Removing minor dieback

I'm a hardcore fan of the microfiber pads until you go for that mirror gloss on a dark colored vehicle. On light colored paint the microfiber gets it done from start to finish but I'm far from being an expert so I'd wait for a few more people to weigh in.
 
The Meguiar's maroon cutting pad on my PC and Meguiar's Ultimate Compound "got-r-done". I had no marring that I could see, but I still followed up with a polishing pad and Ultimate Polish. Then a coat of Ultimate Wax.

I'm not quite sure of what caused the minor paint problem but this procedure worked in fixing it. A couple of things. The body shop had already sanded the hood with Trizact 3000 (but not aggressively) and then buffed the hood with a light polish. That took care of part of the problem.

If I were to do this again, I'd do a little more work with Trizact 3000 or Unigrit 3000. (I don't know which is the better product, but I have used the Unigrit paper before.) I'd also break out my rotary buffer even though I haven't had a reason to use it for over five years and am a bit out practice. I had to use the PC in a darn aggressive manner to get the results I wanted.

I could probably do a bit more correction, but I remember some advice given a long time ago by the guy who ran Meguiar's Online at the time :xyxthumbs: ..... "Sometimes it's a good idea to quit when the results look 'good enough'."

Thanks for the suggestions.

Tom :cool:
 
tguil said:
The Meguiar's maroon cutting pad on my PC and Meguiar's Ultimate Compound "got-r-done". I had no marring that I could see, but I still followed up with a polishing pad and Ultimate Polish. Then a coat of Ultimate Wax.

I'm not quite sure of what caused the minor paint problem but this procedure worked in fixing it. A couple of things. The body shop had already sanded the hood with Trizact 3000 (but not aggressively) and then buffed the hood with a light polish. That took care of part of the problem.

If I were to do this again, I'd do a little more work with Trizact 3000 or Unigrit 3000. (I don't know which is the better product, but I have used the Unigrit paper before.) I'd also break out my rotary buffer even though I haven't had a reason to use it for over five years and am a bit out practice. I had to use the PC in a darn aggressive manner to get the results I wanted.

I could probably do a bit more correction, but I remember some advice given a long time ago by the guy who ran Meguiar's Online at the time :xyxthumbs: ..... "Sometimes it's a good idea to quit when the results look 'good enough'."

Thanks for the suggestions.

Tom :cool:
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Thats interesting, the maroon cutting pad left no hazing or marring after? Thats crazy. That pad isnt recommended for use with a DA per Megs. How hard is your paint?
 
CM8 6MT said:
Thats interesting, the maroon cutting pad left no hazing or marring after? Thats crazy. That pad isnt recommended for use with a DA per Megs. How hard is your paint?
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I think Mike was a little conservative about those pads when he worked at Meg's. I've used them with a PC on GM clear and 80's Ford single-stage red and not had any issues, but those weren't exactly show cars to begin with.
 
This truck is white so marring is more difficult to see. However, I used the maroon pads on a PC when I had my black trucks. Never any marring. However, I only used the maroon pad for serious corrections. Once I took out 2000 grit sanding marks on one of the black trucks using a PC with the maroon pad and Meguiar's #83.

Tom :cool:
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Well, you know Mike always discouraged the use of that maroon pad back when he worked for Meguiar's...or do you have one of the new 2.0 pads?
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I actually wrote the copy for the 2.0 Pads for the forum and in my original copy the pads were recommended for use on a DA Polisher. Management then decided that because this pad is aggressive enough to leave marring on softer paints that the official recommendation would be removed (that the pad could be used with a DA), and replaced with a recommendation to test first.


tguil said:
I could probably do a bit more correction, but I remember some advice given a long time ago by the guy who ran Meguiar's Online at the time :xyxthumbs: ..... "Sometimes it's a good idea to quit when the results look 'good enough'."
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And that's still true today except there are so many new and better products on the market that it's just a matter of testing to find the perfect combo of pad/product/technique to create the perfect finish.


Setec Astronomy said:
I think Mike was a little conservative about those pads when he worked at Meg's.
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I was just sticking to the official message... here's the original thread I created with the official recommendation at that time. Keep in mind some of the new products with the new abrasive technology had not been introduced yet. Like I keep posting,

I've seen more new products introduced in the last few years than in all my life in this industry...

W7207 Washable Foam Cutting Pad

Mike Phillips said:
NOTE: The official recommendation for this new cutting pad is for use with a rotary buffer only. That said we know that a lot of people will use this with a dual action polisher and in most cases if you keep your speeds at or below the 5.0 speed setting it can be an effective cutting pad in addition to your choice of compound, paint cleaner, cleaner/polish or cleaner/wax.

If you choose to use this new cutting pad with a dual action polisher please do a test spot first with your products of choice and inspect the results to make sure you're getting the results you're looking for and if not then stop your process until you can dial in a process that does produce the results you're looking for.

There are many pant systems on the market both OEM and Refinishing, (Auto Body Shops), and each paint system can react differently to different levels of aggressiveness when it comes to pad and product selection. In some cases a cutting pad will remove the defects faster and more effectively but in order to create an acceptable finish you may have to do a second cleaning/polishing step using a less aggressive pad and product before going to wax.

So always perform a test spot first and dial in an acceptable process for your car's paint system before going over the entire car.


PLEASE REMEMBER: When you use a "foam cutting pad" on a D/A, you certainly increase the defect removal BUT you also increase the risk of hazing or micro marring on certain finishes. Both defect removal ability and hazing/micro marring depends on the paint, the user, and the product. Unfortunately, there is no absolute in this arena.
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:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I've seen more new products introduced in the last few years than in all my life in this industry...
:)
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I agree.:iagree: There's so many coming out that sometimes I think it's the exact same product released in different brand bottles.
 
Man I almost hate offering anything here because Mike has offerded his sage advise. Come on he's "Mike". ANyway, why would the paint shop not fix this problem? Sounds like they are a high quality shop and recognize a quality control issue. Even if they have to respray it. Usually these shops just want to get it right anad move on.

For a respray 3000 grit is pretty conservative to fix this problem. It should work but I would think going a little stronger 2000 followed by 3000 makes the final buffing easier.Most painters lay down clear much thicker than any factoy finish and that may have led to the cause of the problem given temperture / humidity issues mentioned earlier.

I'm interested in the outcome.
 
kennymathews said:
I performed a correction like this not too long ago...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/63097-dodge-avenger-sand-buff-after-bodyshop.html
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Your pics show exactly what my truck looked like before the correction. It was OK when I picked it up. Then the "pinching" showed up after a couple of weeks. A couple of pinholes also appeared. Either with my correction with a pc or the shop's correction with sanding discs and a rotary with a wool pad, there is a slight (darn small) scuff in the clear coat that appears to go through the base. Neither the shop owner of I am sure. The paint job looks OK now and the owner assured me that any future problems with be taken care of under the lifetime guarantee. For sure, I don't want any more painting done until it needs it.
 
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