Hi Mike, need a little help.
My brother has a red 1963 Corvette, repainted early 1970's. Can't use a buffer on it paint is getting thin.
What options do i have?
Hi Walt,
Charles, aka Shiny Lil Detlr, Bill, aka BillyJack and Troy all offered you the same advice I would have. The article I wrote is long but very detailed and it is offered as the "safest" approach for restoring antique original, or just antique paint without using abrasives. The paint on your brother's Corvette is not original, but it is antique and high probability is that it is single stage.
How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint
To be honest, we carry a lot of products that would work to remove oxidation, swirls and scratches by hand or using a very safe tool like the Porter Cable 7424XP like Flash Gorden referenced.
That said, I wrote an article on how to restore paint original and antique single stage paints using a
product that's been around as long as these paints have been around and actually longer according to my research.
In the article, the abrasive used is not a mechanical abrasive but terry cloth, that is the l
ittle cotton loop of fiber that makes up the
nap of the cloth and where terry cloth gets its name.
As mentioned, it is a long article and that's because it's very detailed and the reason for that is because if paint is in fact thin and fragile, and if it's important and even vital to the owner to do everything they can to preserve the paint, then often times you really only have one shot at it and you need
head knowledge, (that's the article), and the
right products with the
right technique.
So here's the article... I hope to re-write it someday using different car as this was not my first or best choice for the car for this article, it's what I had available at the time as as I wrote in the article, the most challenging paint to restore is single stage metallic paints for the reason outlined in the beginning of the article.
Restoring any non-metallic single stage paints will always be a lot easier as long as the paint has not become
unstable.
Here's the article,
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints
If you want more bite, that is a more aggressive product but still very safe as compared to using a true compound, you can also use the
M80 Speed Glaze. This product is like the #7 Show Car Glaze on
steroids as it contains
diminishing abrasives that will work with the terry cloth to chew the dead paint off faster while still gorging the paint with the same TS oils found in the #7
And of course, you could apply both with a DA Polisher like shown in this thread,
The Free Floating Spindle Assembly - The Story Behind The Story...
A word of caution based upon a lot of experience restoring antique and original single stage paints, avoid rubbing or buffing on any raised body line, especially on the top of the car. It's always easy to buff the easy to buff areas like the hood, top of fenders, deck lid. This means over the years there's been other people that have probably already buffed these areas and not always been careful or
used the least aggressive product to get the job done.
So avoid high points, raised body lines and edges when doing any aggressive rubbing or buffing.
Sure hope you take before and after pictures and for projects like this and because the
BEFORE pictures are
SO IMPORTANT I wrote another article to help ensure you get the important shot and
that's the hood shot BEFORE anyone rubs on the paint so it's
uniform ugly.
The power in the after shots is created in the before shots
Uniform Ugly
Powerful After Shot
