Researching opticoat pro + and info is all over
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builthatch
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- May 25, 2008
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that is exactly what Pro does. Finest says the same basic stuff. my wife has Pro on her Q5 that is outside 24/7 and i find those claims to be accurate. additionally, it stays cleaner longer and is easier to clean...and is resistant to things that otherwise seem to leave marks or damage. no wax or additional sealants needed. just wash carefully, be vigilant with general obvious care and decon here and there using Reset and Power Clean or whatever other combination of decon products you prefer, such as those mentioned by Rasky. my wife doesn't know anything about this stuff and is extremely sensitive to the bonus features of coating now that she has a vehicle with Pro. it's very obvious that it stays cleaner longer than it otherwise would. the water behavior when it rains is fun.
however, that isn't to say that Gloss-Coat won't act the same for you. but, if you believe OPT, it appears that one lasts longer than the other. this is likely due to higher film build with Pro vs. GC. if you like things to be slick, then Gloss-Coat or Pro+ is for you.
either way, i recommend no matter what you get your wheels coated with the Pro version.
Setec Astronomy
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- Aug 31, 2010
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"Wolfs" is not short for Wolfgang; Wolfs is a different brand that isn't sold here anymore.
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- #24
2011 Kona Blue
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- Mar 18, 2015
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OP, I too was looking into this option along with CQuartz Finest. If I were going to choose between the two of them, it would be CQuartz Finest. With that said I opted not to get either. I am just not willing to pay the 900 dollars for a paint coating.
I can protect my car for one year with a good quality sealant such as Jetseal for under 40 dollars and that bottle will last me two full applications. I just applied Jet Seal sealant onto my cars paint, windows and wheels. Those ceramic coatings are not scratch proof, only scratch resistant.
Plus in order to maintain the factory warranty the installer told me I needed to bring the car back to him once a year to check the coating and pay for some yearly maintenance chemicals. No thank you! I'll just apply my $40 Jet Seal sealant and call it a year. Maybe even put a little butter wet carnauba wax on top to give it that sweet wet look.
tdekany
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- May 5, 2009
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While I am not familiar with everyone who has responded "negatively" to your post about OC, I do not think one person replied who is actually an OC PRO installer, or has any experience with the product with the exception being rasky who USED to use OC.
What ever you end up doing, for god sake use a coating and use a hard one. I honestly can't believe that people still use sealants and waxes as a sole protector. That is so very yesterday. I mean the first time you get a bird poop on your paint that you do not notice immediately, you will have to polish the area. Or have a coating on, and just simply wipe it away. What do you prefer?
As far as the look, that really comes from prepping the paint - so even a cheap wax will look excellent if the finish is polished to perfection.
The additional gloss that comes from products like Optimum Gloss Coat and c quartz has a prize. It wears away. Personally, I much prefer to know that my paint is still protected after 2 years like it was from day one instead of having to redo the car all over again.
Spent 2 and a 1/2 days coating everything on my new car except the headliner.
6 months and 6 thousand miles later, still looks like the day I finished coating it. The only thing I do is wash it. And no swirl marks no water spots.
_1140006 by savingspaces33, on Flickr
Even the regular Opti Coat Pro is fine against water spotting, just let the car sit in a garage overnight before driving it in the rain. Here in Oregon, I haven't had any issues with customers. The only time I had calls about it is when the person didn't dry the car properly after washing it.
Opti Coat takes 30 days to cure to the claimed hard finish. Be extra careful for the first month. After that, just wash the car as normal. And wash it weekly or every 2 weeks, depending on the weather.
Make sure to listen to the right people when making decisions.
Would you take the advise of someone who has never driven a car you were interested in? I hope not.
Yes you can apply a consumer coating yourself, but they are not like applying waxes or sealants. It isn't rocket science but it does have a bit of a learning curve. You can either leave high spots behind, or wipe off extra product too soon or too much of it. And of course that is when the H8ers come out of the woodwork blaming the product.
The price you were quoted is at the very low end of what one should charge. OCP - $150, Leather coat - $150, Glass coating $100 - so just imagine what he is making on the deal. Correction is only needed if you have swirls - do you? Mileage has nothing to do with the condition of the paint. I have done 20-30 hour corrections on cars straight out of the factory, without the dealer touching it.
Don't over think it, but do use a coating. Good luck.
What ever you end up doing, for god sake use a coating and use a hard one. I honestly can't believe that people still use sealants and waxes as a sole protector. That is so very yesterday. I mean the first time you get a bird poop on your paint that you do not notice immediately, you will have to polish the area. Or have a coating on, and just simply wipe it away. What do you prefer?
As far as the look, that really comes from prepping the paint - so even a cheap wax will look excellent if the finish is polished to perfection.
The additional gloss that comes from products like Optimum Gloss Coat and c quartz has a prize. It wears away. Personally, I much prefer to know that my paint is still protected after 2 years like it was from day one instead of having to redo the car all over again.
Spent 2 and a 1/2 days coating everything on my new car except the headliner.
6 months and 6 thousand miles later, still looks like the day I finished coating it. The only thing I do is wash it. And no swirl marks no water spots.
