First,
Welcome to Autogeek Online! :welcome:
Friendliest and most helpful detailing discussion forum on the Internet...
This last deer hunt i got a lot of brush scratches from sage brush and oak brush and such, the truck much worse than the SUV.
I tried buffing out the truck with my porter cable 7424 with a yellow smart pad and Meguiars Ultimate Compound. It made the truck shiny but didn't remove the brush scratches.
Chances are very good you removed all the shallow scratches and this highlighted or revealed all the deeper scratches that remain and now they stand out like a sore thumb. See this article,
RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...
I then tried using my Porter Cable 7428 rotary with a wool pad and Meguiars Heavy Cut cleaner. Again it made it shiny but didnt remove scratches.
That's pretty aggressive.
Im thinking now of buying Menzerna Power Gloss compound and using my rotary with yellow foam pad and chasing with Menzerna final polish.
My question is is how aggressive is this combo and can i use my same 6.5" pads on my rotary that i use on my orbital (with the proper backing pad of course)?
The compound is aggressive but the foam won't be near as aggressive as the wool pad. This combo is probably about as aggressive or less than the #4 with the wool pad on your rotary that also didn't work.
Or should i try the meguiars 105-205 combo?
M105 and M205 are SMAT products and the M105 is a very good compound in that it's aggressive but finishes out like a polish.
Some of my scratches are pretty deep and can feel them with my finger nail. I know i wont be able to get rid of those but would like to at least get rid of most of the others.
Factory paint is thin and hard. Hold a 3M Post-it Note between your fingers and imagine the clear layer of paint being thinner than this...
I wet sanded one section with 1200 grit followed by 2000 and that kinda worked but was a lot of work and I worry about going through the clear coat. I appreciate everyones help.
#1200 grit paper is really aggressive, especially if it's just an regular automotive wet/dry paper.
Sanding, then sanding again and then buffing with a compound and a polish, all these steps are taking the clear layer off the paint. Be very careful anywhere you've sanded with #1200 at this point.
All the UV protection is in the clear layer of paint, the more you remove the less protection you have. You might remove the scratches only to have these vehicles suffer clearcoat failure down the road due to too thin of paint.
No easy answer as to how to undo the damage safely and without risk.
See these articles,
Wetsanding - Fresh Paint vs Factory Paint
The practical differences between single stage paints and a clear coat paints
See my comments on page 2 of this thread
Beginning Clearcoat Failure
