conman1395
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Mike, can you please chime in on the use of one bucket rinseless?
Review and How-To: Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash
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Mike Phillips
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Hey everyone thanks for all the comments, feedback and questions....
As I type this I'm in my hotel room getting ready to head over to the SEMA Convention Center so can't really do a lot of typing and answering of questions and comments, just too much going on. For example after helping to set up the booth I have a meeting with the Producer for our TV show and a meeting with A.J.
That said, I did read some of the comments about only using one bucket.
Here's the deal...
I was washing this car to get it ready to buff out. So my primary concern was to remove loose dirt and there was some type of black dust all over the entire car.
My concern was not to wash carefully but to wash thoroughly.
Kind of like in my how to books and in my classes I teach two methods for the traditional car wash,
There is a difference in the how and the why for these two methods.
I also cover this in-depth in my training videos on our new Roku channel.
After using the rinseless wash to clean this Dodge Dart I then used a Nanoskin Pad to mechanically decontaminate the paint and then I compounded and polished the paint and then machine waxed it.
Hope that helps to explain why I only used one bucket.
Just to note...
After doing this type of show car detailing to a car like this moving into the future I would normally use a waterless wash to cleaner her up with LOTS of microfiber towels as that's how I normally like to treat cars like this.
If I were to use a rinseless wash I would use the method I show in my 3-day classes.
As I type this I'm in my hotel room getting ready to head over to the SEMA Convention Center so can't really do a lot of typing and answering of questions and comments, just too much going on. For example after helping to set up the booth I have a meeting with the Producer for our TV show and a meeting with A.J.
That said, I did read some of the comments about only using one bucket.
Here's the deal...
I was washing this car to get it ready to buff out. So my primary concern was to remove loose dirt and there was some type of black dust all over the entire car.
My concern was not to wash carefully but to wash thoroughly.
Kind of like in my how to books and in my classes I teach two methods for the traditional car wash,
- The aggressive method
- The gentle method
There is a difference in the how and the why for these two methods.
I also cover this in-depth in my training videos on our new Roku channel.
After using the rinseless wash to clean this Dodge Dart I then used a Nanoskin Pad to mechanically decontaminate the paint and then I compounded and polished the paint and then machine waxed it.
Hope that helps to explain why I only used one bucket.
Just to note...
After doing this type of show car detailing to a car like this moving into the future I would normally use a waterless wash to cleaner her up with LOTS of microfiber towels as that's how I normally like to treat cars like this.
If I were to use a rinseless wash I would use the method I show in my 3-day classes.
conman1395
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What exactly is left behind with this product? Is it like ONR where it's just glossing agents and some QD level protection to make it feel slick?
My only gripe with D114 (and it's only a gripe sometimes because other times it is desirable) is that buffing the last bit off makes the towel not glide easily over the paint depending on LSP or if it's bare paint.
I have Cquartz and normally do a rinseless with DG Rinseless Wash with Aquawax but I feel like the Aquawax attracts dust slightly more dust than the Cquartz alone (washed with D114). I almost always use 3 gallons and ask debating between this and UWW+.
My only gripe with D114 (and it's only a gripe sometimes because other times it is desirable) is that buffing the last bit off makes the towel not glide easily over the paint depending on LSP or if it's bare paint.
I have Cquartz and normally do a rinseless with DG Rinseless Wash with Aquawax but I feel like the Aquawax attracts dust slightly more dust than the Cquartz alone (washed with D114). I almost always use 3 gallons and ask debating between this and UWW+.
Klasse Act
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I finally got this product today and its the best rinseless wash I've ever used...period:dblthumb2:
Bunky
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Which ones have you used and what did you like most about it?
blown03
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I agree no wash product should effect a coatings life span , I forget where now , but its been said they do or at least change the sheeting/beading characteristics , you've probably read the same things I have .
silverfox
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With coatings the bottom line is that you do not want to apply any product over it that changes its characteristics. If you inhibit in any way the coatings ability to self clean and shed crud...you'll be polishing it off within 6 months because you will have killed its ability to repel that which is destined to destroy it. Think about it.
conman1395
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Interesting, why?
Klasse Act
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Well I've used several RW's over the years, ONR, DG, TW, ONRWW, BF and now the WGU. I've never had an issue with any of the previous products but this WGU dries a lot easier and you can really see the added shine left behind. I still have 2 bottles of TW, over a half gallon of ONRWW and about 1/3 of a gallon of DG, so needless to say I'm stocked up. I also have the new and improved BFWW and now this WGU product, I can never say I have nothing to clean my car with.
As I lost this I just made up 96 ounces of the WGU as a waterless, so I'll post about that in about an hour, stay "tuned".
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Klasse Act
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Ok, I just did a WW using the WGU because the car was cleaned early yesterday morning, parked outside more than 12 hrs and had some condensation forming and once home you could see the dust.
