I think that the McKees 37 Coating Prep Wash is too strong. It's made for being used to break down LSP and not cleaning them like Reset. IIRC Guz used this on a coating and it took a massive hit on it. If you are going to try to keep the CQUK as good as possible I would not use the Coating Prep Wash.
Switch the Coating Prep Wash and eraser to a Reset wash and maybe with the double dilution of it. When you are going to reapply the the topper in mind a Reset wash followed by a Eraser wipe down to get any oil based residue left on the paint off. Is what I would be doing.
I see where Bob gets his wondering about the SiO2 in the toppers are bonding to the SiO2 in CQUK coating. And in theory and claims this is why they have the Reload and in a way EcH2O also. To get the protection topped up and maybe ad with a bond or it's chemically reacts with the CQUK layer. This is on a microscopic level how this works. That's why I also mentioned that you may not be able to get the hydrophobic caractics of CQUK back. As it could have been comprimised with the protection of SiO2 in the toppers. When they are used to often.
The question I have generally speaking is if you are planning to use a topper regualary on a ceramic coating. Is the ceramic coating even needed to be used? You get the topper to build up a good protection on it's own if applyied on bare paint. The same will happens if you have a ceramic coating that you top up often. The question gets if the topper on it's own is enough for protection from something like bird droppings and such. Or will a bird dropping etch throw easier and more if only used the topper vs coating and the topper. Or will the topper on it's own be able to protect your paint from etching from bird droppings and water spots. So it's on the topper the etching or if it's to weak and need a coating under it to protect enough. Or maybe both of these gets etched down to the paint it self. If you have very coarse etching problems. Feels like the ceramic coating gets a better than sorry product with a high use of toppers. Just some thoughts about it from me LOL.
Switch the Coating Prep Wash and eraser to a Reset wash and maybe with the double dilution of it. When you are going to reapply the the topper in mind a Reset wash followed by a Eraser wipe down to get any oil based residue left on the paint off. Is what I would be doing.
I see where Bob gets his wondering about the SiO2 in the toppers are bonding to the SiO2 in CQUK coating. And in theory and claims this is why they have the Reload and in a way EcH2O also. To get the protection topped up and maybe ad with a bond or it's chemically reacts with the CQUK layer. This is on a microscopic level how this works. That's why I also mentioned that you may not be able to get the hydrophobic caractics of CQUK back. As it could have been comprimised with the protection of SiO2 in the toppers. When they are used to often.
The question I have generally speaking is if you are planning to use a topper regualary on a ceramic coating. Is the ceramic coating even needed to be used? You get the topper to build up a good protection on it's own if applyied on bare paint. The same will happens if you have a ceramic coating that you top up often. The question gets if the topper on it's own is enough for protection from something like bird droppings and such. Or will a bird dropping etch throw easier and more if only used the topper vs coating and the topper. Or will the topper on it's own be able to protect your paint from etching from bird droppings and water spots. So it's on the topper the etching or if it's to weak and need a coating under it to protect enough. Or maybe both of these gets etched down to the paint it self. If you have very coarse etching problems. Feels like the ceramic coating gets a better than sorry product with a high use of toppers. Just some thoughts about it from me LOL.
