Rotary or Flex 3401

Slate G8 GT

Slate G8 GT

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Hey guys, I started detailing on the side after I got my GG DA last year when people saw the work i did on my families cars. Most of the jobs i get are people wanting a one step on their daily driver, the only bad thing is that most people around here drive trucks or SUVs. I mainly use Poli-Seal or Hyper Spray Polish if they want Opti-Coat. While I get great results with my DA and MF pads, I'm been thinking about getting a rotary or flex 3401 to speed up the process.

I was leaning toward either a Makita or the new Dewalt DWP849X rotary for their speed and price(plus it will be nice to have when I come across super hard clears) but was concerned about finishing down in one step with one. It was suggested I try the Flex 3401 but with my budget I would have to find a used one at a good price or sell my GG DA to get one.

I've done a lot of research on using a rotary and know the dangers involved(paint burn thru, holograms, etc.) and have my old work truck and some junk panels to practice on before using it on a customers vehicle.

Those that have a flex how much faster does it correct compared to a DA?

So what's ya'lls opinion, should I get a rotary or try to locate a used Flex?

Thanks, Daniel
 
If you are going to be doing a volume of work I'd suggest going with the rotary but would also suggest tossing at least 20% of your detailing earnings in a basket for the future purchase of a Flex 3401. Your DA will clean up after the rotary but at a slower pace than with the 3401. With practice, the right technique and the right product and pads (on most paints) you can finish hologram free with a rotary.
 
There is no substitute for a rotary. I have all three and enjoy using all of them.

There is nothing worse than starting a car and having to do panels more than once - IMO. The rotary will never give you that problem. You can always go to the wool pad which will correct in no time flat.

I like the flex and would recommend it but if I had to choose I would not want to be without the rotary.
 
I have a 3401 and a Hitachi rotary, 3m and a rotary is a must for me. I cannot get a DA to do what a rotary can in a 1/4 of the time.
 
3401 is a killer but PE14 cuts really fast.

I'd suggest you go rotary, Makita 9227.
 
Rsurfer said:
You have a Flex PE, why are you recommending a Makita? Is it price?
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Yes, if you wanna spend the extra cash go Flex, otherwise everyone is saying good things about 9227, and Makita always make quality tools.

:props:
 
If I had to choose between my Flex PE-14-2 and my Makita 9227C, I'd pick the Makita hands down. While the PE-14 is light and smooth running, it would never survive the recons that I muscle through with the Makita.
 
Whoa! I love my Flex! What about the Dewalt guys?? That looked to be one fine machine and half the price if my beloved Flex PE-14...

OP, get both!! :) If your happy with your GG then get the rotary first. Re-asses after a month and prolly get your Flex 3401. I for one couldn't stand the GG and luckily it broke on within 2 hours of it's first use which prompted me to get the Flex3401.
 
Thanks guys. Yeah I would love to have both but my wife seemed to have misplaced my credit card:argue:. I've been leaning toward the rotary though since i do already have a DA, was just worried about finishing with one as most people around here just want a one step.

I would like to hear some opinions on the new Dewalt also, I see a lot about the Makita and Flex but not much about it.
 
I like the fact that you can get the 849 or the 7227 seviced, if the need arises, in most metropolitan areas of the country. Plus, the availabilty of lower cost recon units at these same places - some 1/2 price of new - with a warranty.
One wheel dedicated for aluminum tank and wheel polishing- and one wheel for paint.
 
I've never had any more luck clearing swirls with my Makita than I have had with the PC, Flex 3401 or the Cyclo. And, I don't think more than 20% of rotary users can finish hologram free, so you'll always need to use your Griots to finish.

My vote is the Flex 3401. I don't think it'll cut your time in half or anything, it's just nice to have.
 
Slate G8 GT said:
Hey guys, I started detailing on the side after I got my GG DA last year when people saw the work i did on my families cars. Most of the jobs i get are people wanting a one step on their daily driver, the only bad thing is that most people around here drive trucks or SUVs. I mainly use Poli-Seal or Hyper Spray Polish if they want Opti-Coat. While I get great results with my DA and MF pads, I'm been thinking about getting a rotary or flex 3401 to speed up the process.

I was leaning toward either a Makita or the new Dewalt DWP849X rotary for their speed and price(plus it will be nice to have when I come across super hard clears) but was concerned about finishing down in one step with one. It was suggested I try the Flex 3401 but with my budget I would have to find a used one at a good price or sell my GG DA to get one.

