Rotary Cautions-Fears

MarkD51

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Mike/All,
I didn't want to somehow taint your other most recent thread with questions about some thoughts I've been having about Rotary Polisher use, but thought might be wise to ask these questions in another thread.

Yes, I have some caution, and some fears with Rotary useage, as I have done 2 of your horror stories mentioned, once burned through an edge on a rear quarter (thank God it was a beater, and the owner didn't much care) and the other is of course the common hologram trails.

I myself had troubles when "not playing it safe", meaning I was treading into unknown territory with quite heavy duty polishes, and compounds. When I used mild Polishes, mild Cleaner AIO's, or Glazes, no problem.

In the olden days, I would attempt mild polishes with good success, but I knew well not to go overboard with such, even if some mild holograms were left behind. Back then, I concluded "better to be safe than sorry", and would usually follow up after "light-mild" Rotary use with a Waxcoa Orbital to finesse the finish further in what I felt was a safer fashion. This seemed in virtually all cases to then remove what small amount of holograms were left behind, and as well evened the finish out.

Of course back then, who had a paint gauge, and although such is used today by many smart-accomplished professionals, I am well aware that a master detailer will also have good experience in knowing how to read paint. Those last two words I mention are of course paramount to being an expert, reading paint.

Glazes, I never had trouble with, those were never a problem to me.

But as for polishes, I know the abrasives in such can cut paint quite quickly. Back then (I'm talking 30-35 years ago) we usually only had wool, or polyester pads the size of basketballs!

We have come quite a long way since, but still, there is always room for disasters, and horror stories, no matter what the tools, or products in an arsenal.

So, let me ask this simple question Mike/All:

Is there any harm-foul of not going ape with a rotary, to not knock oneself out with trying to finesse-jewel paint with a rotary to the nth degree all by it's own?

Can one say to oneself, that, "OK, the paint still looks a bit marred, a little dull, I can see some Holograms, and unevenness of finish, but let's stop here at this point with the rotary and polishes"? In other words, one is not totally "perfecting" the finish by Rotary alone, to not even perhaps try to accomplish such with Rotary? Especially too if-when one has a DA in their Tool arsenal.

And then move onto the DA to futher finish-refine the paint in a more safer-user friendly fashion?

The whole thing in a nutshell I guess I'm trying to get at, and perhaps can answer some of my own questions, that yes, such would be OK, to ultimately consider that "less is more", to do the least amount of paint removal in the paint perfecting process to get the job done, and no more.

Many of us, such as myself, were "self taught". Seen a couple guys buffing at the dealer when I was a kid, and said to myself "Oh, that's easy, I can do that"! LOL Yeah, right. There are pitfalls for sure, and we probably all will fall into those at some point with enough experiences as time passes.

I know for sure, once Rotary gets placed into hands, this is an entirely different animal than a DA. Key considerations-attributes, are wisdom, time, and patience for sure!
Mark


 
Wow great thread with great questions Mark....

I'm going to have to let others chime in as I've been here since 7:00am and I have to be back at 5:30 am for Cars & Coffee tomorrow night.

I'm sure others will chime in and when I catch-up I'll add my two cents. I taught a class at Detail Fest on how to use the rotary including,

  • Machine sanding
  • Compounding with wool pad - Rotary
  • Polishing with polishing pad - Rotary
  • Jewelling with jewelling pad - Rotary
It's on our YouTube channel and it's full of tips and techniques.

Best advice, practice on something that's not important to you till you bring up your comfort level, then tackle real projects.

That is to say, don't learn how to use a rotary buffer on a black Viper the first time out!


Definitely get a Flex PE14 you'll never regret it.


:)
 
One example, my good buddy "Cadillac Jimmy's all black '65 Caddy Calais 25 some years ago. Jimmy's the founder of his KARA Car Club in Sarasota, Fla. (Kustom Antiques and Rods Association)

He really screwed the car up six ways from sunday one week after buying it from some little old lady. The car looked grey.

