Review: 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike Phillips
  • Start date Start date
I think the "thicker" feel is due to the rubbery, non-slick characteristic... It's not really all that weird - I know exactly what you're talking about. Either that or you and me are both weird LOL.

I'm definitely weird. It's one of my most redeeming qualities.

Here's where I'm confused now:
This 303 is supposed to be the dogs danglies when it comes to keeping a vehicle clean.. but they say it can be topped by other products... which would surely be less effective at keeping it clean.. but I like the slickness of the Megs hybrid ceramic wax... so the paintwork would be slicker... but get dirtier?

Incidentally I came across this YT video about graphene in construction a couple of days ago. No more rebar to rust out in concrete! (hoping this doesn't derail the thread...)
Construction's Graphene Revolution Has (Finally) Begun - YouTube
 
Incidentally I came across this YT video about graphene in construction a couple of days ago. No more rebar to rust out in concrete! (hoping this doesn't derail the thread...)
Construction's Graphene Revolution Has (Finally) Begun - YouTube
Pozzolans such as fly ash and volcanic ash have been added to concrete since the Roman times and this contributed to why Roman concrete was so good and could even cure under water. The mention of “Rebar” Graphene also mentioned nanotubes and described many characteristics of pozzolans such as reducing cracking so I think it is more of a new age pozzolan as opposed to truly replacing rebar in concrete. I learned about this when I did my kitchen countertops in concrete. Turned out awesome.
 
Topped it with the Megs HCW today, very slick again... but now I have no idea what the 303 Graphene stuff is doing.. if anything? Can't see any reason to use the rest of it.
 
Well, I believe it’s still a good base. I’ve got mine topped with flex wax so I’m in the same boat. But, I did have just 303 on it when I went on a weekend trip and the car sat under a tree during a ton of rain, and endured crummy conditions overall. I expected water spots and general messing up of the lsp, but nothing. It washed right up.

i thought about polishing it off and putting the hybrid solutions spray back on, but I may just throw another coat of 303 on it before winter. It’s so easy and while it may not be slick, there are tons of toppers you can use to bring up the slickness.
 
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I think it’s a great base. I don’t like how oily it is going on, how it messes with your applicator and towels a bit and make them black, but I think it protects well. I put a layer on a virgin car in January with no polishing, and followed it up in March with another layer. Then twice since then I have quickly wiped the car down with some carpro elixir as a topper and the car still looks like it’s got a sheet of glass on it. It handles bugs and dirt very well, completely slides off , and a trip from Florida to Philadelphia and back did nothing to abraid it, a quick touchless wash when I got home and it’s back to looking car show ready. Non-car people comment all the time to me what a great shine it is. kudos to BMW for a really great multiple application of clearcoat with no orange peel too!
 
View attachment 74388

I think it’s a great base. I don’t like how oily it is going on, how it messes with your applicator and towels a bit and make them black, but I think it protects well. I put a layer on a virgin car in January with no polishing, and followed it up in March with another layer. Then twice since then I have quickly wiped the car down with some carpro elixir as a topper and the car still looks like it’s got a sheet of glass on it. It handles bugs and dirt very well, completely slides off , and a trip from Florida to Philadelphia and back did nothing to abraid it, a quick touchless wash when I got home and it’s back to looking car show ready. Non-car people comment all the time to me what a great shine it is. kudos to BMW for a really great multiple application of clearcoat with no orange peel too!


Haven’t had mine on as long, but I concur overall. The nice thing is, it seems you can top with just about anything.
 
View attachment 74388

I think it’s a great base. I don’t like how oily it is going on, how it messes with your applicator and towels a bit and make them black, but I think it protects well. I put a layer on a virgin car in January with no polishing, and followed it up in March with another layer. Then twice since then I have quickly wiped the car down with some carpro elixir as a topper and the car still looks like it’s got a sheet of glass on it. It handles bugs and dirt very well, completely slides off , and a trip from Florida to Philadelphia and back did nothing to abraid it, a quick touchless wash when I got home and it’s back to looking car show ready. Non-car people comment all the time to me what a great shine it is. kudos to BMW for a really great multiple application of clearcoat with no orange peel too!

When did BMW start selling cars without orange peel in the finish?
 
Got a pic of the bike outside yesterday. Probably should have put some more thought into where it was parked... two coats of 303 & only topped with the Megs HCW stuff on the tank & ducktail.

20210919-094612.jpg


22yo paint, 120,000 miles, only been washed with soap & water a couple of times.

This was last month, before 303

ZRX-RS1aa.jpg
 
I recently tried out some 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating that Mike had sent to me. I tried it on some smaller parts as a test bed... A front fender on one of my bikes and a set of spare motorcycle wheels.

Here's my initial impression...

