Questions regarding glaze + sealant..

FUNX650 said:
No it will not.

******************************************




And, IMO:
there's no need to use that
glaze anywhere in your above
overall detailing processes.



Bob
Click to expand...

Wow. I wasted $24 then....
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
If added shine and gloss is your overall goal then you will need to polish the paint to remove below surface defects (.
Click to expand...

100% this..
to the OP.......I also have a white car and intilaly when new I cleaned and polished the paint (car pro reflect) to set a datum.. and it was ok and glossy, but the orange peel was always going to be the limiting factor on the sharpness of reflection and hence the gloss..
I'm half way through removing the peel now and the improvment is noticeable... getting the base as good as you can is key... even more so on white paint... with some poorboys white diamond and a single coat of collinite 845, I have a clean (as in brighter white) glossy and importantly durable finish at last.... shame i still have about 30 more hours of peel corection ahead of me.. on top of the 15 this last 2 weeks.. )...
 
shadwell said:
100% this..
to the OP.......I also have a white car and intilaly when new I cleaned and polished the paint (car pro reflect) to set a datum.. and it was ok and glossy, but the orange peel was always going to be the limiting factor on the sharpness of reflection and hence the gloss..
I'm half way through removing the peel now and the improvment is noticeable... getting the base as good as you can is key... even more so on white paint... with some poorboys white diamond and a single coat of collinite 845, I have a clean (as in brighter white) glossy and importantly durable finish at last.... shame i still have about 30 more hours of peel corection ahead of me.. on top of the 15 this last 2 weeks.. )...
Click to expand...

Looks like my car has to be detailed by a professional soon...

In the meantime, I will try Poorboy's White Diamond
 
So....

Can I apply polish by hand to remove glaze and sealants from 3 days ago, and then move straight ahead to applying new coat of sealant? Is this how it works? Can I apply polish even though there still is some sealant residue left on the car's surface? Or should I wash the car before applying polish, or wipe the car down with QD?

Furthermore, should I wash the car after applying polish and before applying sealant?
 
E93to said:
I read those, but this is too much in depth for amateur/beginner detailer like me... So, what polish should I use? Can I use Meguiars - Meguiars Ultimate Polish, meguiars car polish, meguiars polishes, mcguire's
Click to expand...

The last section of that article seems pretty straightforward to me, and it answers your question about stripping directly.

Personal Recommendation For Removing Waxes and Paint Sealants

To remove any previously applied wax or paint sealant, I recommend using a light paint cleaner or a light polish applied by hand or machine. [emphasis mine] A light paint cleaner or abrasive polish will effectively remove any previously applied wax or paint sealant AND leave the paint looking clear and glossy. I call this working forward in the process because the goal is to create beauty.

Chemically stripping the paint will tend to dull the paint; it certainly doesn't increase gloss and clarity. You don't see the dulling effect unless you're working on black paint and repeat the process multiple times. Since not everyone works on black paint, and you're not going to make stripping your car's paint a daily routine, it could be you won't see the dulling effect on your car's paint but it does take place.

Wiping a clear coated black finish over and over and over again with any type of solvent isn't going to make the top clear layer of paint more and more clear, it's going to do the opposite, that is dull it down.

So chemically stripping paint is what I call working backwards in the process. I, personally, prefer to work forwards in all my detailing projects but do understand the reasons why some people want to chemically strip their car's paint, or their customer's car's paint, and each person can decide what the best approach is for their needs.

And again, since you're not chemically stripping the paint as a "practice" but only during a detailing session, the dulling effect is not an issue, but I wanted to point it out just for the most detail oriented detailing enthusiasts or Pro Detailers reading this article.
Click to expand...

There's an art to this kind of work. It takes knowledge to get superior results, along with whatever materials & tools are used. There's a lot of helpful information here, but it takes time to absorb it, and practice to employ it successfully. Good luck! :xyxthumbs:
 
scuff said:
The last section of that article seems pretty straightforward to me, and it answers your question about stripping directly.



There's an art to this kind of work. It takes knowledge to get superior results, along with whatever materials & tools are used. There's a lot of helpful information here, but it takes time to absorb it, and practice to employ it successfully. Good luck! :xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...

I have some more questions....

Can I apply polish by hand to remove glaze and sealant?

Should I wash the car prior to applying polish (my car still has sealant residue)?

Should I wash the car after applying polish and before applying new coats of sealant?
 
Just bought Meguiars Ultimate Polish. In addition to questions on post #45, I have a couple of more questions:

How many times should I apply the polish to completely remove the glaze and sealant?

Should I rub against the car's surface hard? Or can I just lightly rub against the car's surface?

Thanks in advance
 
E93to said:
Will using dish/laundry detergent remove all the glaze and sealant I applied? And then can I apply the sealant right away without Iron X and claybar?
Click to expand...

