Because these two different types of tools work completely differently, there is no correlation between the two tools as far as the speed dial indicator on the tools.
For DA work
5.0 to 6.0 for removing defects or applying a cleaner/wax to a neglected finish
4.0 to 5.0 for polishing work
3.- to 4.0 for applying a finishing wax or sealant
Big picture, you need all the power you can get to remove swirls and scratches but once you've removed the defects, that is once you've removed a little paint, you don't want or need the pad rotating as fast as it can for either final polishing or spreading out a layer of wax or sealant so you turn the OPM's down.
For Rotary work
Heat is NOT good for clear coat paints, I've been countering the statement that heat is needed to break abrasives down for as long as I've been posting to the forums. Heat is an unwanted and unnecessary by product from the rotating action of the pad against the surface under pressure and over time.
What breaks diminishing abrasives down is pressure over time.
For most rotary buffer work you can run the rotary buffer around the 1500 RPM range. Some guys like a little faster, some guys like a little slower, depends upon your pad, your chemical and what you're trying to do influenced by your way of thinking and style.
I do almost all my cutting work around 1400 and 1500 RPM, for polishing, my first step polishing is around 1300 to 1400 RPM and final polishing is usually as slow as the buffer in hand will go. I really like the Makita for the fact that it will run all the way down to 600 RPM
Most Rotary Buffers have a tag on them that tells you what number on the variable speed dial matches to the RPM of the buffing pad, so once you have a feel for the RPM you want to buff at you dial the speed setting to the matching number.
When it comes to rotary buffers you'll find a lot of different opinions on speed setting and everything else, style, pads, etc.