I used 2 GG green mf towels to clean and a plush blue for buffing. I'm still shaking my head with how easy it cleaned the car, the shine left behind and how slick the finish is
I'd like to thank those at Wolfgang for developing such an outstanding product here, I'm sure it wasn't easy as the competition is so tough but IMO you guys suceeded...BIG TIME
Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
I used 2 GG green mf towels to clean and a plush blue for buffing. I'm still shaking my head with how easy it cleaned the car, the shine left behind and how slick the finish is
I'd like to thank those at Wolfgang for developing such an outstanding product here, I'm sure it wasn't easy as the competition is so tough but IMO you guys suceeded...BIG TIME
Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
Klasse Act
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Well we still need soap...to wash ourselves, LOL
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conman1395
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Dries easier? Can you explain what you mean? To me drying has always been about the towels and LSP so I'm curious.
Klasse Act
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Well it's kinda cool down in the garage and the WGU just dried faster for me. I use the same GG large waffle drying towels with all my washes and this is what I've seen during the past 2 days of using this product as both a RW and a WW.
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Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
Mike Phillips
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Post SEMA Catch-up day
Sorry for the late replay, kind of busy the last week...
SEMA Day 1 with Autogeek
SEMA Day 2 with Autogeek
SEMA Day 3 with Autogeek
SEMA Day 4 with Autogeek
:dblthumb2:
Sorry for the late replay, kind of busy the last week...
SEMA Day 1 with Autogeek
SEMA Day 2 with Autogeek
SEMA Day 3 with Autogeek
SEMA Day 4 with Autogeek
:dblthumb2:
evo77
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I just noticed that this product is not listed in the Waterless Wash product section of the store for some reason. You have to find it in the Wolfgang section.
Waterless car wash products, ecotouch waterless wash, griots waterless wash, optimum onr, automotive waterless car wash
Waterless car wash products, ecotouch waterless wash, griots waterless wash, optimum onr, automotive waterless car wash
Mike Phillips
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Edited for corrections for dillutions
32 ounces is quart so cut the concentrate amount by one fourth - that would be,
1/4 ounce for clay lube
3/4 ounce for spray detailer
I think the above is correct I'm not a numbers geek but a car geek.
That would be fine...
Of course... here's why I brought in a very cool muscle car...
New Flex Tool XFE 7 - 15mm Long Stroke Free Spinning Orbital Polisher
I like to put things in extremes for questions like this to make it easy to understand.
The Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash will leave behind more than an alcohol wipe down.
Everyone will have their own technique for what works best for them and that's what's really important.
My normal method for using a rinseless wash is to fill the bucket up with clean microfiber towels and use one towel at at time. Then after using the towel place in a second bucket to take to the washing machine to wash and dry them for the next use.
This is also the method I teach in my 3-day ACR classes.
Nick asked me to try out the new rinseless wash mitt that he's very fond of and in so doing I also just used one bucket for the rinseless wash.
Normally for cars like I work on I use waterless washes as they are my preferred method but I will add that a rinseless wash does tend to provide more liquid to the surface and thus more lubrication and cleaning.
Besides that most of the cars I'm washing I'm washing because I'm going to buff out the paint so my main concern is removing any surface dirt not being careful.
When I wash a car to be careful it's usually my truck or the wife's Mercedes and then I use a foam gun with running water to rinse.
If northing's changed then the answer is "yes".
Cherry and it's delicious!
I like it because it's soft and plush but my preferred method of using a rinseless wash is to use simple microfiber towels soaking in the bucket of rinseless wash. Some people call this the Gary Dean method but Mike aka Setec Astronomy once told me there was another guy that actually started this method years before Gary. I don't know for sure as I never did the research to find out if this was accurate. I trust Mike's word but again I never looked it up to find out what the real story is but one thing I always do is give due credit where credit is due.
So I don't know who came up with placing microfiber towels into a bucket of rinseless wash and then after using one towel placing it aside and grabbing a clean/soaking towel for the next panel but I believe this makes sense. Especially if you're doing a maintenance wash.
I didn't for this car but think it's a good idea for dirtier cars.
You can use either. I do like the plush mega-million fibers of the 530 to both absorb liquids and provide a place for any dirt particles to bury into.
Place a microfiber towel that's saturated with the rinseless wash onto the dried bug or bugs and then work on another part of the car and let the water soak into the dead, dry bug guts and soften them for me to make it easier and safer to remove them.
I think I have an article from around the year 2005 on this somewhere.
No problem Chris.
I think I'm into about 45 minutes so far replying to all the questions in this thread using the multi-quote option in vBulletin.
It's Monday and I'm back into the office after SEMA so I'm playing catch-up.
To be honest I have not used it this way as of yet. It's a brand new product and I was asked to use it as the name on the label implies.
I do tend to use waterless washes the most for the majority of my detailing work so I will use it this way in the future and post a review.
Good question. :xyxthumbs:
Thanks...
I think I answered this previously in this mega-reply and also while I was at SEMA but here's the jist of my answer...
I prefer to use multiple towels soaking in the bucket of rinseless wash. This just makes the best sense to me. I also teach this approach in my 3-day ACR Classes.
