Revisited Rupes UHS system

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Matt@Revive

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i purchased the UHS polish and pads a while back, i used them on a one car and put it away. i was never able to get the pads to soften up enough for my liking. i have a Ferarri 360 in the shop for a one stop polish and figures "why not use the Italian products on the Italian car".

i let the pads is in the sun for about 10 minutes to heat up before i primed it and it made is much easier to work with. after 5-6 section passes i was more than impressed with the results. the paint is really soft, i marred the section a little wiping the polish.

 
Nicely done. How do you find the cut between Quarz Green and UHS? My experience has been that cut and gloss between either were too close to call?
 
I have heard from Jason Rose the man him self recommend uhs as the system to start with on any car any paint system. I was at a Rupes event in north jersey last Saturday.
3 drops on the pad speed 2 place polisher on paint keep it on one spot for 30 seconds turn off polisher
Add 3 more drops speed 4 and polish as you normally would.
This is what he showed me and it worked very well
 
Zubair said:
Nicely done. How do you find the cut between Quarz Green and UHS? My experience has been that cut and gloss between either were too close to call?
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i have not used the Quartz polish yet. i did try Sonax EX 04-06 on the other fender, it finished out the same, but it didnt remove all of the swirls the UHS did.
 
I'm a big fan of the UHS system. I find that it takes a couple of minutes for the pad to soften up, but once it's softened up, it does a very good job.
 
Once you get used to the foam UHS can be a real winner, especially in a production detailing environment where you need improvement in a hurry. Its personally my favorite polish and I follow with Keramik and a yellow pad if/when refinement is needed.
 
mbkite said:
I have heard from Jason Rose the man him self recommend uhs as the system to start with on any car any paint system. I was at a Rupes event in north jersey last Saturday.
3 drops on the pad speed 2 place polisher on paint keep it on one spot for 30 seconds turn off polisher
Add 3 more drops speed 4 and polish as you normally would.
This is what he showed me and it worked very well
Click to expand...

The general accepted practice for priming the 7-inch pads is 5-6 drops for 30 seconds, working a small area with medium pressure. Then add 2-3 drops on speed 4 (you can go up to speed 6 if needed but with the additional torque the MKII you may shorten pad life) and polish your section using slow-to-medium arm speed.

By adding more product on the first priming pass you can soften the initial 1-2mm of foam while maintaining the stiffness of the foam that is necessary for cutting.

When I prime, I will actually start at speed 3 for about 20 seconds and bump up to 4 for the final small pass over the area. This seems to help prime the pad on days when the ambient temperature is low and/or the body surface is cool.

At the end of the day, use what works best for you :)
 
Zubair said:
Nicely done. How do you find the cut between Quarz Green and UHS? My experience has been that cut and gloss between either were too close to call?
Click to expand...

It really will depend on the paint surface you are polishing (and other variables).

On most paints, I find that UHS (pad/polish) will have a slight advantage of cutting power of the original Quarz and slightly less than the new Quarz. In terms of finish, I find that UHS will finish better than either version of Quarz.

On harder, high-solid scratch-resistant clear coats, UHS will suffer less than other polishing systems. On PPG's cremaclear, for example, the UHS can out perform even the Zephir/blue foam in cutting ability while generating a flawless finish.
 
Todd@RUPES said:
It really will depend on the paint surface you are polishing (and other variables).

On most paints, I find that UHS (pad/polish) will have a slight advantage of cutting power of the original Quarz and slightly less than the new Quarz. In terms of finish, I find that UHS will finish better than either version of Quarz.

On harder, high-solid scratch-resistant clear coats, UHS will suffer less than other polishing systems. On PPG's cremaclear, for example, the UHS can out perform even the Zephir/blue foam in cutting ability while generating a flawless finish.
Click to expand...

So how will the UHS system work with a non rupes polisher? (let's say forced rotation) Just curious...

and I hear this ceramiclear alot lately. Wasn't this a clearcoat that was used for a very short time on mercedes? (The paint code is supposed to hace a C or something on the plate) my Cl550 doesn't have that C to denote ceramiclear?
 
Ceramic clear or high solids clear... its really just boils down to really hard clear coat (concrete hard). The UHS system was designed to address those paint systems, but honestly it works like a charm on everything. I use it almost exclusively on my toyota 4runner and the paint on that thing is average to soft.

As far as the use on a gear driven tool... not sure. I honestly haven't tried it, but if you do let us know how it goes.
 
Maybe you've had a chance by now to try it on the new Mille 900E? I have quite a few UHS pads and noticed there are new Rupes Mille polish formulas.

Dylan@RUPES said:
As far as the use on a gear driven tool... not sure. I honestly haven't tried it, but if you do let us know how it goes.
Click to expand...
 
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