Rotary Polishing and Edges

travis2375

travis2375

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I have been using DA polishers for the last couple of years, first the PC then the 3401. I would like to start using a PE14 rotary polisher, but I am concerned. I have read all that I have found and watched many videos about correct usage, but there is one point of caution that I continue to hear about. Edges! People tape edges to avoid damage, all the videos I have watched have people polishing everything except the edge, I have read and heard that it is very easy to burn an edge, etc. I have listened to advice about how to make sure to buff 'OFF' an edge as opposed to 'ONTO' an edge, and do this by raising one end of the pad at a 45 degree angle, but I haven't found any video demonstration on how to polish panel edges or demonstrate this 45 degree angle technique. Also, if you tape the edge for protection, doesn't that leave a line that needs to be blended or touched up? And if so how do you do that? There has to be video demonstration out there right? I was disappointed to see that the Mike Phillips book didn't cover rotary polishing, Volume 2? Any links or tips would be most helpful!
 
It sounds like you have a handle on the do's and don'ts of rotary polishing. The most important thing to a noob, is keep the polisher moving. Rather then watching someone polishing on UTube, you need to get your feet wet and get a practice panel. :buffing:
travis2375 said:
I have been using DA polishers for the last couple of years, first the PC then the 3401. I would like to start using a PE14 rotary polisher, but I am concerned. I have read all that I have found and watched many videos about correct usage, but there is one point of caution that I continue to hear about. Edges! People tape edges to avoid damage, all the videos I have watched have people polishing everything except the edge, I have read and heard that it is very easy to burn an edge, etc. I have listened to advice about how to make sure to buff 'OFF' an edge as opposed to 'ONTO' an edge, and do this by raising one end of the pad at a 45 degree angle, but I haven't found any video demonstration on how to polish panel edges or demonstrate this 45 degree angle technique. Also, if you tape the edge for protection, doesn't that leave a line that needs to be blended or touched up? And if so how do you do that? There has to be video demonstration out there right? I was disappointed to see that the Mike Phillips book didn't cover rotary polishing, Volume 2? Any links or tips would be most helpful!
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You can tape the edges if it will make you more comfortable. Like you said, move off the edge and not on to the edge. Sure if you used pressure at 3000 rpms you can burn the edges. Just take your time around edges and use common sense. Don't worry about polishing the edges as it will blend in and your eyes will not focus on the edge, but rather the whole panel. I would however tape trim work and around plastic lenses.
travis2375 said:
how do you do edges?
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Thanks for the reply, You make edges sound easy! I talked to a body shop manager yesterday who made it sound like taking paint off the edges of a panel was very easy to do if you polished incorrectly.
 
travis2375 said:
Thanks for the reply, You make edges sound easy! I talked to a body shop manager yesterday who made it sound like taking paint off the edges of a panel was very easy to do if you polished incorrectly.
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Might be that the body shop only uses wool pads at the highest speed to get the job out the door. That could take an edge off in a hurry. Foam pads at more reasonable speeds (probably 1000-1500) are a bit safer. You still have to use common sense and keep moving.
 
When first starting out with the rotary play it safe and tape off the edges. Then once you get a feel for the machine and the techniques you can practice buffing off the edges.

A practice panel will come in handy too. You can actually burn through that paint without causing yourself any out of pocket expense. One of my test hoods I actually purposely burned through to see exactly what it took to do it. And to my surprise it took more than I expected, but still didn't take long.
 
I bought a makita over a year ago with various foam pads. I barely use it. I have never taken it above 3.5. I use it mostly to Spot polish wet sanding marks. Usually this results in me having to go over my work with a DA. I feel like if I put too much product on that it splatters everywhere and if I don't it
Hops and is too dry. I need an actual teacher.
 
Kris R said:
I bought a makita over a year ago with various foam pads. I barely use it. I have never taken it above 3.5. I use it mostly to Spot polish wet sanding marks. Usually this results in me having to go over my work with a DA. I feel like if I put too much product on that it splatters everywhere and if I don't it
Hops and is too dry. I need an actual teacher.
Click to expand...

This was my issues when I first started with my Flex rotary. Took me a good amount of practice to get it where I didn't sling product every where and where I could finish down with it.

I still have problems finishing down on occasion.

Pick up a test hood or something you can practice on. This really helped me out a lot because I wasn't so concerned about ruining the paint. Just enabled me to really get a feel for the machine and how it reacts.

I still mainly use my rotary for heavy correction work and follow it up with my DA. Really depends on the job I'm doing and the amount of time I have.
 
It sounds like a test hood will be my best way of learning. What do you guys use to support a test panel when polishing? Has anybody purchased the stands that body shops use? Where did you get them?
 
I made my own stands using saw horses and a couple pieces of wood to keep it in place. Not as sturdy as the ones body shops use but gets the job done.
 
same here. i just used saw horses. went to the local body shop and got 2 front fenders and hoods. drilled holes in them and screwed them to the saw horses (their getting tossed anyway) best way to figure out what you can and can't do plus figure out how to use the machine.
 
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