Questions on Gyeon CanCoat Evo and its application

[MrOneEyedBoh]

I have Can Coat Evo set to go on my truck here soon, but I had some questions.

1. Whats the general temperature application zone(s)?
2. I plan on washing it & polishing it in one day and then that following morning - hitting it with prep and then applying the Can coat. How long does it truly take to setup/dry? Should I do multiple passes with Prep, or just one nice heavy soaking/wiping?
3. I know it says to not apply in the sun, assuming that is so the solvent doesnt flash fast. But can it get hit by the sun as the day goes on? ( after its applied? )
4. I have Gyeon Cure to use in case of rain, but Im more concerned with that morning dew that sets up on panels over night. Should I use Cure if no rain and to prevent the dew from messing it up? Im sure cure hinders crosslinking or something a little bit... no?
5. I think I read that I should have a bunch of short pile MFs on hand to keep rotating to eliminate the over saturated towel issues, true?

Any other pointers on this? Thanks!

 

[opie2]

Can coat dries fast, as far as you wipe on wipe off . Dont overapply, little goes long way.

yes use cure if any worries of any type of mosture(including dew).

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[Coatingsarecrack]

I would cure if leaving outside overnight.

For prep spray I would use once done polishing to remove and residue right away. Next day I would do a rinseless with a pure Rinseless if dusty. If not prep wipe again.

Probably overkill but worth it after putting in all that work.


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[MrOneEyedBoh]

I would cure if leaving outside overnight.

For prep spray I would use once done polishing to remove and residue right away. Next day I would do a rinseless with a pure Rinseless if dusty. If not prep wipe again.

Probably overkill but worth it after putting in all that work.


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I have 914 available. I can use that as Rinseless or even a prep spray. Although I have a big bottle of prep so I should have enough to use twice. But yeah, I did plan on using prep after polishing

 

[DFB]

I have Can Coat Evo set to go on my truck here soon, but I had some questions.

1. Whats the general temperature application zone(s)?
2. I plan on washing it & polishing it in one day and then that following morning - hitting it with prep and then applying the Can coat. How long does it truly take to setup/dry? Should I do multiple passes with Prep, or just one nice heavy soaking/wiping?
3. I know it says to not apply in the sun, assuming that is so the solvent doesnt flash fast. But can it get hit by the sun as the day goes on? ( after its applied? )
4. I have Gyeon Cure to use in case of rain, but Im more concerned with that morning dew that sets up on panels over night. Should I use Cure if no rain and to prevent the dew from messing it up? Im sure cure hinders crosslinking or something a little bit... no?
5. I think I read that I should have a bunch of short pile MFs on hand to keep rotating to eliminate the over saturated towel issues, true?

Any other pointers on this? Thanks!

Temp Range - said to be ideally applied between 59 deg to 78 deg. Either side of that will increase/decrease the working time. I applied on an 86 deg day with no issue.

Prep - I would do one, thorough hit with Gyeon Prep prior to application.

Cure Time - 12 hours before seeing water, 14 days before being washed.

Sun - Apply in a cool, shaded position. Any sun after that application is fine.

Gyeon Cure - If you are at risk of any form of moisture during the first 12 hours, then absolutely apply Cure. You will also find Cure adds some slickness to the finish which is lacking with Can Coat.

Towels - The Can Coat kit comes with a towel supplied, but it's good to have a couple extra to swap out as needed. I actually use a microfiber brick to apply Can Coat, which I find easier to manage than a folded towel. I wipe the product on with the applicator, buff with the towel.

A couple of other tips -

- You will need less product that you think. Apply a thin, "almost there" coat and remove immediately. Any more and you are simply wasting it.
- Spray the product directly into the towel/applicator and never directly onto the car.
- Move away from the vehicle when applying to the towel/applicator.
- If you have other cars close by, move them or cover them to avoid any overspray.
- When finished, run IPA or Prep through the spray head to flush the product out.

