Questions about polishing...

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beemergirl

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Hey everyone...I have some questions about polishing. First off, I've read most of the topics on polishing & I appreciate everyone's knowledge. I'm new to polishing & I recently purchased the UDM along w/ Menzerna SIP and 106ff polishes. I was excited to get started, but I'm discouraged now because 2 people I've recently talked to think I'm crazy for polishing my car. I have a BMW Z4 and the one person told me that I would take the clearcoat and paint right off the car if I'm not careful, especially around all the curves on that car. The other person told me that there is no need to polish my car and I might cause more damage than good. My basic question is that if you polish a car just once a year, doesn't it take off just a little of the clearcoat? Does this mean over a short period of time, you will reach the paint layer?? I'm confused. I was really looking forward to this, but I'm kinda lost now. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much...I've learned so much from this forum. By the way, I bought CCS 6.5" pads w/my machine...the blue, gray and white. Thanks again.
 
Dont worry about burning through your clear coat with a UDM. If you where using a rotary then yes, but a DA machine is very safe. Just be careful around corners. Make sure to not let more then one inch hang off the edge of any corner. I would reccomend getting some 4in pads. They can help get into those small spaces safely. And always use the less agressive method first. Dont start with the SIP, try the 106ff first and see if that works. Many people think that placing a machine on their paint is going to burn through their clear coat. Its mosly ignorance, or maybe a bad experience with a rotary. Many people on this forum use DAs, and we have our clear coat!! If you want a show car finish, you have to polish. Alot of focus is placed on wax, but polishing is what makes your car look its best.
I have not been polishing for a long time, but I am sure that many of members on this forum have. Maybe they could tell you how often you should polish in order to keep your clear coat intact.
Get out there and use your UDM!!!:cheers:
 
If you get rids of any swirls etc. then wash properly, you won't need an aggressive polish very often. The clear is thicker than you think. You'll probably trade cars before you work through the clear, especially with the UDM.
 
Thanks for your advice! I'm gonna get out there and make that puppy shine :)
 
beemergirl said:
Thanks for your advice! I'm gonna get out there and make that puppy shine :)
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Hell yea thats the spirit! I will be doing the same tommorow.:righton:
 
Don't let the uninformed get to ya! Take your time, and check out some of the AG videos - UDM is just like a PC, just a little stronger
 
You go girl! Don't listen to those other people. I bet they don't even wash their cars. I bet they take it to a car wash. They are not informed like you!
Alright we have another female in the group! :D
Welcome bimmergirl!
 
I just got into using a DA the UDM in fact and it is very easy. I dont think that you have to be all that carful even on the edges. But be carful all the same. I used XMT 4 wich is a compound on the trunk of my BMW 325IC and it worked like a charm I am not saying that nothing can happen but it is not likley plus you have a BMW and it has a very hard clear coat. You will love the machine.
 
Beemergirl: Maybe I can offer my $0.000002 (after taxes). I typically break down paint correction as follows:

1. Cutting (usually wet or color sanding to remove scratches or severe surface defects) and Compounding. Most cars can handles 2-3 cutting process during the life cycle of the car. A paint thickness guage is an absolute must to measure a starting thickness and an ending thickness. Most BMW's that I use the cutting technique have never had this process done. If they had a previous cutting process, I would know it when I used the paint guage. I use this process on areas where there is severe scratching.

Compounding is 90% of the work I do. Compounding with a compounding pad (sometimes called a cutting pad) or wool is for surface leveling and removal of all scratches and scrapes. Compounding also has different levels of aggressiveness. From a light compound like Optima to a heavy one like 3M Extra Cut.

2. Polishing. Polishing automotive paint removes light surface scratches and swirls. Following compounding (which actually produces uniform swirls of its' own), polishing brings the paint to the reflective surface you are looking for. Polishing a vehicle 2-3 times per year, depending upon vehicle usage, will not remove a measurable amount of clear coat.

3. Waxing. After the work is performed at the shop, the last step is protecting the work I've done. Because the cars I recondition are for resale, I don't know what the customer wants or how the customer is going to treat the car, so I give them the best possible paint preparation I can. I've had some customers bring their cars back to me after 1 year and they still look fantastic. I've had others treat their cars like Michael Vick's pitbulls!

So, polish away and enjoy your Z4!

Here are some visuals for reference:

First a BMW 745 with 1 door wet sanded (that door had been repainted by a shop and had a lot of orange peel finish) and the other door compounded.

May07_745_wetsanded_plusCompounded.jpg


Next up is a black Z4 that had a lot of scratches and swirls. This only required compounding as the base process

May07_Z4_SwirlsOnDoor.jpg


The compounding process actually produced more swirls which would be removed with polishing. This pic shows the compound swirls. I've seen cars in this condition that were "detailed" at a car lot....and left in that condition!

