Questions about Klasse AIO

[rweekley]

Well this weekend, I cleaned up my truck. Washed it Megs Gold Class, clayed it with Megs Clay Bar, cleaned paint with Megs Swirl X, flat white LC pad at speed 5 on my GG DA and then used Klasse AIO , CCS green pad at speed 4 on my GG DA.

Now my question/problem was with the Klasse AIO.

1. First, I didn't have any Wolfgang Spritzer as was recommended on the pad, so I tried to use Megs Quick Detailer instead. I just didn't feel/see where I was getting that even application of the Klasse AIO on the paint, with the use of the Quick Detailer, so I stopped using it. What is the purpose of using the Wolfgang Spritzer or as I tried using Megs Quick Detailer? To prevent dry buffing? If so, can you use Megs Quick Detailer on pads to prevent dry buffing?
2. Is Klasse AIO hard to wipe off? Even with using the Quick Detailer, it just seemed like it was hard to take off. Maybe I shouldn't even say hard, it just needed a little more elbow grease put into it. Just to let you know, I just applied it and then wiped it off, so I didn't let it sit.
3. Third questions, with Klasse AIO, do you have to make 4-6 section passes, or do you just use apply it like a wax with just one pass?

Just wanted to see what other peoples experiences with using Klasse AIO have been. Maybe since it was harder to take off, means it will be more durable.

 

[SATracker]

I use KAIO and I like the final result, some guys find it useless.
1) I don't "spritz" the pad, I out on a small dab and start to work.
2) I usually put KAIO on with a PC & blue LC pad, a very thin layer, speed setting 4, working slowly. When I get too much on, it can be hard to get off. It's designed as a Wipe On-Wipe Off product.
3) I usually make a couple of passes to make sure everything got covered and to make sure it's spread out.

Hope this helps.

 

[jlb85]

Yep, work it in good until it dusts of flashes. Using less product on smaller areas makes this happen a whole lot faster. Use a less aggressive pad! Green is a step down from orange and a step up from white. So you are applying your LSP with a pad that is more aggressive than what you used to polish.

KAIO is very difficult to remove! Remove as soon as possible, and use clean towels for each panel. Use any QD to help get it completely off, but only after wiping as much off dry as possible (or you get a gooey mess quick).

I love KAIO for its versatility and durability, but I hardly ever use it as an LP on clients cars since it takes so much more effort to remove (and time).

 

[rweekley]

Use a less aggressive pad! Green is a step down from orange and a step up from white. So you are applying your LSP with a pad that is more aggressive than what you used to polish.

I used the green CCS pad due to from looking at the CCS foam buffing pad, they recommend the green one for AIO's

As far as the level of aggressiveness for CCS pad doesn't it go from Yellow being the most aggressive, Orange, White, Green, Gray, Blue and Red being the least aggressive?

Thanks for the responses. Klasse AIO is my first non-Megiuars AIO product and just wanting to compare my expierence with its use to others experience with it and looking for other recommendations to maybe try next time.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

cleaned paint with Megs Swirl X, flat white LC pad at speed 5 on my GG DA

and then used Klasse AIO , CCS green pad at speed 4 on my GG DA.

There are two types of green foam in the CCS line, one is an aggressive cutting foam formula and the other is a soft polishing foam formula. You should be applying the Klasse AIO using the soft foam polishing pad.

Because you used SwirlX for your primary correction product, the Klasse AIO is your LSP and as such you don't need to or shouldn't have to "work it" over the paint, just massage it over the paint like you would any non-cleaning LSP, that is a few passes over each square inch and then move on to new territory.

Smart Foam Pad Varieties:

Yellow Cutting Foams 6.5 inch
Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam 6.5 inch
Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

Coarse Green Cutting/Polishing Foam 6.5 inch
This foam is of medium density with the ability to level very fine scratches and very light oxidation. Use light swirl removers with this pad.

White Polishing Foam 6.5 inch
Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so its perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Green Polishing/Finishing Foam 6.5 inch
Use this foam to apply one-step cleaner waxes. It is a balance of polishing and finishing that is perfect for all-in-one product application.

Gray Finishing Foam 6.5 inch
Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam 6.5 inch
This blue foam pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. The soft pad has no cut, making it perfect for applying nonabrasive products evenly.

Red Ultrasoft Wax/Sealant Foam 6.5 inch
This soft, imported foam is ideal for applying the final coat of wax or sealant. The foam works especially well when applying liquid waxes or sealants because it is firm enough to keep the majority of the product on the paint, rather than soaking it up. The red foam has no cut or cleaning ability.

Super Soft Gold Jeweling Foam 6.5 inch
The CCS Super Soft Gold Jeweling Pad is made of Lake Country's softest foam. Use the gold pad to apply a very fine polish or glaze as the final step of the polishing process. Jeweling is the term coined for this step because it intensifies gloss and reflectivity, like a jewel. The gold foam pad also works well for wax and sealant application.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

Just my 2 cents... since your prior step to applying KAIO was already a polish via Swirlx, you are essentially cleaning/prepping the paint already. It is not necessary to use KAIO in your case... you're almost prepping your paint twice. I would just jump straight to your favorite sealant if there was no marring evident from your white/Swirlx combo. If there was marring, then use a gray and something like M205 or PO85RD prior to the sealant. If you want to stick with Klasse, then use SG.

I personally don't use KAIO anymore (just occasionally on door jams and door sills now), because on some paints it tends to not only be difficult to remove, but it hazes up the paint... since it relies more on a chemical reaction for the "all in one" paint cleaning part.

 

[rweekley]

I'm starting to switch to the 5.5 inch pad, so I got the green low profile polishing/finishing pad.

How come for the 6.5 inch pads there are 2 different types of green pads, the coarse green cutting/polishing and the green finishing/polishing, but for the 5.5 inch pad there is only one, the green low profile polishing/finishing pad?

 

[rweekley]

Just my 2 cents... since your prior step to applying KAIO was already a polish via Swirlx, you are essentially cleaning/prepping the paint already. It is not necessary to use KAIO in your case... you're almost prepping your paint twice. I would just jump straight to your favorite sealant if there was no marring evident from your white/Swirlx combo. If there was marring, then use a gray and something like M205 or PO85RD prior to the sealant. If you want to stick with Klasse, then use SG.

I personally don't use KAIO anymore (just occasionally on door jams and door sills now), because on some paints it tends to not only be difficult to remove, but it hazes up the paint... since it relies more on a chemical reaction for the "all in one" paint cleaning part.

My truck was in the body shop in July for some painting and Saturday, 10/2/10 was 3 months, when they told me I was allowed to wax it. I knew the Swirl X would remove the swirls they put in my truck and as far as using the Klasse AIO, I just wanted to try something different. Just seeing if the Klasse AIO will be more durable and last longer through winter.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

as far as using the Klasse AIO, I just wanted to try something different. Just seeing if the Klasse AIO will be more durable and last longer through winter.

In that case, try Klasse SG. Pretty good durability. Also try Collinite products, 845 or 915. Both of which should last you throughout winter, and all available here on AG.

 

[buddhadog]

Ive used klasseAIO on hundreds of vehicles now and have found that only in a couple instances was it hard to get off........one if it was a single stage paint.....two if the vehicle alreay had a build up of WAX on it.

Klasse AIO is really a LSP and does not really work that well as a polish.

It is suposed to go on REALLY thin on a DAMP applicator. It is one of the easiest products to remove IMO if used correctly.

It dries almost instantly and really works well if applied by hand.

I think as another already posted you applied it too thick and were trying to use it like a polish when it works best as a LSP.

I love Klasse AIO and think its a great product!