I've done a lot of research on using a rotary and know the dangers involved(paint burn thru, holograms, etc.) and have my old work truck and some junk panels to practice on before using it on a customers vehicle.

Those that have a flex how much faster does it correct compared to a DA?

So what's ya'lls opinion, should I get a rotary or try to locate a used Flex?

Thanks, Daniel
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I dont think the difference between the GG and Flex is great enough to warrant it. They are both nice and powerful machines. I dont think the Flex is going to give you that big advantage you are looking for.

The rotary would give you a speed advantage, but, it will not be a 1 step machine.

The GG with a Megs MF DA system is about as close to a fast correcting one step you will get (I know it is 2 steps, but, 2 easy steps).

The bottom line is, if your customers only want a 1 step, then they dont want perfect paint. Explain that to them. They need to expect improved appearance and not show car finsih. If they want the better finish, they need to pay for a multi step process.

I take pride in my work, too. I want all jobs to be perfect. However, you will just have to understand what you are selling. A 1 step is just not a perfect outcome. You only reduce swirls and shine the paint a little. It is not a correction process. It is only a light polishing.

btw, I have the DeWalt 849X. I have only used it to play with and try to learn. So far I am impressed. For the money, it is a really well built, smooth machine.
 
As Dave posted above, if you are going into production work the rotary is what you will need to get the time down.

If you are already using Opti Hyper polish, maybe add the Opti MF polishing pad to your current DA, and see if the finish & speed gets you to where you want to be ?

I have tested both the Megs and Opti ( 6" versions on flex ) MF pad and product combos, and prefer the Opti MF pads and Hyper combo better.

The opti MF polishing pad and hyper polish alone, will take out defects the megs "1 step" will not.

You already have Opti Hyper Polish, just pick up a 5" MF polish pad and see what you think.

Either the Megs or Opti MF set, I still think needs a follow up polish of PO85RD and a black pad, but that very well could just be me. Either set finish to a shine, but to me I see an opaque veil on the shine that needs to be touched up with PO85RD and a black pad. I see the same thing with anything that finishes with a white foam pad also.

So far the only thing I have used my Makita rotary on is headlight resto with the Diamonite Headlight kit. The reason for me not putting the rotary to paint yet, is I have not taken my sheet pans to the painter yet. Until I get some test runs on different pad / product combos I am not going to risk it. I don't need defect removal speed right now, I am not doing this for money.

Just something to noodle on before spending the money on a rotary right now.
 
sscully said:
Either the Megs or Opti MF set, I still think needs a follow up polish of PO85RD and a black pad, but that very well could just be me. Either set finish to a shine, but to me I see an opaque veil on the shine that needs to be touched up with PO85RD and a black pad. I see the same thing with anything that finishes with a white foam pad also.
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That must depend on the paint you are polishing. I have not seen that on Ford or GM factory paint that I have experience with. There will be a haze after the compounding step, but, the finishing step cleans it up nicely.

Again, for a customer paying for a 1 step, that will be good enough.
 
I wouldn't say I'm in production detailing, I just do one or two maintenance washes a week after work and then I average a full detail about every other weekend. It's not that my customers aren't happy with the correction, actually the opposite , most of them are thrilled and shocked I could getting looking that good:dblthumb2:. BTW I'm using OPT MF polishing pads. Don't get me wrong I love the results it just takes me 5 to 6 passes to get the results I'm happy with and if I could cut that down to 3 or 4 passes would be nice:buffing:.
 
tuscarora dave said:
While the PE-14 is light and smooth running, it would never survive the recons that I muscle through with the Makita.
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Has anyone reported the PE14 gone dead ...?!

.. not sure about your: ... it would never survive the recons that I muscle through with the Makita
 
Well I came across a deal I couldn't pass up and this arrived today :checkit:

IMG_1045.jpg


Can't wait to try it out, hopefully I'll get to test it on my work truck tomorrow. Half the clearcoat is gone off the hood and fender so I'm not too worried about burning the paint on it:D
 
Congrats, you'll enjoy it.

Once again the myth about burning paint is well exaggerated on numerous detailing forums. As long as you do not stay at the same spot and move your rotary in the process it's not that easy to burn the paint. Be careful with edges, the clear is very thin there.

Enjoy!!!
 
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