Right direction?

phoenixZ34

phoenixZ34

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Hey everyone, first post/thread. First I want to say that I'm sure they're are a lot of other threads like this and I apologize for not searching enough but I kind of need answers as soon as possible before I start ordering product and equipment.

That being said, I recently purchased a used Nissan 370z. Didn't notice until I took her home that night of all the swirl marks and damage on the paint. It's really noticeable in the sunlight as well and makes the overall appearance look rather bad in my opinion.

Once I wash and clay my car I obviously want to fix the swirls and polish/wax. After doing some research and homework I'm interested in either the PC 7424xp with the 5" back plate or the Griot's garage random orbital. I've heard great things about both machines but a lot of recommended the PC over the Griot's.

Now with the machines aside, I'm looking at the Meguiar's "mirror glaze" 105 and 205 to buff/remove the damage and polish her up. Next I wanted to use Meguiar's "mirror glaze" m26 for the wax. I've seen a lot of videos about product from different brands but this series seems to work amazingly. I know that product won't really matter unless you use the proper technique but I'd still want to use it nonetheless.
Also using the Orange Low Profile Light Cutting foam pad
white low profile foam pad and the Red low profile ultrasoft wax foam pad for the m26 wax.

I just wanted to ask you guys since I'm a novice if I'm heading in the right direction...


some pictures of the swirls.
 
I would prefer the PC 7424 XP over the GG 6". The main reason is quality. I believe the GG is made in China. However, they do have a lifetime warranty and have great service. I have the PC7424 XP and love it.

I have the GG 3" and I use it very sparingly..ie do not waste your money. With the PC you can get several different backing plates to get 3" pads or larger. As for Polishing Megs #105 with the Orange Pad and Megs #205 with the White Pad and either a Red or Black (Grey) Pad for sealant and/or waxing.

I will probably cause a stink with my opinion on the DA. I have the PC and have had no issues with it quality wise.

If money was no object, the Flex 3401 VRG would be the way to go, but I digress!! Get the PC you will be happy!
 
If you have not used 105 before, there are other options out there that can/will produce the same results. 105 has a "Learning" curve to it. It works and does the job, but can be troublesome when using it the first time around. Everyone has their opinions on what they like and use so mine might be different then yours. I've tried 5 different compounds and I like FG 400 the best, again it's what I like. As of lately, I have been following that up with Reflect and love it. Once again, it's all personal preference. They all will work.
As for machines, tough to beat a life time warranty. I have a GG6 and a Flex. The Flex is a monster with a cutting pad and compound.Again, personal preference, they all will do the job.
 
eaglefan said:
If you have not used 105 before, there are other options out there that can/will produce the same results. 105 has a "Learning" curve to it. It works and does the job, but can be troublesome when using it the first time around. Everyone has their opinions on what they like and use so mine might be different then yours. I've tried 5 different compounds and I like FG 400 the best, again it's what I like. As of lately, I have been following that up with Reflect and love it. Once again, it's all personal preference. They all will work.
As for machines, tough to beat a life time warranty. I have a GG6 and a Flex. The Flex is a monster with a cutting pad and compound.Again, personal preference, they all will do the job.
Click to expand...

Eaglefan is right on the products. The FG 4000 is a Menzerna Product and they have a whole range you can choose from. Menzerna is my favorite and go to polish/sealant. I believe Wolfgang has some relationship with Menzerna. Wolfgang is an AGO house brand. Very good quality. You can see the polish chart on AGO regarding what polishes to choose...very helpful. Additionally, AGO sells DA Kits with the products included at great prices. That is how I started with mine.

I have the PC 7424 XP and Flex 3401 VRG. We both agree on 1 thing the Flex is a beast and would be my 1st choice. However, it is about $300-$400 (with products). If this is just for your personal ride and not much else...The PC (or GG) will do. Even though eaglefan is a fan of the eagles....he is correct. Take that from a DALLAS COWBOYS Fan!!!!...LOL BTW, Dallas has Al Davis syndrome...will probably never win a Superbowl again...but again....I DIGRESS!!!
:buffing:
 
Thanks for all replies!

I was looking at the meguiar's DA correction system as well. Seen the videos but I assumed "like a newb" that the mirror glaze series was better. However, the DA system looks a lot easier to apply I would just need to buy the brush to clean off the pad.

The video's I've watched, the preferred method is working a 1.5ft by 1.5ft section at a time which is fine but do you compound the entire car first (section by section) and then polish (section by section) or finish a section completely then go on to the next section. Once done then apply the wax?
 
phoenixZ34 said:
The video's I've watched, the preferred method is working a 1.5ft by 1.5ft section at a time which is fine but do you compound the entire car first (section by section) and then polish (section by section) or finish a section completely then go on to the next section. Once done then apply the wax?
Click to expand...