Dish/laundry detergent will NOT remove sealants and waxes. The only way to assure you have removed them is with a mild polish or dedicated paint cleaner with mild abrasives.
 
ski2 said:
Dish/laundry detergent will NOT remove sealants and waxes. The only way to assure you have removed them is with a mild polish or dedicated paint cleaner with mild abrasives.
Click to expand...

Is Meguiars Ultimate Polish considered "mild" polish?
 
Will applying polish by hand remove fresh glaze and 2 coats of sealant I applied 5 days ago?

Should I wash my car before applying polish? My car still has sealant residue

How many times should I polish my car to completely remove glaze and sealant? Is once enough?

Should I run against the car's surface hard when applying polish? Or will lightly rubbing against the car's surface be enough to remove glaze and sealant? Will rubbing against the car's surface hard remove clear coat?

After applying polish and buffing it off, should I move straight ahead to applying Klasse sealant? Or should I wash the car before applying the sealant?

Thanks so much in advance. I really appreciate it
 
E93to said:
Will applying polish by hand remove fresh glaze and 2 coats of sealant I applied 5 days ago?

Should I wash my car before applying polish? My car still has sealant residue

How many times should I polish my car to completely remove glaze and sealant? Is once enough?

Should I run against the car's surface hard when applying polish? Or will lightly rubbing against the car's surface be enough to remove glaze and sealant? Will rubbing against the car's surface hard remove clear coat?

After applying polish and buffing it off, should I move straight ahead to applying Klasse sealant? Or should I wash the car before applying the sealant?

Thanks so much in advance. I really appreciate it
Click to expand...
Wowzie...Where to begin?
{I thought we'd already been
through all of this...}

Honestly:
Sounds like you need to jack-up
the steering wheel...and then
slide a different car back under it.


Bob
 
Mr E93to,


I may have missed it reading this thread but it may be helpful to inform the forum as to what year and make of vehicle you are working on, it may help in advising you concerning your method of polishing with regard to the paint system. Not all clear coats are created equal, some require a heavier hand some a more gentle touch when engaging in paint correction if you are following that path.

In general you do not need to 'grind' on the surface when simply removing any LSP by polishing, the film is too thin and fragile to compete with any form of physical or chemical abrasion applied in any meaningful manner. A firm yet gentle and even application will successfully remove any LSP.

It is always wise to perform a 'maintenance wash' prior to a 'correction', as any resident sand, dust, bug strikes, etc. particles can easily become scratch causing agents which inhibit the polishing step, but the choice is always yours.

A thorough conscientious application of a mild polish will be enough to remove the LSP.

After polishing the paint surface you can utilize your 30/70 mix of IPA/water to cleanse the surface of dusting and/or polish oil residues to check your work to determine if you wish to make another application of the polishing step.

You can wash it again if you feel it needs it, some do some dont when performing a correction or you can move to the application of the LSP.

You can apply polishes by hand, some are engineered for hand application, some are engineered for machine application, they will work both ways but not as well outside their usage intentions.

Griot's Garage Paint Glaze and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze are slightly different products. Griot's Garage Paint Glaze is solely for the purpose of hiding mild imperfections before applying an LSP, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze hides mild imperfections in the paint system and also has a LSP engineered in, and a strong one at that.

Griot's Garage Paint Glaze would be utilized pre-Collinite 845 for hiding minor swirls/scatches if that is your goal. Utilizing Griot's Garage Paint Glaze with Klasse HGSG would be redundant and simply performing double the labor for the same result with additional waste of product.

Any paint 'glaze' is for the purpose of filling in and 'hiding' mild imperfections pre-LSP so the paint system looks uniformly smooth and therefore glossy once the LSP is applied over the glaze application, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze performs the function of Glaze + Sealant.

Applying a paint glaze post-LSP serves no purpose at all as the LSP itself would already reside within the swirls and scratches therefore denying the glaze its function.

Applying more than 2 coats of an LSP is wasteful and begins the process of 'working-backward' by unecessary contact with the paint system. It is important to remember that overworking the paint system can be just as damaging if not moreso than leaving it to Mother Nature's tender mercies.

Of course there are those who enjoy the therapeutic nature of detailing beyond a point but I dont see that as being the case here.


Steve
 
FUNX650 said:
Wowzie...Where to begin?
{I thought we'd already been
through all of this...}

Honestly:
Sounds like you need to jack-up
the steering wheel...and then
slide a different car back under it.


Bob
Click to expand...

I don't think anyone answered those questions regarding polish. I have never used polish before, so I want to be very careful.
 
zx10r Elle said:
Mr E93to,


I may have missed it reading this thread but it may be helpful to inform the forum as to what year and make of vehicle you are working on, it may help in advising you concerning your method of polishing with regard to the paint system. Not all clear coats are created equal, some require a heavier hand some a more gentle touch when engaging in paint correction if you are following that path.