He called me in the next week. With a '67 Vette that was residing in my garage at the time, he musta figured I was the man to call in to "pretty-ize" his beloved Caddy.

Problem is with many of us detailers-hobbyists, you get placed "under the gun". You don't have 3 weeks to play with a vehicle, an owner wants to see magic occurring in just a few scant hour's time.

That next weekend when I seen the car, I was of course scared "you know what"! Black, a pretty Caddy, and wants the car looking pristine for a Car Show (In Illinois at the time) the following weekend.

Lots of sharp lines on that Caddy, especially the back rear quarters, delicate side view mirrors, 250 lb chrome bumpers which will snag a Rotary in a heartbeat, and go flying against something or other.

On this one, I had to play it safe, otherwise be destined to an entire remainder of life of messing up some guy's pride and joy.

I resorted to Nu Look Heavy Duty Cleaner Wax with the Small Waxcoa machine. This custom blended product was quite heavy duty, a combo of a good cutting polish, and a pure carnauba wax AIO. (heck, this stuff I think cost $11/gal back then, but was excellent!)

After the car was wiped down again after he washed it, I went to work.

Ahh, all the haze, clouding, swirls, marring, and lack of high gloss was gone right there.

But I knew I wasn't done just yet. On went some fresh bonnets on the Waxcoa, out came my Nu Look "Pink Magic", which at $13/gal would be just about comparable to WGDGPS 3.0 today. A ultra high gloss, pure finishing product, that there hasn't been many to come down the pike like this one in all my years of detailing, and caring for vehicles.

Holey Moley, the paint looked like a black mirror! To be sure, he pulled it out of the garage. Total knockout! The car looked like it just left the paint shop.

That following weekend, he took a "best in show" amongst 200 other cars. Won his very first trophy! He's probably got another 200 now.

The judges asked him "Who painted the Car?" He told them "GM did 25 years ago". I left him with trim-rubber products from Nu Look, as well as a few pint bottles of Perfume. They said he had the best smelling car in the show, "Bubble Gum" was what he used, smelled like "Juicy Fruit".

This milestone for him, was also sort of a milestone for me as well. Knowing that I could be placed "under the gun" and get good results. (even though there was mucho anxiety, and apprehensions at first)

I know well how that's the very hard thing that many of you forum members here face, getting highly pleasing results in a short time. I know it is not easy! Takes good knowledge, and good experience!
Mark
 
I had the privilege of learning how to use a Rotary at a body shop. On cars with fresh repaints day's before. So the paint was still fresh.

I did very little customer cars with OEM paint on a Rotary. I did compound/polished and waxed them, but like I said very few. And there was no PTG. I have not burned paint on a regular OEM paint finish.

Like my signature says I have body shop roots but then I discovered Autogeek. With all these new tools/brands/products and techniques.
I have only been on AutogeekOnline a year and I can do a lot. Because of what I have learned at bodyshops and what I have learned here and going to Meguiar's so much.

I would love to go to AG but they are in Florida and I'm in California. (One day)
I'm still not exactly sure what your asking though..
 
Pretty much what I'm trying to get at, is I'll probably not be detailing one of Kim Kardasian's exotics, I'm just a common man, just looking to get good acceptable results without doing any harm in the process.

All pretty much for my own experience, and satisfaction for my own personal vehicles mostly. While there are some wealthy people here in my area, it is not the norm, countless vehicles here have clear coat failure and headlights that look like you took a sandblaster to them, and these vehicles are in the range of 5-7 years old. Gone way before their time for sure.

Of course I cannot worry about such, and go on some wacky crusade, cleaning up this lazy NM town, it's their loss.
 
So your asking if you should just stick to rotary and old school tools and techniques since that is what your market is?
 
Great...

Thanks for sharing all that experience.

