Rich's Flex 3401 + TB Wool Video

richy

richy

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Well, I pulled a really boneheaded move last weekend. While backing into my in-laws' driveway one night (while it was raining heavily I'll add in my defence), I scratched the right rear 1/4 panel and RR door against their big (and sharp) plastic garbage container. I tried a B/S yellow pad + 105 first and although it improved it, the combo was not giving me the correction I needed.

So, I've been saying that I would do a video showing my technique with using the Flex 3401 + TB black wool pad (and + M105 in this case), so I went ahead and did it. This is also the first video I shot using my new Nikon D7100.

Here are some shots of the damage I inflicted upon the paint. Scratching one panel wasn't good enough I guess....loser!









Now that you see what I had to correct, check out the video. As stated in the video title, I used my Flex 3401 + black Tuf Buf wool + M105. Every area got one pass, except for the area that was first done with the yellow B/S which technically got two passes including foam + wool. Afterward, the panels were polished with Flex + M205 + white B/S and then for giggles, I also hit it with Reflect + Flex + blue B/S. That was followed up with DG Squeaky Clean + red B/S + Flex. One last honesty test of Eraser was also used prior to coating it with CQF. Here is the video.



Durango Scratch Repair with Flex 3401 - YouTube

Durango Scratch Repair with Flex 3401 - YouTube


After coating that area, the remaining parts of the car were shot with Permanon via a spray paint gun.


After Shots:




















For some reason, the video link isn't imbedding the video into the post. Lord knows why??
 
Good job. Excellent video.

In your opinion, which product (pad, tool, compound) was most responsible for end result prior to polishing? Hope this question makes sense.
 
R4IDER said:
i liked the cuban cigar touch
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Hehehehehe.

KillaCam said:
It's not letting me watch it on tapatalk app.
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I've looked into this, and I think it's because I haven't "monetized" the video. There is nothing in the settings of it that allow me to change the viewing of it other than the monetizing thing. It's not even available on mine right now either. Obviously that has changed since the last video I posted. Hmmm.

Vegas Transplant said:
Good job. Excellent video.

In your opinion, which product (pad, tool, compound) was most responsible for end result prior to polishing? Hope this question makes sense.
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Prior to polishing? Did you mean prior to coating? The 1st 2 stages made the biggest difference. If that's not what you meant, please ask it a different way that my Canadian brain can figure out, LOL.

Pureshine said:
Great video Richy :)
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Thanks very much!
 
richy said:
Prior to polishing? Did you mean prior to coating? The 1st 2 stages made the biggest difference. If that's not what you meant, please ask it a different way that my Canadian brain can figure out, LOL.


Thanks very much!
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Forgive my sun baked brain for coming up with the question (1 a.m.) in the first place.
What I'm getting at, having never used the TB black wool pad myself, and you being the scratchmeister :props:, what was most responsible for correction. I realize that tool, pad, 105 were used in conjuction, but I also saw minimum haze on dark metallic prior to 205.

So, with everything in your arsenal, why this trio? I value your opinion.
Thanks.
 
Vegas Transplant said:
Forgive my sun baked brain for coming up with the question (1 a.m.) in the first place.
What I'm getting at, having never used the TB black wool pad myself, and you being the scratchmeister :props:, what was most responsible for correction. I realize that tool, pad, 105 were used in conjuction, but I also saw minimum haze on dark metallic prior to 205.

So, with everything in your arsenal, why this trio? I value your opinion.
Thanks.
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I've been using the 3401 + TB wool + either M100 or 105 for a while with amazing results. Only when I have a very, very hard clear in combination with deep scratches, do I need to break out the rotary and spin it high. If I don't have to, I won't. The TB wool is an amazing tool IMO. It corrects well and much, much faster than any mf pad I've ever tried. Everyone talks about the Rupes + mf cutting pads but in my experience they can't touch what the above combo does and in as little time either. The typical complaint against wool is how it leaves the surface. Why I did this video is to show that 1) you should not be using too much product as that creates its own problems and 2) if you work the area long enough, it will finish down well enough that on a white or silver you could go straight to LSP. My approach has always been for perfection, so I always do a polishing step regardless of the colour. My point is though, working the combo of 3401+TB wool+ M100(5) that it will correct quickly, and finish down very well. I bought my Rupes expecting very high levels of correction and was disappointed in it. I like to do my correction work quickly and then take the time polishing the paint to a very high gloss afterward. The Rupes system allows me to work that way very well.
As far as using a trio, normally I would not do that. In fact, there was very little difference whatsoever between how M205 finished down to the Reflect. I want to play with Reflect more to truly find its sweet spot. I know M205's sweet spot with my eyes closed. So, basically I was using it just to get more seat time with it.
Gosh, in a million words or less, I hope I clarified that!

Evan.J said:
Very cool richy.

Nice smoke btw
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Thanks! That's my trifecta: Tunes, a cigar and my polisher.
 
richy said:
I've been using the 3401 + TB wool + either M100 or 105 for a while with amazing results. Your threads led me to research the black wool pad a while back, but got sidetracked and never purchased.

Only when I have a very, very hard clear in combination with deep scratches, do I need to break out the rotary and spin it high. If I don't have to, I won't. The TB wool is an amazing tool IMO. It corrects well and much, much faster than any mf pad I've ever tried. Everyone talks about the Rupes + mf cutting pads but in my experience they can't touch what the above combo does and in as little time either.


