Reccomend a Wax over Sealant for me. Or Not?

Bill D said:
Some people do an IPA wipe down or a silicone remover after polishing to check their work to see if any swirls or micromarring are left behind. Then they apply their LSP. All depends how many steps you want to do.
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That’s a valid point, but at the same time if 100% paint correction is what I’m after, then I’ll usually be working with a compound. I personally see a polish as more of a way to make the paint as beautiful and shiny as possible.

While it does have the ability to fully correct paint in some cases, I don’t see it as such a dealbreaker where I would sacrifice its final result in order to remove any of its goodness just to check if it fully corrected the paint to perfection. I trust that it’s done what I wanted it to do and I’ve never been let down. *knock on wood*
 
Eldorado2k said:
That’s a valid point, but at the same time if 100% paint correction is what I’m after, then I’ll usually be working with a compound. I personally see a polish as more of a way to make the paint as beautiful and shiny as possible.

While it does have the ability to fully correct paint in some cases, I don’t see it as such a dealbreaker where I would sacrifice its final result in order to remove any of its goodness just to check if it fully corrected the paint to perfection. I trust that it’s done what I wanted it to do and I’ve never been let down. *knock on wood*
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I'm very thankful so many of you have chimed in to offer advice. Thank you. I thought that an IPA wipe or Gyeon prep what have you was necessary after the polishing step in order to get proper adhesion when applying the Sealant. Thanks to all of your help I think that would have been unnecessary and actually counter productive. Al
 
shineocd said:
I'm very thankful so many of you have chimed in to offer advice. Thank you. I thought that an IPA wipe or Gyeon prep what have you was necessary after the polishing step in order to get proper adhesion when applying the Sealant. Thanks to all of your help I think that would have been unnecessary and actually counter productive. Al
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The IPA or paint prep is important if you’re going to be applying a ceramic coating, but when it comes to synthetic sealants it’s pretty much a non issue.
 
I learned long ago to remove polishing oils to inspect for left over marring. I don’t use IPA because it’s my understanding it might not be able to remove all of them. I use a dedicated silicone/polish remover before applying my LSP but that’s just me. I suppose you could skip this step but I don’t want to risk marring “returning” later on because it was never originally removed.
 
have been using powerlock for a few years and never felt it needed anything over the top. I think once you're done with all that work you can easily convince yourself that the rich shine is great and the extra work isn't needed.
 
Bill D said:
Some people do an IPA wipe down or a silicone remover after polishing to check their work to see if any swirls or micromarring are left behind.
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I do this for my TEST SPOT. If the test spot results are good then there's no reason to chemically strip the entire car if you're going to use a traditional wax or synthetic paint sealant. This assumes >you< do the same great work to the rest of the car that you did to the test spot.

:)
 
And then there's this little info piece I wrote about 9 years ago the second time. The first version is on MOL somewhere...


Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding


Sheldon explaining Quantum Physics to Penny on the Big Bang Theory
molculesbonding.jpg





:)
 
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