My Decon/Polish/Prep/Application of Can Coat here -

Post 133 -
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/131036-dfbs-garage-14.html#post1751118

Posts 438 & 448 -
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/131036-dfbs-garage-44.html#post1766397
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/131036-dfbs-garage-45.html#post1766440

I have 914 available. I can use that as Rinseless or even a prep spray. Although I have a big bottle of prep so I should have enough to use twice. But yeah, I did plan on using prep after polishing

Apparently 914 can be used as a paint prep, but the dilution is heavy for it to work (8:1).

The general rule of thumb is to always use the coating manufacturers prep product for optimal results. If you do need to do a rinse-less, I would still wipe with Gyeon Prep before coating.

 

[evo77]

Don't overthink it when applying Cancoat.

Per Jeff@Gyeon, this is a wipe-on-wipe-off product. It bonds instantly to the paint. This is what makes Cancoat unique and attractive - its fast, easy application. And you don't need to over apply it which is why they say that you only really need 1 towel for wipe off. If you find that your wipe off towel is smearing or not fully buffing off the residual, then your applying way too much Cancoat to the surface.

I recommend you watch these Gyeon videos and read all the comments where Gyeon answers many questions. Most of the good information is found there.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

A couple of other tips -

- You will need less product that you think. Apply a thin, "almost there" coat and remove immediately. Any more and you are simply wasting it.
- Spray the product directly into the towel/applicator and never directly onto the car.
- Move away from the vehicle when applying to the towel/applicator.
- If you have other cars close by, move them or cover them to avoid any overspray.
- When finished, run IPA or Prep through the spray head to flush the product out.

For towels, I guess any towels will work for the application and final wipe/removal? I have some short nap ones that I bought from AG a while back

Cobra 12 Pack Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloths

Im going to do two coats since the truck is white and it'll be hard to see if I missed any areas. I guess a second coat an hour later?

Im going to most likely toss on a coat of Cure right as the sun goes down so to allow the CanCoat to cure the longest time possible.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Don't overthink it when applying Cancoat.

Per Jeff@Gyeon, this is a wipe-on-wipe-off product. It bonds instantly to the paint. This is what makes Cancoat unique and attractive - its fast, easy application. And you don't need to over apply it which is why they say that you only really need 1 towel for wipe off. If you find that your wipe off towel is smearing or not fully buffing off the residual, then your applying way too much Cancoat to the surface.

I recommend you watch these Gyeon videos and read all the comments where Gyeon answers many questions. Most of the good information is found there.

Thanks, I only came across the Esoteric one when I was looking Cancoat up. Thanks for the others. I guess an hour apart for the second coat should suffice? What about the Cure coat? I plan on doing that later in the day close to sundown, as to give the Cancoat the longest time to cure as possible...

Whats your thoughts on the truck being outside in the sun while its curing? I going to try and keep it shaded but the trees might be dropping stuff ( the spring buds, flowers ) and pollen will be there too, but yeah. Seeing as its an instant bonded coating, I dont think pollen will be much of an issue. Im going to wait till early summer or so to get this done, so pollen will be lower.

 

[BudgetPlan1]

Don't overthink it when applying Cancoat.

Per Jeff@Gyeon, this is a wipe-on-wipe-off product. It bonds instantly to the paint. This is what makes Cancoat unique and attractive - its fast, easy application. And you don't need to over apply it which is why they say that you only really need 1 towel for wipe off. If you find that your wipe off towel is smearing or not fully buffing off the residual, then your applying way too much Cancoat to the surface.

This. Use it like a spray-wax, done in 10-15 minutes. Would give it to my neighbors who were used to spray-waxes from auto parts store & they’d be happy as pigs in (mud) from Spring to Fall.


