Rupes mark ii 15 stalling badly

Forgot to mention that I use the smaller backing plate on my Rupes 21. I switch to the larger plate for hoods.


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I'm not having stalling issues on my 21 MKII? I'm not saying it can't stall, it will on certain curves but a slight turn of the wrist to adjust angle coupled to change in pressure and machine speed and its spinning again. Reading the OP's intial post where it stalls for no reason on a flat panel is of some concern as my 15 MKI doesn't do that either. Can the OP take a video?
 
I thik you just not giving them enough time to work with it. You can find a video of Mike Phillips and rupes on youtube, see how can he work it through the curved without any problem.

I never have any problem of pad stalling from day 1 until now. I believed that sunce you just migrate from Rotary to Rupes, many of incompatible habit are playing with you. Come on practice more bros.
 
Or... buy a 3401 and have a machine that's built better, corrects faster, and won't ever bog down no matter what the circumstance.
 
roguegeek said:
Or... buy a 3401 and have a machine that's built better, corrects faster, and won't ever bog down no matter what the circumstance.
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there's a reason (actually a few) that it's been around as long as it has...
 
roguegeek said:
Or... buy a 3401 and have a machine that's built better, corrects faster, and won't ever bog down no matter what the circumstance.
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My Rupes corrects faster than my 3401 with far less effort.
 
roguegeek said:
Or... buy a 3401 and have a machine that's built better, corrects faster, and won't ever bog down no matter what the circumstance.
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This is another option.

You may find that the long throw just isn't for you, and you need something with serious muscle, this is the way to go. You can really lay into the 3401, and it will not stop spinning. You can finesse the 3401, and run into a curve or contour and it will not stop spinning.

It's another really well built machine, like the Rupes, and in my experience runs very smooth - the machine itself.
 
Zubair said:
My Rupes corrects faster than my 3401 with far less effort.
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As much as I liked my 3401, my PC was kicking it's behind removing heavy swirls and scratches. I'm talking one set of passes vs two all things being equal. The pad on the PC spun faster.

Maybe I just got good at using the PC?

The 3401 had a nicer "ride" though. Also, the 3401 was awesome at removing heavy oxidation.

It also excelled at working in cleaner waxes, and applying sealants because I could use a lower speed, and the pad kept moving. I'd cut and polish with the 7424xp, and apply sealant with the 3401 on occasion.. Doesn't make sense on paper, but it did on the job.
 
I appreciate all the response I have gotten. I thought I would get eaten alive but it has been good.
So here is where I am with my black M3.
I used Rupes blue/blue and green/green and yellow/yellow and white/white and Carpro reflect/yellow rupes. Rupes yellow/yellow is really outstanding but Carpro reflect is the best polish I have ever used. No fillers and it feels like a wax when wiped.
So as you can see from all the steps I have taken that I should be up to speed with the Rupes machine.
Yes I prime the pads as Rupes recommends.
I use zero pressure.
I have used every arm speed from super slow to super fast.
I have tried all RPM ranges mainly focused on 3 since that is what is recommended.
As I was applying sealant with machine it rarely rotated which really didnt matter to me since I wasnt doing correction but I would think it would rotate very easy and with zero pressure and keeping pad level.
Someone made a comment about me using a rotary and now using a DA. I also use a PC7424 and moved to the Rupes to cut down on vibration.
I dont think there is an issue with the machine and I think I have pretty good detailing skills but I cant figure this out.
Corey with Carpro has offered to help. There has to be a simple fix. Positive advice is welcome.
 
I have a hard time grasping these issues, I have the original Rupes 21 and other then weird curved panels it doesn't stop.

On speed 4.5 I can put a ton of pressure and it will just keep spinning.

I'm going out on a limb that the machine has an issue.



Best bet might be to find a detailer in your area that uses Rupes polishers. Bring your polisher for him to try it out. Maybe even a fellow Autogeek might be in your area that has experience using a Rupes polisher.,
 
That's really weird, I've heard people complain about these machines stalling on curves, but never a flat panel like you describe. I have a legacy Rupes 15 with a washer mod and I can use anywhere and everywhere without stalling at speed 4 and above. What speed are you using? Perhaps you do truly have a defective machine. Maybe Dylan will see this thread and chime in.