It worked great, easy to apply and buff, it looks good - real good, and I'm happy with it's performance in every way except one... It doesn't leave the surface feeling as slick as a wax or sealant would. If I lightly drag a microfiber towel across the fender I could feel the drag increase as I reached the spray coated portion. Whether or not that means anything is certainly debatable but it is something I observed. I like the slick feel of wax/sealant.

I think it is a really great product for the set of wheels I used it on and will continue to use it in that application, but I'm not sure I would use it on my entire bike or truck. I think I'll stick with the waxes and/or sealants for those applications.

[FONT=&]Here's a follow-up to my initial impressions of the 303 documented in Post #112 back in June...

I just used the referenced 303 for the first time on a complete job... A motorcycle detail job. Previous to this complete job I had only used the product on a set of motorcycle wheels and a small test section of a painted fender. The primary characteristic of the 303 that I noticed then was it's "sticky" or "grabby" nature when wiping off and the non-slick nature of the finished parts.[/FONT]


[FONT=&]That hasn't changed. It's the nature of the product.[/FONT]

[FONT=&]Nevertheless, I decided to give it a more determinative test. I used my 2002 Harley Softail Deuce as the test specimen.

[/FONT]
View attachment 74152

[FONT=&]I have to say that I am really impressed with the final results. The bike looks phenomenal... The paintworks, the chrome, the plastic, even the matte black control housings.[/FONT]

[FONT=&]If you can get by the non-slick attribute of this product, it impresses in every other sense. When I say "non-slick", I'm comparing to a typical wax or sealant. It's not that bad, it's just not as slick as your typical wax or sealant.[/FONT]

[FONT=&]The ease of use can't be beat. Just wipe it on, let it haze, and wipe it off. As the haze time increases, so does the "stickiness" during wipe off, but as you develop your process with the product, it's no big deal.[/FONT]

[FONT=&]I found the best method for wiping is to initially wipe in a single direction by placing one hand on top of your wiping towel and using your other hand to pull the towel. This will remove the bulk of the hazed product without the towel rolling or twisting under your hand like could happen if you wiped in a typical one-handed manner. Once the bulk of the hazed product is removed, follow with another clean, fresh towel and finish buffing in a typical manner.[/FONT]

[FONT=&]Following this usage of the 303 on my bike, I think it was a good choice. Good enough that I'm now more inclined to try it on a car in the future.[/FONT]

[FONT=&]Great Product![/FONT]

[FONT=&]Here's a link to a thread with a description and several more pics of the detailing process should you be interested... [/FONT]2002 HD Softail Deuce - Extreme Detail (autogeekonline.net)

I did one of my bikes with 303 about a month ago and my other bike back in June with Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax.

After reading your questions on the slickness I went out to the garage and checked the slickness of each. Mind you, this is a completely subjective test so I wouldn't take my findings to the bank, but what I found is that the 303 bike does feel a little slicker today than it did when I first applied it.

Since applying the 303 that bike has been wiped with Meguiar's D115 as a quick detailer probably 3 or 4 times so that may be influencing my perceived improvement in slickness. Regardless, the other bike with the Ultimate Wax is definitely slicker.

I think the "thicker" feel is due to the rubbery, non-slick characteristic... It's not really all that weird - I know exactly what you're talking about. Either that or you and me are both weird LOL.

Here is what I think will be my final take on this 303 product. I've included my previous posts so that all of my interim reviews are together in one post.

Yesterday I tried out the 303 on my black truck. As it turned out, I was right in my first review when I said I didn't think it was the right product for my entire truck. The truck looked great with exceptional gloss but the lack of slickness just isn't working for me.

As a final step, several hours after applying the 303, I wiped the entire truck with a quick detailer. What a pain... The surface was so grabby I couldn't easily wipe the QD. The rag had a tendency to stick and roll under my hand. What should have taken a few minutes took infinitely longer because of this. It was at this point I decided the 303 isn't for me and my truck.

Previously I also used the 303 on one of my bikes and was really impressed with the aesthetics it provided. I still had the "sticky nature of the product issue", but on the smaller surfaces of the bike it was manageable and I could accept it. The bike looked so good that I decided I would try it on the truck when I got a chance.

The "sticky" nature of the 303 was not as manageable/acceptable with the larger panels of my truck. While the truck did look amazing, the "sticky" nature of the 303 was a deal-breaker for me. Simple QD and/or waterless maintenance is too difficult with the "sticky" surface as described above.

I ended up applying a coat of Meguiar's Ultimate Wax over the 303 to improve the slickness.

In summary, while I was (and still am) impressed with every other characteristic of the 303, the "stickiness" is a definite fault for certain applications and my truck is one of those.

If 303 could reformulate this product to improve the slickness while still maintaining all of its other attributes I'd love to try it again. But until then, my usage will be limited.
 