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[DFB]

For towels, I guess any towels will work for the application and final wipe/removal? I have some short nap ones that I bought from AG a while back

Cobra 12 Pack Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Polishing Cloths

Im going to do two coats since the truck is white and it'll be hard to see if I missed any areas. I guess a second coat an hour later?

Im going to most likely toss on a coat of Cure right as the sun goes down so to allow the CanCoat to cure the longest time possible.

Those towels should be fine. Be sure to demote them after use though.

 

[MrOneEyedBoh]

Those towels should be fine. Be sure to demote them after use though.

I wonder if I can throw them in a strong APC bucket and then wash immediately? Will they be salvage-able?

 

[glen e]

I stop ruining towels with spray coatings by using a microfiber brick, it works just as well, and then the after wipe with a normal microfiber doesn’t harm the towel. The plastic layer bricks that are above somewhere are the hot ticket.

On a slightly different subject, I really wish the chemists that come up with these coatings, could do something like the spray blue aerosol that I use to clean my sinks, it comes out blue, and you know it has its effect after it turns white so you can rinse it down. I wish that you could spray on a coating like CanCoat, and have it be slightly chalky or something and then as it wipes down with a microfiber that would disappear. Then you could see if you had any hi spots or spots where you just missed it all together.

 

[DFB]

I wonder if I can throw them in a strong APC bucket and then wash immediately? Will they be salvage-able?

You can, but I don't personally risk it. I generally demote them to the rag pile/oil changes/machine maintenance ect.

 

[opie2]

I wonder if I can throw them in a strong APC bucket and then wash immediately? Will they be salvage-able?

Ive used wipe off coating towels many times, including can coat.

Pure evo however has left hard spots on my towels. But after i realized that i soaked them right away in towel kleen, washed at a later date. No issues since.

I bet an apc would serve the same result.

You just have to like always...inspect your towels after every wash.

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[MrOneEyedBoh]

Whats your thoughts on a wipe between coats? There is going to inevitably have some pollen settling on the paint between the first coat and second coat. Should I just leave it as is and just roll with another coat?

 

[Bruno Soares]

I stop ruining towels with spray coatings by using a microfiber brick, it works just as well, and then the after wipe with a normal microfiber doesn’t harm the towel. The plastic layer bricks that are above somewhere are the hot ticket.

On a slightly different subject, I really wish the chemists that come up with these coatings, could do something like the spray blue aerosol that I use to clean my sinks, it comes out blue, and you know it has its effect after it turns white so you can rinse it down. I wish that you could spray on a coating like CanCoat, and have it be slightly chalky or something and then as it wipes down with a microfiber that would disappear. Then you could see if you had any hi spots or spots where you just missed it all together.

Adam's has some coating that reacts to UV light and then you can see if there's a spot you still have to wipe off. I haven't tried it so I can't say how well that really works.

 

[The Guz]

Whats your thoughts on a wipe between coats? There is going to inevitably have some pollen settling on the paint between the first coat and second coat. Should I just leave it as is and just roll with another coat?

Only 1 layer is needed. If it’s going to get pollen then wait until the first wash. Pollen is abrasive.

No harsh chemicals should be used on a fresh layer including a panel wipe.

 

[DanaDetailingPros]

Stupid question but I also live near you Guz and what does our pollen look like? I have a fresh dark redish dust all over after a day of siting. 3 days. Forgetaboutit!

 

[Eldorado2k]

Stupid question but I also live near you Guz and what does our pollen look like? I have a fresh dark redish dust all over after a day of siting. 3 days. Forgetaboutit!

I’m in LA and I’m not sure if I’ve ever experienced pollen. But I can show you what smog & refineries do to contaminate some paint. Lol.

 

[opie2]

I’m in LA and I’m not sure if I’ve ever experienced pollen. But I can show you what smog & refineries do to contaminate some paint. Lol.

But yinz are supossed to be the "green" state...no? With the most strick emissions and all that feel good jazz. Figured the air out there was so clean...i can smell the malarky from the other side of the country

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