Road Film - If you drive your car in the rain your car has road film

He's a big fan of less expensive, OTC products for sure. "Let me bring you in...."

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... Scott from Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detail. Currently my favorite YouTube detailer. Seems like a great guy no doubt + he really knows what he's doing. Props to him.
 
Eldorado2k said:
... Scott from Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detail. Currently my favorite YouTube detailer. Seems like a great guy no doubt + he really knows what he's doing. Props to him.
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agree on this 100% learned so much from this guy..
 
Eldorado2k said:
... Scott from Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detail. Currently my favorite YouTube detailer. Seems like a great guy no doubt + he really knows what he's doing. Props to him.
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I agree. He just proves you don't need the expensive stuff to get the job done.....in the moment


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From what I've seen elsewhere online, specifically some of my YouTube content creators, this is a fairly common concern and topic over seas, especially in areas with water restrictions. Germany for example. Many vehicles have a good coating of it by the time they are washed.

Products called "pre-washes" are what people are turning too, citrus based cleaners and APCs that you spray the vehicle down with. Unfortunately, only a handful are "wax and sealant safe" at lower dilutions, but then you're not utilizing the product to it's potential as a "pre-wash".

Just another step that I can leave out on my routine thankfully.
 
But are they coating safe I wonder?

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Were I live we usally prewash with an alkaline based products. When diluted proberly it is not so hard on the protection. It's a way to break down the road grime in an early fase. The products has a high ph value as undiluted but when you dilution is in the summertime 1:40 it's most for bugs and roadgrime. In the winter when roads are salted the dilution is 1:20 to desolve it and roadgrime. The ph is'nt so high that it do so much damage to the protection. Protection is sealants and coatings that stand up good to it. But wax is more sensitive to it and often does not handle it. It's the chemicals in the alkaline product that's do so you can wash of most of the roadgrime. And we use power washer to rinse it away and not touch the paint but for the 2bm wash. In the winter when needed we use a solvent based degreaser as most tar remover is. After you rinsed the alkaline you apply the tar remover. The thought is that alkaline product breaks down the grime that comes from above earth materials and the tar remover breaks down grime that comes from under the earth materials. It's like a light decon wash without iron removal you do when you wash. You don't get all the grime that bonds to the paint but you reduce it very much. And I think you get more out of the sealants and coatings water behavior since the paint is cleaner for a longer time. But you lose around 10-20% of it's longevity that the manufactury claims and that I think is rather good. Citrus based prewash is a milder way to break down the road grime and for most times get both the alkaline and solvent based degreaser grimes they got breaked down.
 
What the hell is in all of this road grime everyone is talking about!

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Klasse Act said:
But are they coating safe I wonder?

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I could do an experiment come spring. I plan to redo mine anyways. I want to order and try the Auto Finesse Citrus Clean, unfortunatly shipping through amazon(not prime) is $2 more then the product is...coming a long way I suppose.
 
If you had a car you didn’t care tremendously about. You could try TSP as a pre soak. I haven’t done it but I can’t imagine it being terribly harmful if diluted properly. It’s used on all kinds of cleaning jobs


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Klasse Act said:
What the hell is in all of this road grime everyone is talking about!

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From a scientific side I do not know. What I think is random pollution in the air and residue from the cars such as fumes from exhaust and tires and brakes and from the road it self that mix up to a stubborn gunk that stats and bonds in the paint. On top of that you have when it's raining and then dries a whole lot of minerals. And the cars that comes from different dirty places by the roads and then get up to speed and release that dirt to the road. The next cars that drivers thrue it release some of the dirt up from the road to the air. You drive thrue this most of the time you drive. Look at cars that is parked beside a road for a longer time that it's high traffic and a higher speed limit. On there is typical road grime a grayish coat almost black. Or just don't wash your DD for a year that it's uncoated and now you have road grime all over the car with alot of other dirt.
I think if you remove as much as you can with chemicals you get more of the road grime away from your car. Yes you will get your protection away a little faster but better that then have to polish your car more often and clay it more. And why do you protect your car? IMO it's for protect the clearcoat from embedded grime. That sits to your protection instead. I don't think it's just for the shine and gloss you wax seal or coat it.
 
Klasse Act said:
What the hell is in all of this road grime everyone is talking about!

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At Mike explained, it is primarily oil based lubricants and fuels from the roadways. When it rains, this getting picked up by the water and thus ends up on your car. Water evaporates, oil and grime stays behind. Nasty stuff if left sitting for awhile.
 
I guess over the years of washing cars since the early to mid 1980's I always thought that when I washed the car whatever was on the car all came off, even more so in the years of being here with better products being used, who knew:doh:
 
PouncingPanzer said:
At Mike explained, it is primarily oil based lubricants and fuels from the roadways. When it rains, this getting picked up by the water and thus ends up on your car. Water evaporates, oil and grime stays behind. Nasty stuff if left sitting for awhile.
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Great summary!


Look for the link to this article in my glass cleaner review tomorrow.


:)
 
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