Either way, the system is really easy and gives great results.
 
Other newb friendly products are the Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. I got really good results using them the first few times I took a DA to my vehicles.
 
phoenixZ34 said:
Hey everyone, first post/thread. First I want to say that I'm sure they're are a lot of other threads like this and I apologize for not searching enough but I kind of need answers as soon as possible before I start ordering product and equipment.

That being said, I recently purchased a used Nissan 370z. Didn't notice until I took her home that night of all the swirl marks and damage on the paint. It's really noticeable in the sunlight as well and makes the overall appearance look rather bad in my opinion.

Once I wash and clay my car I obviously want to fix the swirls and polish/wax. After doing some research and homework I'm interested in either the PC 7424xp with the 5" back plate or the Griot's garage random orbital. I've heard great things about both machines but a lot of recommended the PC over the Griot's.

Now with the machines aside, I'm looking at the Meguiar's "mirror glaze" 105 and 205 to buff/remove the damage and polish her up. Next I wanted to use Meguiar's "mirror glaze" m26 for the wax. I've seen a lot of videos about product from different brands but this series seems to work amazingly. I know that product won't really matter unless you use the proper technique but I'd still want to use it nonetheless.
Also using the Orange Low Profile Light Cutting foam pad
white low profile foam pad and the Red low profile ultrasoft wax foam pad for the m26 wax.

I just wanted to ask you guys since I'm a novice if I'm heading in the right direction...


some pictures of the swirls.
Click to expand...

You just described my exact same set up and process that I am doing on my car right now. I've got the PC, am using 105 with orange pad, 205 with white pad and then the m26 for the sealant. You must of watched the video where they detail the red mustang lol. I'm a noob as well and am learning as I'm going. Do a good test spot to make sure your process is gonna work. (I learned the hard way on that one) I would do each step to the hole car rather than the complete process to a panel at a time. You don't wanna be wiping off 105 residue off of your finished panel next to it. Keep us posted how it goes. Good luck.
 
Vortech5.0 said:
You just described my exact same set up and process that I am doing on my car right now. I've got the PC, am using 105 with orange pad, 205 with white pad and then the m26 for the sealant. You must of watched the video where they detail the red mustang lol. I'm a noob as well and am learning as I'm going. Do a good test spot to make sure your process is gonna work. (I learned the hard way on that one) I would do each step to the hole car rather than the complete process to a panel at a time. You don't wanna be wiping off 105 residue off of your finished panel next to it. Keep us posted how it goes. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Actually watched the junkman's videos and was impressed with the finish.

I think I'm going to do the Meguiar's DA microfiber correction system and add the D30216 DA polisher after the compound then the finishing wax. It's a lot easier with that system.

Yeah, I was thinking the same. I was thinking of doing the compound to the entire car instead of completely finishing a panel. Then polish the entire car followed by waxing it.
 
phoenixZ34 said:
I think I'm going to do the Meguiar's DA microfiber correction system and add the D30216 DA polisher after the compound then the finishing wax.
Click to expand...

When you say "finishing wax" do you mean your #26? Because if you're talking about this:

Meguiars DA Microfiber Finishing Wax, final wax, car wax, cleaning wax

That's an either/or, you use either the D301 or the D302, not both (well if you really want to , you can use both--but it's not at all necessary). I hope you like it!
 
Wow. That paint is what I call "jacked up".

The GG 6 is a better machine than the PC for correction. How do I know? Because I own them both. If it was me, I'd get MF cutting pads, foam cutting pads, and foam polishing pads. The buffing liquids I'd go with would likely come from Wolgang, Menzerna, or Optimum.

M105 & its analogues may not be the most user friendly products for someone to learn how the polish a car with. You gotta remember, most of these dudes recommending M10-whatever are experienced machine polishers. You may want to start out with buffing liquids that may have a longer work time.
 
swanicyouth said:
M105 & its analogues may not be the most user friendly products for someone to learn how the polish a car with. You gotta remember, most of these dudes recommending M10-whatever are experienced machine polishers. You may want to start out with buffing liquids that may have a longer work time.
Click to expand...

Hey man, D300/D301 are easy-peasy!
 
Setec Astronomy said:
For newbs I always like to recommend this: Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System 5 Inch Starter Kit, paint correction kit, dual action polishing kit

You can use that with the PC or with the GG 6". Get yourself some extra pads, and for best results you'll need a small air compressor (~$100) to fluff up the pads. After you use the D300 & D301 you can top with your M26 wax.