I think I've got your point. I've messed paint once (edge little burning) and that was with a free spindle DA... 'they' say a DA is veeery safe (yes it is), but 'they' also don't recommend Meguiar's burgundy 4" pad on speed 6 at an edge, fully pressure for enough time, even with a DA.

This pad today is my tire Gel applicator... Got my point?

I know use Flex 3401 and even with it, burning edges are a close reality, as it won't stop spinning where a 'conventional DA' would stop and 'safely' avoid any harm.

Probably I'm not the guy that'll come here to answer you, because I've never used a rotary, ever. I just enjoyed your thread enough to become interested in participating.

But I'm one to admit that 'Wheel' thing scares me a bit, since I'm the one that once upon a time burned an edge with a DA.

I never found that experience negative, since I've learned so much that day... At least until now, that never happened again. I like your saying we're 'under the gun', and being humans, we are supposed to make a mistake at some point.

Best thing I've learned with experience until now, is that I need to keep 101% FOCUS while I'm on task. Some things in life become automatic with practice, so you do without paying much attention... this was my first hard lesson learned - Automatic Pilot: OFF.

Today I was talking with a Friend from AG at Facetime and he was showing me PE-14.

Needless to say, just by seeing him handling it I became interested in ordering a rotary (PE-14, in case) to try. That looks too much user friendly, yet it just 'looks', ...

He showed me one by one, speed 1, 2, 3, ... and when he arrived at 6 looked like I was in a roller coaster, that cold in stomach ahhahaha

In Brazil (particularly my region), I don't have opportunity to go to a place and learn, I must order everything and try by myself after getting information here.

In near future, I pretend to get PE-14 and some test panels, read AG a lot, watch the Mike Phillips's Videos a lot, and burn some test panels until I feel secure to not do it on other people's car.

In fact, proper EDUCATION is our best friend, since I believe this is a huge differential in this market.

I receive many cars already detailed at my actual coating business, and you won't believe how many holograms I see 'installed'.

I think about, if they do it, earn a life doing it, and many don't really care about it, just for you being here and educating yourself in subject, IMO, gives you plenty of allowance to leave holograms if that happen to you at some point.

Sorry for writing that much,

Hope I've helped you in some way like you helped me.

Kind Regards.
 
So your asking if you should just stick to rotary and old school tools and techniques since that is what your market is?

I think that's up to you, and others to decide where my little place in the auto detailing world falls?

As for how I see myself, I feel I'm just an average shmoe, who found AG-Autopia a couple years back, and have progressed I think pretty good considering I'm living in a detailer's nightmare here in the desert southwest.

Here it is truly just wonderful, you can do a full blown detail on whatever, and 12 hours later, it will look like you haven't touched the vehicle in a month. I am certainly not kidding at all about this.

I'm just wondering, as my first post elaborated on, I have Rotary in possession, have had such for 13 years, a good variable speed Milwaukee, and while it may not possess the lightness of a Flex, Mikita, Dewalt, this is one heavy duty tool which will outlast me, downside of it, the Milwaukee is as heavy as a boat anchor.

All those Milwuakees were brutal, even 30 years ago, and dragging such around today for 2-3 hours over a vehicle, I'm looking at 2 Vicodins to ease the pain of such.

Such simple brain farts I asked my friend, if I need to knock my brains out, and my body using a Rotary of any sort for numerous hours on end, or can I "bail out" at some point, and if it is OK to switch over to the easier, and lighter DA to finish up is all.

As I mentioned, no paint gauge, these Rotary endeavors can be chancy, and risky, perhaps even to quite well seasoned professionals.
Thanks, Mark
 
Great...

Thanks for sharing all that experience.

I think I've got your point. I've messed paint once (edge little burning) and that was with a free spindle DA... 'they' say a DA is veeery safe (yes it is), but 'they' also don't recommend Meguiar's burgundy 4" pad on speed 6 at an edge, fully pressure for enough time, even with a DA.

This pad today is my tire Gel applicator... Got my point?