I guess it all depends on where we apply this and what we combine it with etc. etc. I put on two coats of 3O3 back in January about a month apart, and then followed it up with two applications after a car wash over the months with Carpro elixr….And I literally can put the towel on the hood and with the slightest motion it will slide off the hood and fall off… I’m getting incredibly slickness, more so than other stuff I’ve used.

I wonder if it has to do with how we cure the 303, my 303 applications were about three weeks apart, and each application cured in my garage at 75° out of the sun. I also applied it in very thin coats,( 2 sprays per panel) with a cordless orbital and a wax black pad.

The only place I didn’t like the 3O3 was on my windshield, it just got “smeary “ after a few weeks from the wipers.
 
I tried 303 on part of the SB Honda hood. Most certainly NOT recommended for use in the Mojave Desert if you leave the car outside, the dust sticks to it like poop to a blanket. Even after driving at freeway speeds.
However, the paint of this car is completely trashed. The entire car was dusty, but not as dusty as the 303 part.

View attachment 74431

View attachment 74432

With that said, it did hose off easily enough (& no, I haven't done anything else to the rest of the hood, I guess you can tell)

View attachment 74433
 
The only place I didn’t like the 3O3 was on my windshield, it just got “smeary “ after a few weeks from the wipers.

I don't have that issue, I put 2 coats on all the glass and it never smeared.
 
Mike.
I've applied ceramic coatings for a number of yrs.
My own rule is towels used to remove ceramic
coatings are never allowed to touch paint again
because the coating can harden on the towel
fibers and possibly scratch the paint.

My question is do I need to follow this same
policy when applying 303 nano spray graphene?
 
Mike is no longer here so I’ll give you my opinion after using it for close to a year, no , your towels are fine they just need to be washed right away because they darken in the towel. This is not a silica/ceramic coating in the true sense, that cures hard.
 
Great review Mike !
I have come to the conclusion that full on ceramic coating is no doubt the way to go for show cars and garage queens. But in the real world I experience such as driving a Range Rover to Maine from CT every week where it WILL encounter snow, dirt, sand, salt, have to deal with brushing off snow, sometimes ice being whacked to break free, yup...my paint is gonna get touched a lot. Oh and good luck washing it in 30 degree temps in a garage or if lucky outside where there is NO WAY you are going to have pristine mits etc . In conclusion, AT LEAST once a year paint correction WILL be needed so why waste money on a coating you will effectively prep off annually. Mike is spot on about coatings that last more than a year.
I have been away for a while since I made my first dive into the 21st century world of detailing! The Blackfire SiO2 I have been using on my Alfa Romeo Stlevio has proved to be as durable as my standard bearer->Collinite 845. All I have used for paint correction is Blackfire AIO. Car still looks like new after a fresh detail and yes, it makes those winter trips as well, granted many less.

So my questiont to Mike is, which is better? The key to the Blackfire SiO2 is less is more, just like the Collinite yet the ease of application & removal is sinful. I just did a January wipe down after a lucky warm enough day for an outside wash after being in Maine for 2 weeks. THe Rangie has some detail marks from snow removal...shi!! happens, but looks damn sweet for January in CT!
I have a gift certificate waiting to burn.
I am intrigued in Tack systems Moonlight, Gyeon Q2 Can Coat, if they are worth the upgrade from the Blackfire SiO2 for my gnarly needs. It seems to be much less about the topcoat these day as even Turtle Wax and 303 are making out of the ballpark products.
 
I’d recommend looking at Gyeon CanCoat Evo, which will be out soon. CanCoat was easily a 12 month coating (lite) with quick and easy application and the Evo version is much stronger. Economical, fast, with good durability. Blackfire SiO2 might last 4-6 months so it is up to you how often you want to put on protection as either option is good. Griots Ceramic 3-in-1 is another 4-6 month sealant that is very good, economical, and easy to apply.

Another option is CQuartz Lite as it is another coating lite but CanCoat is quicker and easier to apply. Apply and then immediately wipe off.
 
What are your thoughts on using 303 Graphene nano on single stage paint? Especially, old single stage paint that is in good shape, looks good and has had paint correction. It's 60 years old.
 
What are your thoughts on using 303 Graphene nano on single stage paint? Especially, old single stage paint that is in good shape, looks good and has had paint correction. It's 60 years old.

303 Graphene is marketed as working over paints, sealants, coatings, etc. so single stage paint should work just fine.

But there are better sealants on the market, Griot-s 3-in-1 Ceramic Wax gets really good reviews but both of those products are in the 4-6 mo durability range.

If you want better durability, I’d recommend a lite coating such as CanCoat Evo or CQuartz Lite, which should last for a year. True coatings such as Pure Evo or Cquartz 3 will give closer to 2 years.

But it also depends on how much you drive and if this is stored in a garage. If stored in a garage and rarely driven, a coating lite product will likely last a couple years if not exposed to the elements.
 
Apologies if this has been mentioned, but can this be used on top of Xpel PPF and Ceramic coated cars?
 
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