You'll have that puppy shined up in no time!
Click to expand...

I have to agree with this. Great recommendation. It works really well and is easy to use for a beginner.

If you don't have an air compressor, a good nylon pad cleaning brush works just as well for on the fly cleaning IMO.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
When you say "finishing wax" do you mean your #26? Because if you're talking about this:

Meguiars DA Microfiber Finishing Wax, final wax, car wax, cleaning wax

That's an either/or, you use either the D301 or the D302, not both (well if you really want to , you can use both--but it's not at all necessary). I hope you like it!
Click to expand...


Didn't they update their package so it included the polish as a 3 step process instead of the two for a better shine? could have sworn I saw a video of that.

edit: yeah they said you can use D300 then D302 and finally D301 since it's the wax. Excuse the newbness but isn't the polish just to bring out the shine and remove the haze from after you compounded and the wax seals the paint?
 
swanicyouth said:
Wow. That paint is what I call "jacked up".

The GG 6 is a better machine than the PC for correction. How do I know? Because I own them both. If it was me, I'd get MF cutting pads, foam cutting pads, and foam polishing pads. The buffing liquids I'd go with would likely come from Wolgang, Menzerna, or Optimum.

M105 & its analogues may not be the most user friendly products for someone to learn how the polish a car with. You gotta remember, most of these dudes recommending M10-whatever are experienced machine polishers. You may want to start out with buffing liquids that may have a longer work time.
Click to expand...

lol, yeah it's pretty bad. The paint is in bad shape in certain areas but nothing that can't get fixed! I figured as much, the guys in the video all make it sound as if m105 and m205 are very simple to apply. I'm a complete novice at this and will be doing a test spot once I figure out what to order.
 
Dr Oldz said:
I have to agree with this. Great recommendation. It works really well and is easy to use for a beginner.

If you don't have an air compressor, a good nylon pad cleaning brush works just as well for on the fly cleaning IMO.
Click to expand...

I have an air compressor in the shop I work in but the drain is so clogged up that washing the car their isn't ideal. I would buy the nylon pad brush that meguiars sell to clean the pads.
 
phoenixZ34 said:
edit: yeah they said you can use D300 then D302 and finally D301 since it's the wax. Excuse the newbness but isn't the polish just to bring out the shine and remove the haze from after you compounded and the wax seals the paint?
Click to expand...

I thought it was a little more complicated than that. The original system was D300/301. You used the compound (D300), then the finishing wax (D301) which has a fine abrasive in it to refine the compounded surface and add some protection. D301 is what we call an "AIO" or "all-in-one" in that it polishes and seals, polish and wax together etc. The problem is a lot of users don't like to use AIO's as they feel they are a compromise, or they want to use another LSP and want a clean surface for it, so they would skip the 301 and use another polish to refine the compounded surface.

Meguiar's answer to this criticism was to create a finishing polish without the wax, which is D302. IMO you will do fine with just 300/301, then top it with M26 if that is your ultimate choice for LSP.

A quote from their forum about the D301: "think of the finishing wax as a finishing polish along the lines of Ultimate Polish. Because of it's light cutting ability it will remove any hazing that may be created in the compounding step and leave a very nice finish behind. Perfect for topping with a longer lasting product if you so desire." Note that in that some response they said the durability of the Finishing Wax is on par with M26, so it might be redundant for you to top it with that.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
I thought it was a little more complicated than that. The original system was D300/301. You used the compound (D300), then the finishing wax (D301) which has a fine abrasive in it to refine the compounded surface and add some protection. D301 is what we call an "AIO" or "all-in-one" in that it polishes and seals, polish and wax together etc. The problem is a lot of users don't like to use AIO's as they feel they are a compromise, or they want to use another LSP and want a clean surface for it, so they would skip the 301 and use another polish to refine the compounded surface.

Meguiar's answer to this criticism was to create a finishing polish without the wax, which is D302. IMO you will do fine with just 300/301, then top it with M26 if that is your ultimate choice for LSP.

A quote from their forum about the D301: "think of the finishing wax as a finishing polish along the lines of Ultimate Polish. Because of it's light cutting ability it will remove any hazing that may be created in the compounding step and leave a very nice finish behind. Perfect for topping with a longer lasting product if you so desire." Note that in that some response they said the durability of the Finishing Wax is on par with M26, so it might be redundant for you to top it with that.
Click to expand...

Ah, that's good to know. In that case, I'll stick to d300/d301 and do several passes with the d300 to get the paint to where I want it to be.

For the pillars, I should purchase the 3" pad with correct? (silly question)
 
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