_1140006 by savingspaces33, on FlickrEven the regular Opti Coat Pro is fine against water spotting, just let the car sit in a garage overnight before driving it in the rain. Here in Oregon, I haven't had any issues with customers. The only time I had calls about it is when the person didn't dry the car properly after washing it.
Opti Coat takes 30 days to cure to the claimed hard finish. Be extra careful for the first month. After that, just wash the car as normal. And wash it weekly or every 2 weeks, depending on the weather.
Make sure to listen to the right people when making decisions.
Would you take the advise of someone who has never driven a car you were interested in? I hope not.
Yes you can apply a consumer coating yourself, but they are not like applying waxes or sealants. It isn't rocket science but it does have a bit of a learning curve. You can either leave high spots behind, or wipe off extra product too soon or too much of it. And of course that is when the H8ers come out of the woodwork blaming the product.
The price you were quoted is at the very low end of what one should charge. OCP - $150, Leather coat - $150, Glass coating $100 - so just imagine what he is making on the deal. Correction is only needed if you have swirls - do you? Mileage has nothing to do with the condition of the paint. I have done 20-30 hour corrections on cars straight out of the factory, without the dealer touching it.
Don't over think it, but do use a coating. Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #27
I think for the money and that I plan to polish and apply at least something each year I am going to attempt this myself. I have researched and watched so many videos my brain hurts. It's funny as I started out looking to spend 1K on optipro and I thino I'm leaning towards self applying cquartzuk based on tons of great reviews and info to apply. I would like to ask the pros and diyers a confirming steps question. My maxima is a month old gray metallic. I have two bucket method and foam cannon washed it once and the clear does not show any defects currently. if I'm correct this means a compound or abrasive correction should not be needed. Steps that seem obvious. ..
Wash Thoroughly
decon with iron x (is claYing needed as well??)
polish (this is where I am still seeking Info the most. I want a non abrasive fine finish polish froom my reads and condition of car. Will carpro reflect work or is it considered a non abrasive finish polish?) Would be nice to stick with one brand.
final cleanse with car pro eraser
Apply c quartz UK, apply second
Apply car reload
Am I on the right track? I have never used a DA and this is my entry I to this so the polish portion is where I will really be learning. I plan to order a DA and all product shortly.
last question. Do I do all of this to my new suntek clear film or will a wash and apply of coating be more advised...
Thank you guys so much....
Wash Thoroughly
decon with iron x (is claYing needed as well??)
polish (this is where I am still seeking Info the most. I want a non abrasive fine finish polish froom my reads and condition of car. Will carpro reflect work or is it considered a non abrasive finish polish?) Would be nice to stick with one brand.
final cleanse with car pro eraser
Apply c quartz UK, apply second
Apply car reload
Am I on the right track? I have never used a DA and this is my entry I to this so the polish portion is where I will really be learning. I plan to order a DA and all product shortly.
last question. Do I do all of this to my new suntek clear film or will a wash and apply of coating be more advised...
Thank you guys so much....
- Thread starter
- #28
Between this or the pinnacle kit that Comes with it all
tdekany
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- May 5, 2009
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Good thing is that you practice on your own car, so if anything goes wrong, you will not be in any trouble. While I have never used the cquartz uk, I have heard that it isn't the most user friendly product. Gloss Coat is. Just be aware.
As far as polishing, reflect is fine, in fact, I have a whole bottle of it, tried it once and I didn't care for the dusting, but it may not dust for you. If you want it, you can have it, just pay me for shipping.
On your suntek, I have that on my car as well. You can final polish it just fine.
For one of my customers, who didn't have the budget for correction plus OC, I suggested that he ordered Detailers pride's coating. I put that on for him, and man was it shiny. Again, not as easy as GC, but it sure looked amazing.
As far as polishing, reflect is fine, in fact, I have a whole bottle of it, tried it once and I didn't care for the dusting, but it may not dust for you. If you want it, you can have it, just pay me for shipping.
On your suntek, I have that on my car as well. You can final polish it just fine.
For one of my customers, who didn't have the budget for correction plus OC, I suggested that he ordered Detailers pride's coating. I put that on for him, and man was it shiny. Again, not as easy as GC, but it sure looked amazing.
tdekany
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- May 5, 2009
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I do not mean to confuse you.
Personally, I prefer a deep wet look over shine and I hate dusting. Because of that, I prefer Optimum or 3D products to polish with. This is very subjective, it is what I have found pleasing to "my" eyes. But what ever you end up using will make your finish look better than it is now.
- Thread starter
- #32
Which of these have you used on the sun tek film? I'm looking at the optimum polishes and they have so many, final polish, polish II, hyper polish. Etc. How do u even navigate all these ha
Rsurfer
Well-known member
- Jan 26, 2007
- 14,160
- 26
Necrobump...
Why aren't there more impressions / reviews / talk about the pro plus version. Can't really find anything
Because it's applied only by authorized installers and not your everyday weekend warrior. Go to the Optimum Forum for more information.
3D HD Nitro Seal Paint Sealant Kit
i've read some great reviews on this product looking around google.
i've read some great reviews on this product looking around google.