In general you do not need to 'grind' on the surface when simply removing any LSP by polishing, the film is too thin and fragile to compete with any form of physical or chemical abrasion applied in any meaningful manner. A firm yet gentle and even application will successfully remove any LSP.

It is always wise to perform a 'maintenance wash' prior to a 'correction', as any resident sand, dust, bug strikes, etc. particles can easily become scratch causing agents which inhibit the polishing step, but the choice is always yours.

A thorough conscientious application of a mild polish will be enough to remove the LSP.

After polishing the paint surface you can utilize your 30/70 mix of IPA/water to cleanse the surface of dusting and/or polish oil residues to check your work to determine if you wish to make another application of the polishing step.

You can wash it again if you feel it needs it, some do some dont when performing a correction or you can move to the application of the LSP.

You can apply polishes by hand, some are engineered for hand application, some are engineered for machine application, they will work both ways but not as well outside their usage intentions.

Griot's Garage Paint Glaze and Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze are slightly different products. Griot's Garage Paint Glaze is solely for the purpose of hiding mild imperfections before applying an LSP, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze hides mild imperfections in the paint system and also has a LSP engineered in, and a strong one at that.

Griot's Garage Paint Glaze would be utilized pre-Collinite 845 for hiding minor swirls/scatches if that is your goal. Utilizing Griot's Garage Paint Glaze with Klasse HGSG would be redundant and simply performing double the labor for the same result with additional waste of product.

Any paint 'glaze' is for the purpose of filling in and 'hiding' mild imperfections pre-LSP so the paint system looks uniformly smooth and therefore glossy once the LSP is applied over the glaze application, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze performs the function of Glaze + Sealant.

Applying a paint glaze post-LSP serves no purpose at all as the LSP itself would already reside within the swirls and scratches therefore denying the glaze its function.

Applying more than 2 coats of an LSP is wasteful and begins the process of 'working-backward' by unecessary contact with the paint system. It is important to remember that overworking the paint system can be just as damaging if not moreso than leaving it to Mother Nature's tender mercies.

Of course there are those who enjoy the therapeutic nature of detailing beyond a point but I dont see that as being the case here.


Steve
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. My car is 2011 E93. Mar car has been detailed twice a year since 2011. But this year I decided to use some different products.
 
You don't need IPA for the detail process you are performing.

I think this thread is potentially making things more complicated. The process can be dramatically simplified as follows:

1. Wash
2. Decon (clay, ironx, tarx etc.)
3. Polish
4. Protection (wax or sealant)

Forget about multiple coats of wax or glaze or anything like that... it will just be a waste of time. If you really want to start layering products do a test spot on one panel and make sure they place nice with each other before doing the entire car.
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
You don't need IPA for the detail process you are performing.

I think this thread is potentially making things more complicated. The process can be dramatically simplified as follows:

1. Wash
2. Decon (clay, ironx, tarx etc.)
3. Polish
4. Protection (wax or sealant)

Forget about multiple coats of wax or glaze or anything like that... it will just be a waste of time. If you really want to start layering products do a test spot on one panel and make sure they place nice with each other before doing the entire car.
Click to expand...

Agreed. Whatever is done needs to be planned and executed in the correct order or the end result will suffer.

I'm not a professional detailer, but I have some experience with similar processes in machining. Much like his forum posts, I found Mike Phillips' Show Car Shine book to be informative and useful, as well as written in an approachable manner for the novice. It helped me fill in some knowledge gaps, too. I highly recommend it to Mr. E93to, again. If the $15 eBook fee is too onerous, some of the threads I referenced earlier (and some of the posts from Nicholas and others) have good information about proceeding in an systematic way towards a good result. A good plan will take into account how the various products work together, and what processes are required to improve the paint with those products.

I'd plug products/processes into the basic plan that Nicholas provided, post that detailed plan here, and see what the mob thinks before starting again.
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
You don't need IPA for the detail process you are performing.

I think this thread is potentially making things more complicated. The process can be dramatically simplified as follows:

1. Wash
2. Decon (clay, ironx, tarx etc.)
3. Polish
4. Protection (wax or sealant)

Forget about multiple coats of wax or glaze or anything like that... it will just be a waste of time. If you really want to start layering products do a test spot on one panel and make sure they place nice with each other before doing the entire car.
Click to expand...

Now I'm confused. Other posters asked me to skip decon. So should I use claybar and Ironx before I apply polish?

I did drive my car around since last week (the car was out of the garage 3 times, total of maybe 20 miles or so). Would that have contaminated the car?
 
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