paint.


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[Calendyr]

D166 has an underwhelming finish on soft black paint for being an AIO. Sure as heck nice to work with, though. I think it’ll do great on harder paint.


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It has a lot of cut, maybe that is what is causing the issue on soft paint. Have you tried a different pad? Larry did a video recently suggesting to use harder pads when dealing with soft paint.

 

[guess23959]

Same thing like when I tried the Turtlewax Blackbox just for haha's. I mixed the two and I found that I had the same results that I did when I used each bottle separately but cut my time in half by not having to go around the car a 2nd time. That's why I figured I'd ask to see what you all thought. I also prefer harder pads, I like the Meguiars drill adapter that I use with every car that i do. Been using that since it first came out and excellent results every time.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Larry did a video recently suggesting to use harder pads when dealing with soft paint.

I've buffed out a LOT of cars in my life and when dealing with soft paint, hard or aggressive pads, I'm guessing we're talking about "cutting" pads, leave pad haze in the paint.

That is the aggressiveness of the pad itself will cause micro-marring.


Pad Haze
I use the term PAD HAZE to describe and differentiate the micro-marring caused by the pad alone as compared to micro-marring caused by the abrasive technology.


The last 4 cars I detailed all had hard paint and I could easily finish out with a foam polishing pad. Didn't need to switch to a foam "finishing" pad. I cut the 1969 Hemi car with an orange LC Force Hybrid pad and then polished with a white LC foam Force Hybrid pad.


Recently I detailed an all original 1976 black Porsche with the original, basecoat/clearcoat paint. The paint was SO SOFT - I CUT it with a black foam finishing pad.

That's right. I CUT or corrected the paint using a soft foam finishing pad.


I tested foam "polishing" pads and the pad alone micro-marred the paint.


Just sharing what I've seen when dealing with soft paints.

Here's the car and the pads, tools and products I used. Just to note, most guys probably don't know this but early basecoat/clearcoat paints were very soft. I know this because I was working as a Trainer for Meguiar's, calling on bodyshops when the industry was changing over from single stage, solvent-evaporation enamels to the (at the time) new basecoat/clearcoat technology. This is experience I am so thankful for now days. Gives me an edge when writing, talking or teaching.


1976 Porsche - Original basecoat/clearcoat paint

I tested Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover (medium cut polish), with a foam polishing pad and it removed the swirls and scratches but left the paint with micro-marring. I then tested the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, (fine cut polish), with a foam polishing pad and this removed the swirls and scratches but also left micro-marring. I then tested the Finishing Glaze with the Lake Country HDO and SDO black foam finishing pads and this combo REMOVED the swirls and scratches and finished out perfect. Then I carefully chemically stripped the paint and sealed with PBL Surface Coating.

Tools I used...

Lake Country black foam finishing pads

End results

 

[dlc95]

I've buffed out a LOT of cars in my life and when dealing with soft paint, hard or aggressive pads, I'm guessing we're talking about "cutting" pads, leave pad haze in the paint.

That is the aggressiveness of the pad itself will cause micro-marring.


Pad Haze
I use the term PAD HAZE to describe and differentiate the micro-marring caused by the pad alone as compared to micro-marring caused by the abrasive technology.


The last 4 cars I detailed all had hard paint and I could easily finish out with a foam polishing pad. Didn't need to switch to a foam "finishing" pad. I cut the 1969 Hemi car with an orange LC Force Hybrid pad and then polished with a white LC foam Force Hybrid pad.


Recently I detailed an all original 1976 black Porsche with the original, basecoat/clearcoat paint. The paint was SO SOFT - I CUT it with a black foam finishing pad.

That's right. I CUT or corrected the paint using a soft foam finishing pad.


I tested foam "polishing" pads and the pad alone micro-marred the paint.


Just sharing what I've seen when dealing with soft paints.

Here's the car and the pads, tools and products I used. Just to note, most guys probably don't know this but early basecoat/clearcoat paints were very soft. I know this because I was working as a Trainer for Meguiar's, calling on bodyshops when the industry was changing over from single stage, solvent-evaporation enamels to the (at the time) new basecoat/clearcoat technology. This is experience I am so thankful for now days. Gives me an edge when writing, talking or teaching.


1976 Porsche - Original basecoat/clearcoat paint

I tested Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover (medium cut polish), with a foam polishing pad and it removed the swirls and scratches but left the paint with micro-marring. I then tested the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, (fine cut polish), with a foam polishing pad and this removed the swirls and scratches but also left micro-marring. I then tested the Finishing Glaze with the Lake Country HDO and SDO black foam finishing pads and this combo REMOVED the swirls and scratches and finished out perfect. Then I carefully chemically stripped the paint and sealed with PBL Surface Coating.

Tools I used...

Lake Country black foam finishing pads

End results

Holy Moses the gloss on that Porsche is off the charts... Wow...

As far as the pads, I believe they were discussing the Rupes yellow and white polishing pad versus the much softer (pre thin disc?) Meguiar's black foam finishing pad on a 21mm tool, and M205 polish.

The theory was that the combination of the 21mm throw, and black pad would bind and bunch up in areas because the foam was so soft and tall, thus compromising the finish.

From there they did the water / M205 on the white Rupes finishing pad with some improvement, then finally the Rupes Yellow.

Kudos to those gentlemen for making it work. They have more patience than I, because in those situations I switch the juice first. I've had a couple situations where M205 just wasn't working no matter what I tried. It was a lot easier (for me) in that moment - to grab a fresh pad, and Menzerna 2500, and get the job done...

 

[Paul A.]

I will, at times, mix a cocktail of products to elicit more "cut" to effectively 1 step a job. My favorite lately is Menz HCC 400 and HD Speed. I can get a better "finish" and then leave a little LSP behind.

I am intrigued a bit by your proposal however, if it were me, I would use it on a test panel and fully evaluate what you are seeing, both short term results and long term wear and tear.

In my opinion, there are chemical engineers that put AIO's together. They then test them well before public release. It is their expertise that I trust. It is that expertise that yields the best combination of each of the AIO elements.

Having said that, I doubt you'll damage paint by combining a few products that are meant to be worked on paint. I say go for it (on a test panel) and let us know how your experiment went. I do like sometimes thinking outside the box.