I know use Flex 3401 and even with it, burning edges are a close reality, as it won't stop spinning where a 'conventional DA' would stop and 'safely' avoid any harm.

Probably I'm not the guy that'll come here to answer you, because I've never used a rotary, ever. I just enjoyed your thread enough to become interested in participating.

But I'm one to admit that 'Wheel' thing scares me a bit, since I'm the one that once upon a time burned an edge with a DA.

I never found that experience negative, since I've learned so much that day... At least until now, that never happened again. I like your saying we're 'under the gun', and being humans, we are supposed to make a mistake at some point.

Best thing I've learned with experience until now, is that I need to keep 101% FOCUS while I'm on task. Some things in life become automatic with practice, so you do without paying much attention... this was my first hard lesson learned - Automatic Pilot: OFF.

Today I was talking with a Friend from AG at Facetime and he was showing me PE-14.

Needless to say, just by seeing him handling it I became interested in ordering a rotary (PE-14, in case) to try. That looks too much user friendly, yet it just 'looks', ...

He showed me one by one, speed 1, 2, 3, ... and when he arrived at 6 looked like I was in a roller coaster, that cold in stomach ahhahaha

In Brazil (particularly my region), I don't have opportunity to go to a place and learn, I must order everything and try by myself after getting information here.

In near future, I pretend to get PE-14 and some test panels, read AG a lot, watch the Mike Phillips's Videos a lot, and burn some test panels until I feel secure to not do it on other people's car.

In fact, proper EDUCATION is our best friend, since I believe this is a huge differential in this market.

I receive many cars already detailed at my actual coating business, and you won't believe how many holograms I see 'installed'.

I think about, if they do it, earn a life doing it, and many don't really care about it, just for you being here and educating yourself in subject, IMO, gives you plenty of allowance to leave holograms if that happen to you at some point.

Sorry for writing that much,

Hope I've helped you in some way like you helped me.

Kind Regards.

I think you've said it all quite well, and have added, and complimented some points I am trying to get across.

That yours, and some of my comments try to strike at the heart of what us car fanatics are, and try to aspire to be, and to ultimately accomplish with our hard work.

Am I some competition to a Mike Phillips? Well heck no, I couldn't shine the man's shoes. This is this man's life, and livelihood, I cannot hold a candle to him, and his masterful expertise. He's devoted his life to such, and us others, of course most of us do not have such unwavering dedication to the art, but we aspire to be, and always hope to learn more.

And here IMO is the greatest place to learn! Without a doubt.

Love all you folks here, thank you for chiming in, as I wish to learn from other's comments, suggestions, and advice, always. (Don't be afraid! LOL)
Mark
 
My understanding is that with most projects, a DA like the Flex 3401 can handle all of the paint maintenance issues and finish perfect. Rotary is mostly needed for removing wet sanding scratches, like when a car is first painted.
Rotary is a lot faster than DA, but some paints don't finish well by a rotary even in skilled hands.

You obviously have skill with a rotary now, and yet opt for the prudent choice of using a DA to finish. I agree.

If I had a really bad car to do and I had a rotary, it is what I would do.
I would start with the Flex PE-14 and finish with the Flex 301.

I haven't tried the Rupes so can't comment on it. Maybe I'd like it more for some tasks. I don't know.

By the way, the best way to restore single stage paint is with Meguiar's #7 to bring back the depth and color, not to polish it all out. #7 saves paint thickness and yields a better result.
 
I was always scared of a rotary due to so called horror stories and more than anything the overblown reality that everyone around you seems to make up.

So one day I bought one and dove in. Never used any form of a buffer before, my previous experience was simply using Mothers wax with blue shop rags (paper towels) I had watched a few of mikes videos on proper technique (which was far off from what my friends in body shops considered "proper") and went to town. I can't say I have run into any horror stories of my own yet with it. The only time I've removed too much paint was on a recent tractor that was very thin and it was on the roof where the sun had eaten most of it already. That was actually with the 3401 too not even the rotary.


