Red pad to apply wax, bare. Orange is way too coarse and white is too coarse also. You could probably use gold to apply wax as well. A rotary is really only for polishing out serious defects like heavy sanding scratches after wetsanding after a repaint. You should not be using a rotary to apply wax. Applying wax really isn't that difficult on a clayed and polished surface, and by using a rotary I think you are asking for more trouble than it is worth. You are considering using the wrong tool for the job. If you want to apply wax by machine, get a DA like a PC, and then use a MF bonnet to remove the dried wax.
I think it's wise to avoid absolutes here. Some people swear by finising with a rotary and others insist on a DA. The process of "jeweling" a finish before applying an LSP is specifically designed for using a rotary. I used the Flex PE 14-2 on Sunday to apply Liquid Souveran to my black Mustang. I used a Meguiars finishing pad. I removed the hazed wax by hand. It came out perfect. The advantage to using a rotary or DA to apply way is that you get a thin and even distribution of wax. No fingerprints in the finish.
If you have the skill, you can use a rotary to finish almost any paint, but some paints are so soft like black that you need a DA. A DA, like a Flex, always finishes hologram free with no buffer marks, but with that isn't always true with a rotary. That said, we are talking about wax application here, and not jeweling, and I would not use a rotary for wax or sealant application. A lot of people start with a rotary and finish with a Flex 3401. Based on that, I can't understand how it would be prudent to use a rotary to apply wax.