Can you post a video of what's happening for you?
 
Don,

Just replied to your email with Jason Rose in copy - best thing at this point rather than speculating about what is causing the issue is to see you working with it. If possible get a short cell phone video and send it over to us - sometimes its something really simple that we're just not thinking of.

For everyone else - lets not turn this into a Flex v. BigFoot debate - he didn't come here asking people to critique his purchase, he asked for advice on the tool he has and he has received it. If we want to turn it into a polisher pi$$ing contest I'll happily challenge anyone to a correction contest with the tool of their choice. Some of the statements made here are flat out false and/or uninformed - but thats for another thread, and not one where someone is asking for assistance.

Back on topic - I shared an anecdotal situation with Don in my reply - we challenged someone to stall a 15 Mark II at Detail Fest on our Fiat demo hood. They put their full weight on the tool, off angle, and at max speed rotation continued... to the point the pad smoked, he cooked the compound (broke the emulsion) and left a nice brown stain on the Fiats paint. Its quite difficult to stall out the Mark II on brute force, it takes a pretty deep curve or hard edge and even then its still polishing. Rotation is only part of the equation... that 15mm stroke still gets a lot done.
 
Glad to see the OP is getting the help he needs. As always, Rupes is a first class organization and comes to the assistance of Rupes owners when necessary. This is one of the many reasons I continue to support Rupes.
 
I can definitely understand people's frustration with the pad rotation issues. The whole thing can be solved in two ways:

1) Practice, practice, practice
2) Use the right tool for the particular job.

No matter how good you learn to operate a Rupes, you may still need to have another machine that may be better suited for some curves and contours.
 
runrun411 said:
I can definitely understand people's frustration with the pad rotation issues. The whole thing can be solved in two ways:

1) Practice, practice, practice
2) Use the right tool for the particular job.

No matter how good you learn to operate a Rupes, you may still need to have another machine that may be better suited for some curves and contours.
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I disagree,my 15ES on orbit alone corrects, never needed to pull out my 3401 or PE-14 on curves where the 15ES couldn't correct as a result of loss of rotation. They designed to correct with orbit alone as a result of the long throw. No need for another machine.

Too much false information on the forums. 8mm throws need rotation, long throws cut on orbit.
 
Zubair said:
I disagree,my 15ES on orbit alone corrects, never needed to pull out my 3401 or PE-14 on curves where the 15ES couldn't correct as a result of loss of rotation. They designed to correct with orbit alone as a result of the long throw. No need for another machine.

Too much false information on the forums. 8mm throws need rotation, long throws cut on orbit.
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Interesting comment. I use a Mini/PE-14 on tight areas and have never tried to correct with orbit on a long throw.
 
Zubair said:
I disagree,my 15ES on orbit alone corrects, never needed to pull out my 3401 or PE-14 on curves where the 15ES couldn't correct as a result of loss of rotation. They designed to correct with orbit alone as a result of the long throw. No need for another machine.

Too much false information on the forums. 8mm throws need rotation, long throws cut on orbit.
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Amen! :dblthumb2:
 
roguegeek said:
or... Buy a 3401 and have a machine that's built better, corrects faster, and won't ever bog down no matter what the circumstance.
Click to expand...

booooooooooooooooo hissssssssssssss

Not too mention Flex cloning a long throw machine LOL.

Guess Rupes was eating into their market share and they felt compelled to respond with a knock off.
 
custmsprty said:
booooooooooooooooo hissssssssssssss

Not too mention Flex cloning a long throw machine LOL.

Guess Rupes was eating into their market share and they felt compelled to respond with a knock off.
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crazy talk

All the Europeans are producing knockoffs (REMOVED OUTSIDE LINK, PLEASE REVIEW TERMS/CONDITIONS IN FAQ ON TOOLBAR)
 
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