Review & How-To: Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Paint Coating

apthai said:
Thanks Mike! I can't wait for my order to come.

I got a quick question.

How does the slickness compare to WG DGPS3?

That's what I currently have on my car and love how slick it is.
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To be honest it's not as slick feeling as the Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant but most coatings are not slick to the touch and especially the silky slickness like the WDGPS which has an almost cult-like following just for the slickness it provides.


kevincwelch said:
Mike,

Great write up. I may need glasses, but I didn't see any comment on how many applicator pads should be used for a regular sized car. As you know, some companies that use the gauze pads or the suede mf suggest discarding them after a certain number of panels to avoid micromarring. Do you recommend using more than one LC applicator per job? Do you discard the applicator after finished or clean it?
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My buddy Jason helped me to coat the car and we used two of the Lake Country foam coating applicator pads and didn't have any problems during application but afterwards we did throw them away.


kevincwelch said:
Also, I see you have about 5mL left over. I assume you cap the syringe with the original cap and store. How long will it last after you've uncapped it for the first use?

Thanks!
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It will be gone before it's an issue but for the exact answer I'll have to check with Nick as I didn't get this information at the time. It was a time crunch week for me trying out new prototype tools and products, taking pictures and then writing reviews plus prepping for SEMA.



Sorry for the late replay, kind of busy the last week...



SEMA Day 1 with Autogeek

SEMA Day 2 with Autogeek

SEMA Day 3 with Autogeek

SEMA Day 4 with Autogeek


Bottom line for most people this in an easy ceramic paint coating to use as long as you stick to the one panel at a time method and the results speak for themselves.


:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks, Mike! Already picked some up!

(Sent via my mobile device)
 
Hi Mike... Would you recommend topping the coating with wax or sealant for added gloss and protection? Thanks!
 
3juan8 said:
Hi Mike...

Would you recommend topping the coating with wax or sealant for added gloss and protection?

Thanks!
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In most cases I'd say "no".

First coatings create a lot of gloss, in fact that's one of the features people really like. I can post lots of pictures of cars that look glossy using wax too so it's not that a quality wax doesn't create gloss it's just that most people consider coatings to create what I call the glassy look which is a tick higher gloss factor than the glossy look.


As for protection, I guess some people could make the case that by applying a wax over a coating that before any "substance" or "mechanical object" could come into contact with the coating to try to destroy it that it would first have to come into contact with the layer of wax and destroy it.

That's a great hypothetical and the detailing would is full of hypothetical situations but to me I would do a really good job of prepping the paint and then applying the coating and then enjoying the appearance and protection provided by the coating.

Invest your time, skill and resources into carefully washing the coating to preserve it instead of trying to protect it with a layer of wax.

That's my take at least...


:)
 
Mike,
Prep, managing product application and maintenance...can you also suggest a plan on removal?
3 years go by or one very bad winter season from salt & sand or maybe poor prep in a small area and time to start over.

-Removal process...abrasion or chemical?
-Is it possible to re-apply over itself as in layering or amalgamate?

I'm interested in how would you manage removal on the vented hood on that old Mercury, around applied emblems, corners, rubber meets paint, etc...?
And last what will the product look like in time if not 100% removed from tight areas...remain clear, flake, crystalize or age ambering?

Thanks Rick
 
rhk531 said:
Mike,
Prep, managing product application and maintenance...can you also suggest a plan on removal?
3 years go by or one very bad winter season from salt & sand or maybe poor prep in a small area and time to start over.

-Removal process...abrasion or chemical?
-Is it possible to re-apply over itself as in layering or amalgamate?

I'm interested in how would you manage removal on the vented hood on that old Mercury, around applied emblems, corners, rubber meets paint, etc...?
And last what will the product look like in time if not 100% removed from tight areas...remain clear, flake, crystalize or age ambering?

Thanks Rick
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The only way I know to make 100 percent for sure the coating is removed would be to mechanically remove it via compounding or polishing.

If it were me, and I wanted to make 100 percent for sure the coating was off the paint I'd use a high quality compound with a foam cutting pad and re-buff the car.


:)
 
Applied Wolfgang Uber Coating to my hyper blue STi 2 weeks ago, and I just couldn't be happier with the results. Very easy to apply, and I had zero issues with high spots. Just follow the advice in this thread and you won't have any issues with this product.

The product looks fantastic too. Better than expected. This is the best LSP I've ever used...the only thing remaining to be seen is how well it holds up.

