Removing wax

Excessive Detail

Excessive Detail

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Whats the best way to remove old waxes and sealants to start of with a fresh surface? Does claying the paint remove anything? I heard alchol does this, I'm not sure. You people are the experts.
Thanks
 
Claying removes some! Except the new Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay. Any polishes, pre wax cleaners, Apc, and even Tarminator.
 
Washing with Dawn diswashing liquid has been a long standing tradition among detailers to strip oils and waxes off the car. However, it isn't really necessary if you are going to be using any type of polish or prewax paint cleaner anyway. I would just wash the car with normal wash and clay & polish as you normally would. The clay will help remove some and the polish will get rid of the rest.
 
Theres a couple commercial versions available, 3M's Wax and Adhesive Remover, Acysol, Prepsol, Griots Paint Prep and surely others. For a homemade remedy simply use 70% isoporyl alcohol to 30% water.

I will keep my mouth closed on Dawn, other than to say dishwashing liquid should never be used in detailing. Other choices exist. And Dawn will not make a dent in a sealant, just some (maybe all) of a carnuaba wax.

If you plan on using an abrasive polish, then really no need for any of the items listed above.
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
Theres a couple commercial versions available, 3M's Wax and Adhesive Remover, Acysol, Prepsol, Griots Paint Prep and surely others. For a homemade remedy simply use 70% isoporyl alcohol to 30% water.

I will keep my mouth closed on Dawn, other than to say dishwashing liquid should never be used in detailing. Other choices exist. And Dawn will not make a dent in a sealant, just some (maybe all) of a carnuaba wax.

If you plan on using an abrasive polish, then really no need for any of the items listed above.
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Well lets say you just wanted to strip your wax to start fresh (after a coat, say, of Megs 81), but your surface was good (lets say you had clayed and used Megs 80 recently), would you use the IP/water mix to take it down, or would you use a cleaner product, and if so which one?
 
BlackCoupe said:
Well lets say you just wanted to strip your wax to start fresh (after a coat, say, of Megs 81), but your surface was good (lets say you had clayed and used Megs 80 recently), would you use the IP/water mix to take it down, or would you use a cleaner product, and if so which one?
Click to expand...

The better question is to decide what I will be using next. Keep in mind as a carnuaba I would probably pick Pinnacles or P21S paintcleaning agent. With the light fillers it would be a nice combo. That said, a sealant would not like the oils and fillers in these paint cleaning products, so I would use my special rub (alcohol/water).
 
killrwheels@autogeek said:
The better question is to decide what I will be using next. Keep in mind as a carnuaba I would probably pick Pinnacles or P21S paintcleaning agent. With the light fillers it would be a nice combo. That said, a sealant would not like the oils and fillers in these paint cleaning products, so I would use my special rub (alcohol/water).
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I haven't decided if I can see a difference yet, but after the 81, I would use Meg's Mirror Glaze 16 and top with 26 the next day, or use Souverans paste wax. I haven't tried topping that with anything.


While I have your attention, is repainted clear coat usually a lot softer than original factory clear coat, as a general rule?
 
BlackCoupe said:
While I have your attention, is repainted clear coat usually a lot softer than original factory clear coat, as a general rule?
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Thats probably a question better left for a body man. I personally dont think so. Clearcoat is simply paint that is unpigmented. As such when it fully cures it really comes down to how much clearcoat (one coat, two coat) versus soft/hard. Now a shop that does not bake a clearcoat might be quite a bit softer initially. Most of the industry suggests 90days max for curing and proper outgassing. Factory paint is just high heated to cure quicker.
 
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