My choice, I work on a lot of cool cars, muscle cars, classics, customs with a K and streetrods. I prefer to work on these types of cars and I've always noticed all of our TV Hero's also work on these types of cars. Nothing against daily drivers it's just they don't have the excitement and appeal as special interest vehicles.
For the type of cars I work on I normally use a waterless wash and that's because these types of cars are NOT 4-wheel drive, muddy. Thus I can get away with a waterless wash and to me a waterless wash is fast and easy and doesn't make the water mess of all other option.
I also as a "best practice" don't introduce water to cars where rust is an issue. This is my way of being a professional and also a professional courtesy to the guys that trust me with their cars.
As for one bucket or two buckets I think if you're going to use the wash mitt approach than you can use either one or two buckets but two buckets for sure will be safer especially if you're doing a maintenance wash. If you're going to buff the car out then the two bucket approach is still a better approach but one bucket will get you by.
So yeah... for most people using the single wash media approach use two buckets. For me... I'll probably stick with using a waterless wash for most of my work.
There's a seat for every person out there and each of us can find what we like the best, what works the best and then perfect out own technique and method to the madness.
I agree.
I was asked to showcase the new product and also the new wash mitt but normally I'll place about 12 to 15 microfiber towels into a bucket and draw out saturated towels as needed.
Sometimes it also depends on the car and how dirty it is or isn't.
See my answers above... :xyxthumbs:
Thank you. And since the photos are hosted on the AGO forum an not Photobucket or some other picture hosting site they are here to stay. Also each one is resized to 800 pixels wide so they show up perfectly on any electronic device and no one ever has to horizontal scroll.
For my own vehicles I do this,
- Wheels and tires first with water hose, Iron X. Car wash soap for my truck's tires and tire cleaner for the low profile tires on the wife's Mercedes.
- Iron X on the paint
- Foam gun and wash with Alien Worm Wash Mitts
- Rinse
- Re-foam and Cobra Clay Mitt
- Re-rinse and dry
For my customer's cars and for project cars most of what I do is waterless washes unless the car is a daily driver then a traditional wash like I describe above, that is
- Wheels and tires first
- Iron X
- Foam gun
- Rinse
- Foam gun plus Cobra Clay mitt
- Rinse and dry
No.
Those options to me sound like a recipe for potentially scratching the paint. Instead after washing and drying the car I will tend to use a Nanoskin pad on a DA Polisher.
For example my last 4 detail jobs were all waterless washes and one rinseless wash and then Nanoskin by machine or towels by hand for places I could not get a 6" Nanoskin pad.
No. I would if I had to but so far I've never had to as we are not under water restrictions here in Florida so I use products like Iron X with a hose and running water to rinse off the residues.
Yes and no. It won't hurt or harm the coating in an of itself. If you wash your car with a brick the brick will harm the coating and the paint so stick with soft wash media.
It does impart gloss and that would be from some form of gloss enhancers and anytime you put "something" on or over the coating you then get the characteristics of the product on the coating and not the coating.
This goes for people that want to apply a Carnauba wax over a coating. The Carnauba was won't harm the coating but you no longer get the characteristics of the coating but of the Carnauba wax.
I keep our Mercedes coated, normally with Black Label Surface Coating but recently we used Blackfire Paint Coating. For maintenance I use Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Detailer and Booster and both work great.
For example , UWW+ is said to leave polymers behind that can/do /may effect the coating's sheeting ability . Its my present go to but if WG RW is coating safe , we may be changing to it ......Hope I made sense ....
Yes you made sense and yes the Wolfgang Rinseless wash will leave "something" behind on the surface to make the paint glossy but in my opinion it will be so little that it's really a non-factor to me as I would place the importance cleaning a dirty car as the primary important factor not what the product leaves behind.
Great questions everyone...
Took a few minutes to type out all the replies hope I answered everyone's questions and concerns.
Thanks for the Awesome write up Mike P. Love those wheels on that Dart .
roguegeek
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DP's rinseless solution is very similar and can be diluted to make different products as well. I've been using it for a while and it's worked out very well, but this great write up is making me want to try out Wolfgang's version. For anyone who knows, how do the two compare?
willieg
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Amazing as always. I was on the fence for trying a rinseless wash but after seeing this post and seeing how easy it is to do im going to give it a try. Thanks Mike.
Anyway you could break down how much to use as a quick detailer or clay lube for a 32oz bottle.
I saw you had it broke down by the gallon but I would see myself just mixing a 32oz spray bottle at a time for the clay lube or quick detailer.
Edited for corrections for dillutions
32 ounces is quart so cut the concentrate amount by one fourth - that would be,
1/4 ounce for clay lube
3/4 ounce for spray detailer
I think the above is correct I'm not a numbers geek but a car geek.
32 oz is a quart so ratio is incorrect. Btw, just tried the product and was first time using RW technique - like it. Have not ever done WW so will try that next. Thanks for a great product.