Review: Optimum Eraser

I love optimum products but I was not happy about the fine grade eraser, it was too grabby. It stayed grabby unlike clay bars that become slick as they clean contamination. I only did a quarter on the top of my truck and inspected. I have black sapphire metallic paint which I would say is on the softer side, where its easy to see everything.. and it marred my paint like a sand block, it looked pretty bad even in the shade. I went to one of my mild polishes swirlx and used a hand ccs foam, orange, and then white, it removed alot of it, which I was happy about. I dont think a light clay should marr that badly and due to it being really grabby, its like im fighting with the block lol, I would not use it again. I moved back to my normal mothers clay bar. This is just my experience with the product and my paint.

Wow, how hard were you pressing down and what did you use for lube? Haven't noticed any marring with the fine grade only the aggressive.
 
Wow, how hard were you pressing down and what did you use for lube? Haven't noticed any marring with the fine grade only the aggressive.

I was not pressing down at all, as I do not press down with traditional clay either. I used ONR lube as I use with traditional clay, and even tested optimums detailer as lube to see the same outcome. The marring although it looked bad couldnt have been deep since swirlx was able to tackle it which is a mild polish, but still. Again, this is my experience with my paint, not every paint is the same.
 
...and to be fair if you just look at my paint it mars lol..and mothers clay mars my paint somewhat, but nothing a light polish wont correct.
 
...and to be fair if you just look at my paint it mars lol..and mothers clay mars my paint somewhat, but nothing a light polish wont correct.

I was gonna ask, if they mothers marred it, yea some paints are crazy soft, I feel for you :)
 
I was gonna ask, if they mothers marred it, yea some paints are crazy soft, I feel for you :)

yea lol mothers slightly, but noticeable, which is what im sticking to. I alway polish after anyway since it always needs a polish since its exposed to the elements, mysterious surface scratches appear out of thin air, and i always experience someone not listening and swirling/marr my paint (i told my dealership not to wash my car and they did, they use touchless). Its a tough job to maintain it but somebody has to do it lol. I just love black cars too much.
 
I tried the mild eraser today on our 2006 RAV4. While it was somewhat grabby, it did an excellent job picking up contaminants with no marring whatsoever. I will definitely get another one when this one's time is up.
 
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Maybe this has been answered already, but, how do you know when the eraser is contaminated and should be changed out or if the bar is "wore out"?
 
Bump^^^ anyone know the answer to the above ? I'd like to know as well. Claying is my least favorite step.
 
You can see the contamination on both versions so you'll know when to clean it. We coated both sides so you could just switch on the fly.
 
From what I was told by one of my sensei's is that yes clay does leave some kind of residue or chemicals behind so after claying he highly recommends to re wash the paint.

On a side not pm me about the fine and medium grade im trading them away or even selling if any body is interested

Sent from my SCH-I605 using AG Online


I'm a TOTAL noob to this stuff, but wouldn't it be much more time efficient to clay with detailer as lube, then wash?
 
All loose dirt should be removed before claying or you will see horrible marring. Caing is to remove "bonded" contaminants that a wash won't remove. Loose dirt under a clay bar will do lots of damage.
 
Sweet. Thanks for the review! Reading through the thread and your explanations really helped me understood what type of product this is.

Can't wait till it arrives!
 
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