The reason i use a rotary so much is because I am mostly doing heavily oxidized single stage paint and dont want to piss around all day with something else. I use a rotary because its the fastest an hurts my body the least. If your rotary is wearing you out then you need a different one. I use a Flex PE14 and its great, but I also use a Dewalt 849X for metal work and its a nice machine too at half the price.

If I had to get the same results I do with a rotary by using my 3401 I would be much more worn out at the end of the day. The PE14 is much nicer to use than the 3401 IMO. I use the 3401 to remove any holograms after the PE14. I also will use the 3401 instead of the rotary if the paint is not very bad and just needs a one step or if there is very little paint left to begin with.

Compound and pad choice influences holograms dramatically IMO. I use tufbuf wool pads and FG400 for the majority of the work I do. The holograms left are actually very faint usually. You cannot see any under flourescent lights but when the sun is low some will show up. Using twisted wool and a compound that doesn't finish as nice definately leaves some holograms and hazing though.

I don't own a free spindle machine other than the small 75 rupes I just got.


The reason I decided to jump to rotary right away and skip the free spindle route was due to the fact I am very picky about results, and I don't like working any harder than I have to. If I was using a DA I would always have the thought in the back of my head that a rotary could do it better and faster.

Same thing goes for the metal polishing. I was using mothers polish and shop rags, mixing in some steel wool and terry cloth to try and get better results. Then dove into doing it the right way, rotary buffer and compounds. When those wouldn't give me the results I wanted I dove into sanding. Read all kinds of statements about never sanding below a certain grit for whatever reason. Well sitting at 320 grit is not going to get you far especially since emery compound nearly does as much. So I went as low as 40 grit on some stuff and guess what? No horror stories yet. I just spent last night sanding two wheels at 40 grit and tonight I am bringing them back to a mirror.



It's more about confidence than anything. There is always the risk of an issue, but I read so much about where the issues would be, why people were scared, how you get yourself into trouble and other things to look out for that I just kept a lot of that in the back of my mind as I used the tools. Things like avoiding edges on paint to avoid burning through, and hitting edges the right way when doing metal so the buffer doesn't take you with it for a ride. The proper speed, how to hold a buffer (I never would've thought to hold one by the head until I saw Mike's videos and still didn't believe I would like it better after running grinders my whole life with side handles, but when I got the PE14 I never put the handle on and stuck with holding it by the head and now I wouldn't want it any other way)

When I first got the PE14 I did try to "burn" some paint, I never was able to but I was only using a foam pad and it was on a semi which are often painted with Imron.


Read as much as you can on them, get a lot of different opinions on them and then go to town. Maybe invest in a lighter model so you don't get beat up and also have less chance of ruining the paint due to less pressure from the machine and you being more comfortable. Once you get uncomfortable you get pissed and start making mistakes. Stay confident, but don't think your are invisible. Just pay attention to whats going on and notice the signs of issues ahead of time before the issue arises.

I tape off a lot of edges as well, or any sharp angles in the body panels so they are protected from the rotary. Later on you can do them with a smaller pad, lower speed and more focus or a different machine.
 
I've certainly poured in some mucho thoughts about this topic, not only over the past couple of dozen months, but a couple of dozen years, about rotary useage, the benefits, and the pitfalls of such tools.

Coming here to AG-Autopia was a very smart thing that happened to me as I look back, to see most of you folks using a DA for corrections, and perfecting paint finishes. I originally came here researching Paste Waxes, hit on Pinnacle Souveran, and then found this great site. As they say, the rest is history! :)

I've easily approached about $2K in goods from these two great sister vendors here, no regrets, as well as absolutely no regrets with interacting with all you very fine folks since I have joined as a member, thank you folks!

The many other "tangents of thought", which were of course just too much to place into an initial post here, was the thinking of the useage of paint thickness gauges.