Fantastic product so far.
 
Awesome job and review. Was there a before coating and after coating thickness reading?
 
Rob T said:
Applied Wolfgang Uber Coating to my hyper blue STi 2 weeks ago, and I just couldn't be happier with the results. Very easy to apply, and I had zero issues with high spots. Just follow the advice in this thread and you won't have any issues with this product.

The product looks fantastic too. Better than expected. This is the best LSP I've ever used...the only thing remaining to be seen is how well it holds up.

Fantastic product so far.
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Thanks for the feedback for you experience.



Joeguam said:
Awesome job and review.
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Thank you.


Joeguam said:
Was there a before coating and after coating thickness reading?
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Nope.

Just apply and fly...


:)
 
Mike,

I had a question for you. I've applied WG coating to a few cars now and put it on the wheels of my new Tahoe that I bought. I've used DLUX in the past and had great beading on my wheels but the WG doesn't bead at all. It sheets water it seems but no beading. I prepped by washing them, Iron-x, claying, then wipe down with Carpro Eraser. Any ideas as to why it isn't beading? It beads wonderfully on the paint and glass but not on the wheels...

Thanks

BTW I love using this coating on the paint. It's the easiest I've ever used!
 
Hokie335i said:
Mike,

I've used DLUX in the past and had great beading on my wheels but the WG doesn't bead at all. It sheets water it seems but no beading.
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I'm not sure why? What type of wheels do you have?



Hokie335i said:
BTW I love using this coating on the paint. It's the easiest I've ever used!
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I agree. I have some more project cars coming up that will be getting the WUPC treatment plus my class will be using it here in a few weeks.


:)
 
Hokie335i said:
Mike,

I had a question for you. I've applied WG coating to a few cars now and put it on the wheels of my new Tahoe that I bought. I've used DLUX in the past and had great beading on my wheels but the WG doesn't bead at all. It sheets water it seems but no beading. I prepped by washing them, Iron-x, claying, then wipe down with Carpro Eraser. Any ideas as to why it isn't beading? It beads wonderfully on the paint and glass but not on the wheels...

Thanks

BTW I love using this coating on the paint. It's the easiest I've ever used!
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If prep was the same, and it's isolated to the wheels, I would venture that it is the material or the wheels are already contaminated or you had another LSP on them that was not removed by your prep.

What material are the wheels?

After the coating has fully cured, if you thoroughly clean the wheels and beading does not return, perhaps the folks at AG may know if a particular wheel material does not accept the coating.

Final option is to try a light polish on the wheels to ensure all LSP is gone, then try to recoat them (assuming you have some coating left)
 
Audios S6 said:
If prep was the same, and it's isolated to the wheels, I would venture that it is the material or the wheels are already contaminated or you had another LSP on them that was not removed by your prep.

What material are the wheels?

After the coating has fully cured, if you thoroughly clean the wheels and beading does not return, perhaps the folks at AG may know if a particular wheel material does not accept the coating.

Final option is to try a light polish on the wheels to ensure all LSP is gone, then try to recoat them (assuming you have some coating left)
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They're standard Chevy z71 wheels. I'm guessing the dealer put something on them that I didn't get off. I didn't have much time so I just cleaned and iron-x'd them. I'll have to try on another set that I know is clean and stripped and see how the coating does.

I cleaned them the other day in between snow storms and noticed they were beading some. Not like previous wheel coatings I've done though. I'll look into it more and report back.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I'm not sure why? What type of wheels do you have?






I agree. I have some more project cars coming up that will be getting the WUPC treatment plus my class will be using it here in a few weeks.


:)
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They're Chevy Z71 wheels. I'm assuming the dealer put something on them and I didn't realize so I didn't deep clean them to remove previously applied protection. Just washed and used iron-x on them. I'll be doing a more thorough clean and seeing if beading returns. I'll also apply them to my girlfriend's Subaru wheels and see if it fares any better on those. I'll report back.
 
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My new daily driver arrived this past weekend. I asked Nick for a tube of the new Uber Coating from Wolfgang. I had seen the extreme gloss in pics, but its rather incredible in person. Best part, this is the easiest coating to apply that I have ever used. Wheels, barrels, brakes, and paint. Very happy with the outcome.
 
Congratulations on the new ride... a Regal GS? Those really are "killer wheels" and look great with the Uber treatment!
 
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