May07_Z4_Woolpad_afterWash.jpg


Finally, the finished Z4

DSC00029.jpg


DSC00026.jpg


And....the 745 doors that were wet sanded and compounded

May07_745_DoorReflectionOutside.jpg


Have fun!

Toto
 
Toto, I wish I could follow you around and just watch for a couple of weeks. You are a master, sir. Excellent work, as usual.
 
If you car needs polished I would difinitely polish it. The paint is usually thiner on the edges so use more caution around the edges. Using a UDM it will be very difficult to mess up your paint. Polishing you car does take off a little clear coat but very little. I try to polish my cars as little as possible but when they need polished I do not hesitate to polish them. Once you have it polished take steps to care for and potect the paint. There are many great threads about correct washing methods and protection your paint on the forum.
 
Thanks to all of you...you put my mind at ease. I'm going to get started next weekend since it's a 3 day weekend for me :) I can't wait!! Toto, thank you so much for the pictures. You do beautiful work. I hope I can get my Z4 shining like that :) Thanks again to all of you for your advice.
 
hydro556 said:
Toto, I wish I could follow you around and just watch for a couple of weeks. You are a master, sir. Excellent work, as usual.
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:iagree:
 
Ya know: after seeing pictures of the AutoGeek Detail Fest this year, I'm thinking of attending in 2008. I've still got tons of frequent flyer miles to burn up and a bunch of Marriott and Hertz points....I could get there pretty much as a freebie!

Now, if AutoGeek'sters can scare up a black BMW for a detail, it would be fun! I'm too old to chase those Playboy bunnies...and not sure what I'd do if I caught one! (yea, right...I used to work for Harley-Davidson so I'm sure my memory would bounce right back).

Seriously, I'm semi-planning to attend and maybe Meghan can get a vehicle to demo some rotary techniques.

Toto
 
Polish only if you have swirls or light scratches.Proper washing techniques will minimize the need for polishing.Check out Scotts sticky on washing,very informative and probably the least invasive scratching method.Invest in a leaf blower if don't have one.Its hard to scratch or swirl the paint when blow drying,plus it gets the water out of all the leaky spots.Under mirrors etc..Be careful when blow drying,it can propel small stones at a high rate of speed.:) Hope this helps,have fun!
 
Bimmergirl-welcome to the forum

If you have a question on detailing ask it the forum, there are many very experienced real world detailer's here that will give you REAL advise not myths or marketing hype
 
Toto, nice work ! How do you handle the flare at the bottom of the front fender and door and the area right under the mirror ? I assume you are using a rotary ? Also, if you are wetsanding do lose the top UV protection or is that only on factory cc ?
 
beemergirl said:
I have some questions about polishing.
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There are two questions within your post:

1) Will regular polishing wear out clear coat / paint assuming paint is within specs and polishing process is done right?

and

2) Can somebody "burn" through clear/paint when polishing?

Re # 1, that question has been debated many times on many forums and while many offered compelling logic why it will not Joe of Superior Shine went one step further and documented (I think on MOL) amounts taken off with his process using paint thickness gauge. To make long story short products he used resulted in next to nothing removal which means it would take many many years for somebody to wear down clear / paint just by regular polishing.

Re # 2, yes, it is possible when things are not done correctly or when there is something wrong with the paint. Before you set yourself off on whole car read up first how to do it right, what are pifalls to avoid (like ridges, as mentioned already), practice on flat surfaces first, and never forget to use common sense and caution.

I hope that helps, that you will enjoy it as much as, I assume, you are enjoying your car (Z4s are very nice) and of course, welcome to board.
 
Bruce B said:
Toto, nice work ! How do you handle the flare at the bottom of the front fender and door and the area right under the mirror ? I assume you are using a rotary ? Also, if you are wetsanding do lose the top UV protection or is that only on factory cc ?
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Bruce: Are you talking about the flare on the rocker panel or the recess on the bottom of the fender? Also, the area right under the mirror is taken care of by rotating the mirror housing out of the way. In both cases, I use a 6.5" wool pad because they are much easier to work with in those areas. I also use small foam pads and watch carefully so I don't catch anything.

Wetsanding: If you take wetsanding too far, you can certainly damage the clear and lose UV protection. I always paint guage my work prior to starting to determine if someone before me did wetsanding or thinning of the clear coat. In all cases, I only wetsand enough to remove light scratching as that what the process is designed for. Any "fingernail" catching scratch is a candidate for chip filling.

Toto
 
Thanks Toto, Yes, I was referring to the flare on the door and lower fron t fender just above the rocker panel.

Good luck with your polish on your Z4 Beemergirl !
 
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