I would assume with 2 stage paint systems, then all bets can be off for their worth. That yes you can accurately estimate how much paint there is, but these tools cannot guesstimate how much primer, how much base coat, and how much clear coat is on any particular vehicle.

Thus, tackling an older vehicle, one that has been neglected, lack of LSP's for many moons, then how does one judge, and say "Oh, I can tackle this with my Rotary and some bla bla bla Polish with an XYZ Pad, no problem, and not worry, be concerned about clear coat burn through?

Surely, none of us wish to burn through the nice little old lady's 2000 Vehicle, as she's such a nice lady, and you're gonna feel like a lowly turd if you somehow mess up, and burn such a finish.

As many of you say, there's little one "cannot do" with a DA, especically with such sophisticated, state of the art machines as the Flex 3401, and Rupes.

I've pondered for many hours, and seriously considered such machines over the past year, and maybe it is time to trade the old workhorse Milwaukee Rotary for a Flex 3401?

Maybe Mike P might say "NO NO, keep that Rotary for the precision micro-polishing with a Optimum Adapter, a smaller Backing Plate, get some Jeweling Pads, etc?" Mike's wise-smart, to then chme in and say "no, keep, and have all if you want to cover all bases"?

Maybe akin to a Clint Blurb, "A man has to know his limitations", and by the same account, a detailer may only go as far as his tool and product arsenal?
Mark
 
I've certainly poured in some mucho thoughts about this topic, not only over the past couple of dozen months, but a couple of dozen years, about rotary useage, the benefits, and the pitfalls of such tools.

Coming here to AG-Autopia was a very smart thing that happened to me as I look back, to see most of you folks using a DA for corrections, and perfecting paint finishes. I originally came here researching Paste Waxes, hit on Pinnacle Souveran, and then found this great site. As they say, the rest is history! :)

I've easily approached about $2K in goods from these two great sister vendors here, no regrets, as well as absolutely no regrets with interacting with all you very fine folks since I have joined as a member, thank you folks!

The many other "tangents of thought", which were of course just too much to place into an initial post here, was the thinking of the useage of paint thickness gauges.

I would assume with 2 stage paint systems, then all bets can be off for their worth. That yes you can accurately estimate how much paint there is, but these tools cannot guesstimate how much primer, how much base coat, and how much clear coat is on any particular vehicle.

Thus, tackling an older vehicle, one that has been neglected, lack of LSP's for many moons, then how does one judge, and say "Oh, I can tackle this with my Rotary and some bla bla bla Polish with an XYZ Pad, no problem, and not worry, be concerned about clear coat burn through?
Mark...

There are EPTGs that measure three individual film layers.
Expensive? YES!!


Surely, none of us wish to burn through the nice little old lady's 2000 Vehicle, as she's such a nice lady, and you're gonna feel like a lowly turd if you somehow mess up, and burn such a finish.

As many of you say, there's little one "cannot do" with a DA, especically with such sophisticated, state of the art machines as the Flex 3401, and Rupes.

I've pondered for many hours, and seriously considered such machines over the past year, and maybe it is time to trade the old workhorse Milwaukee Rotary for a Flex 3401?
I'd at least keep the rotary for polishing auto-glass, gel coat... :xyxthumbs:
Maybe Mike P might say "NO NO, keep that Rotary for the precision micro-polishing with a Optimum Adapter, a smaller Backing Plate, get some Jeweling Pads, etc?" Mike's wise-smart, to then chme in and say "no, keep, and have all if you want to cover all bases"?

Maybe akin to a Clint Blurb, "A man has to know his limitations", and by the same account, a detailer may only go as far as his tool and product arsenal?
Mark
Here's a couple of interesting "rotary-scenarios":

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/43684-hologram-free-rotary-buffer.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...aint-perfection-using-only-rotary-buffer.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...rvette-extreme-makeover-pictures-process.html

Bob
 
As stated the expensive EPTG s read the layers. They are in the 4 digits though.

Don't get rid of the rotary

Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
 
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