Valid point. I think we'll be hearing a lot more of this type sentiment as time progresses.


The typical complaint against wool is how it leaves the surface. Why I did this video is to show that 1) you should not be using too much product as that creates its own problems and 2) if you work the area long enough, it will finish down well enough that on a white or silver you could go straight to LSP. My approach has always been for perfection, so I always do a polishing step regardless of the colour. My point is though, working the combo of 3401+TB wool+ M100(5) that it will correct quickly, and finish down very well.



I bought my Rupes expecting very high levels of correction and was disappointed in it. I like to do my correction work quickly and then take the time polishing the paint to a very high gloss afterward. The Rupes system allows me to work that way very well.
As far as using a trio, normally I would not do that. In fact, there was very little difference whatsoever between how M205 finished down to the Reflect. I want to play with Reflect more to truly find its sweet spot. I know M205's sweet spot with my eyes closed. So, basically I was using it just to get more seat time with it.
Gosh, in a million words or less, I hope I clarified that!


Thanks! That's my trifecta: Tunes, a cigar and my polisher.
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Rotary cut/foam finish detailer here for the most part. I can finish down well with rotary, but for the past year and a half or so, rotary/da incoporated. Just recently gotten back into parking the da on correction details.

What caught my eye the most, even though it was a small work area, was the amount of 105 used (or the lack of it), and finishing out with min. haze. That is what lead to the confusing previous question. My brain erroneously told me it was the pad that got the results. OCII is my go to, though I have revisited Megs in the past two months.

Thanks for the reply, and also for the commentary regarding the Rupes.

Happy detailing...:buffing:
 
FivePoint.0 said:
I love you man! :dblthumb2:

Do you use the 3/4" or 1" wool nap?
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Mark, I believe it was the 3/4".

Vegas Transplant said:
Rotary cut/foam finish detailer here for the most part. I can finish down well with rotary, but for the past year and a half or so, rotary/da incoporated. Just recently gotten back into parking the da on correction details.

What caught my eye the most, even though it was a small work area, was the amount of 105 used (or the lack of it), and finishing out with min. haze. That is what lead to the confusing previous question. My brain erroneously told me it was the pad that got the results. OCII is my go to, though I have revisited Megs in the past two months.

Thanks for the reply, and also for the commentary regarding the Rupes.

Happy detailing...:buffing:
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Thanks. One of the things that really intruiged me about the Flex was its rotary-like direct drive but with a bit of randomness to it as well. To me, it seemed like the best of both worlds. Comparing the Flex to the rotary for correcting, there are several pros and cons. The rotary lacks the forced rotation that the Flex has so its correction can possibly lead to more user error. The advantage the rotary has is being able to spin high when needed to correct. That's just so seldom, that the Flex gives, I think, better quality correction with less "clean up" polishing required afterward. Please try 105 (or 100 which is even cheaper) again. With the right amount, it is awesome. I've done a video about using M105 too. Let me know if you want it linked. (Mark was picking on my "Canadian" accent throughout it though!!)
 
richy said:
Mark, I believe it was the 3/4".


Thanks. One of the things that really intruiged me about the Flex was its rotary-like direct drive but with a bit of randomness to it as well. To me, it seemed like the best of both worlds. Comparing the Flex to the rotary for correcting, there are several pros and cons. The rotary lacks the forced rotation that the Flex has so its correction can possibly lead to more user error. The advantage the rotary has is being able to spin high when needed to correct. That's just so seldom, that the Flex gives, I think, better quality correction with less "clean up" polishing required afterward. Please try 105 (or 100 which is even cheaper) again. With the right amount, it is awesome. I've done a video about using M105 too. Let me know if you want it linked. (Mark was picking on my "Canadian" accent throughout it though!!)
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I would be in favor of seeing the video of you using M105 if you don't mind posting the link. Thanks and great job on the video in this post!
 
kochdalton87 said:
I would be in favor of seeing the video of you using M105 if you don't mind posting the link. Thanks and great job on the video in this post!
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Thanks. I wasn't thrilled at the video as it seemed to lose an awful lot of quality when I had to convert it from .mov to .avi to make it work. I think I've found an editing software that will work for me now.

Here is that M105 video:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-richy-s-m105-video-no-dusting-technique.html
 
Hey Richy, it's still not letting me watch due to a copyright claim from UMG.

"This video contains content from UMG, who has blocked it in your country on copyright grounds"
 
Radarryan said:
Hey Richy, it's still not letting me watch due to a copyright claim from UMG.

"This video contains content from UMG, who has blocked it in your country on copyright grounds"
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Hmmm...that's really weird. I got the copyright message when I posted it due to the Headstones tune in the background, but I acknowledged the rights and it was allowed due to the educational aspect of the video. Here is the message I received:


Here are the details:


  • "Headstones-Hearts, Love And Honour (Album Version)", sound recording administered by:
    2:17​
    UMG
The only other problem with it is that it won't play on a phone b/c they can't or won't monetize the video which looks like the only way now to get it to play on a phone.
FivePoint.0 said:
Richy, do you use speed 6?
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Yes, Sir, it was.
 
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