Removing Type I & II water marks on thin paint

I just re-read the thread and looked at the pictures... and yes indeed you have some what I call...

Whisper Thin Paint
primerpeekingoutofpaint.jpg






So if you want to,

"Taking your car's paint to it's maximum potential"


Then you want to,

"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"



So what all do you have for products with correction ability?


:)
 
if its really thin you might just want to sand it and re-spray. if its single stage its pretty simple.

as long as you use the proper sanding techniques it will come out pretty smooth. and if it doesnt make sure you do a few coats of color, build it up. not only will it get smooth with each coat (careful not to do it too soon, it will run) but once dry you can eventually sand it smooth and buff it.

I just painted a bumper for my car in base clear and this week i am going to be sanding and buffing the orange peel out. i put a lot of clear on it so that i wouldn't have to worry about sanding through especially on a curvy bumper.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I just re-read the thread and looked at the pictures... and yes indeed you have some what I call...

Whisper Thin Paint


So what all do you have for products with correction ability?


:)
Click to expand...

hey Mike,

In your piece "Use the least aggressive product to get the job done" you mention:

"A well rounded inventory would include,

  • Aggressive Compound for serious paint defects
  • Medium Cut Polish
  • Light Cut Polish
  • Finishing Polish
  • Hand applied paint cleaner
  • Cleaner/Wax
  • Non abrasive glaze or pure polish"
I possess:

  • Aggressive Compound for serious paint defects OPTIMUM COMPOUND II
  • Medium Cut Polish OPTIMUM POLISH II
  • Light Cut Polish OPTIMUM POLISH II (?)
  • Finishing Polish NONE
  • Hand applied paint cleaner P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser
  • Cleaner/Wax KLASSE AIO
  • Non abrasive glaze or pure polish 3M IMPERIAL HAND GLAZE
I own a 7424XP if that matters. Yesterday I washed the Bimmer and by hand applied KAIO, followed by Collinite 845. It didn't affect the water marks as best as I could tell. I'd like to try to eliminate the water marks on the trunk lid with any of these products--or others you might recommend. (I won't have access to a computer after 9am tomorrow morning, until Thursday evening.)


http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...se-least-aggressive-product-get-job-done.html
 
stevehecht said:
Yesterday I washed the Bimmer and by hand applied KAIO, followed by Collinite 845. It didn't affect the water marks as best as I could tell.
Click to expand...


KAIO is a non-abrasive cleaner/sealant, if hand applying this product with a little passion behind the pad had no effect then it's pretty safe to assume you have Type II Water Spots and you're going to have to use something with a little more bite.


stevehecht said:
I'd like to try to eliminate the water marks on the trunk lid with any of these products--or others you might recommend.
Click to expand...

I think the Optimum Polish II would work with your DA Polisher, since the primary problem is thin paint, and the secondary problem is water spots, maybe try the Optimum Polish II with a finishing pad first and see if a gentle approach will remove the water spots without exposing primer.

If not then you'll need to try a polishing pad and try to get them out with this approach and if that doesn't work then you'll have to get more aggressive.

Because your car's paint is thin, you might end up having to live with them because to remove them will mean exposing primer.

Tuff situation...


:)
 
Thanks Mike. I'll use the OP II and start with the red pad, then to the white, then move to the orange, then to the cyan. As I get more aggressive with the pads I'll back off on the pressure and the speed. Use the speed dialed in at 5-6 for the red/white, then go to 4-5 with the orange, and 3-4 for the cyan just to make sure I don't take off too much paint. I hope that makes sense.
 
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