Ancient1
New member
- Sep 4, 2015
- 292
- 0
Here is the link but will have to copy and paste and hope it works.
Wash - Ancient_1
Here is a copy of the photo on a different hosting site.
Salty roads leading to rust specks on freshly ceramic coated car... Normal?
- Thread starter nvestr
- Start date
Here is the link but will have to copy and paste and hope it works.
Wash - Ancient_1
Here is a copy of the photo on a different hosting site.
I looked at the label on my current car soap :
According to the description it is supposed to wash off clean with no additives, etc. Also, the name in itself seems to indicate that it's a no additives/no frills coating.
I'm trying to salvage this soap since I have a brand new gallon - want to be sure the soap is the problem before I buy a gallon of something else.
Obviously I will try to revive the coating with Reset and see if that brings back good water behavior. If it does, I may do some spot testing and only wash one side of the vehicle with this CG soap and see if it changes the characteristics...
Absolutely test it if it's the CG Citrus Wash Clear that is the problem or not. If you look at the site Chemical Guys dot eu and the product there. You see in the specs at the end of the page it says it has glossenhancers in it. And the description is tricky to read to find out if the products has something in it that leaves behind. I wondering sometimes why it's not enough to have a car soap that just cleans and nothing else. When coatings came that was great as they want nothing to interfear with the biggest benefit from them the self cleaning ability and water behavior. Sure they also have some that leaves behind but it's the same caractics as the coating mostly. But it's have been for so long to have them leaving something behind. Not even Meguiars rinseless wash D114 that left nothing behind could make the sales and got discontinued. So it's not many outside the detailing world that know about the important of haveing a car cleaning solution that is pure. And even many sealants today has great water behavior and self cleaning ability that can be interfeared with car soaps and waterless wash and rinseless wash. But there are some with glossenhancer that don't interfear with the LSP. It's just trying and see but it's a bummer when they do interfear. And it's not just the protection and glossenhancers left behind that can be a problem. But those that left their surfactans is often even worse. And that can come by useing to much of product in the dilution. So it's don't rinse off free. But that is what CG Citrus Wash Clear claims to be doing so that's great on that part. I have a lot of car soap that I don't use since switched over to spray on rinse off coating products and SiO2 toppers. Just cause of the degrade in the water behavior after only one wash. And it's not bad car soaps it's just don't work in synergy with the LSP I use now.
- Thread starter
- #43
Yeah, Chemical Guys site (in North America, anyway) has Citrus Wash Clear as CWS303 while mine is CWS302, which I can't find on chem guys website. The one on the Chem Guys website (303) has the words hydrophobic on it and is a different label and description. It's like the kep the same name (almost) but have completely different descriptions and characteristics. Confused!
- Thread starter
- #44
Here is the link but will have to copy and paste and hope it works.
Wash - Ancient_1
Here is a copy of the photo on a different hosting site.
Looks great! For that much grime I would probably pressure wash it off first though since my garage is 26 x 26 with a 13 foot ceiling height (heated with 2 floor drains) so I can comfortably pressure wash indoors during winter. Looks very nice in that final pic though. I think I will pickup some of that stuff for lightly soiled maintenance washes. I've heard it's not recommended for medium to heavy soiled cars, which makes sense...
- Thread starter
- #45
Ordered CSL and EXOv4 for my next ride when it shows up in May.
It was mentioned above that Opti mineral deposit remover could be safely used on a coating as it's acidic instead of an alkaline to chemically remove road grime and other contaminants? Does everybody agree with this assessment?
One thing I am maybe realizing is that with partially frozen slush and salt, which sticks to any surface, allows contaminants to dwell, dry and embed on the coating moreso than contaminants would in the summer with only liquids that drip off immediately, etc. I will see if EXOv4 does a better job at self-cleaning than CSL. I will have 2 white cars, one with CSL only and another with CSL + EXOv4 - will see next winter. According to GTechniq, EXOv4 is more durable and resistant to salt than v3.
Thanks for everyone's input.
It was mentioned above that Opti mineral deposit remover could be safely used on a coating as it's acidic instead of an alkaline to chemically remove road grime and other contaminants? Does everybody agree with this assessment?
One thing I am maybe realizing is that with partially frozen slush and salt, which sticks to any surface, allows contaminants to dwell, dry and embed on the coating moreso than contaminants would in the summer with only liquids that drip off immediately, etc. I will see if EXOv4 does a better job at self-cleaning than CSL. I will have 2 white cars, one with CSL only and another with CSL + EXOv4 - will see next winter. According to GTechniq, EXOv4 is more durable and resistant to salt than v3.
Thanks for everyone's input.
Mgavin1985
Member
- Nov 25, 2017
- 500
- 2
I use Opti MDR and meguiars diluted wheel brightener with good results. It seems to cover iron and other mineral junk calcium,hard water from the junk that splashes and dries on the paint. The acid seems to be very effective at breaking the bonded contaminates and excellent at cleanly rinsing off the paint. The same products work wonders on glass, plastic chrome. You only have to do one treatment to take iron and minerals off the coating. I really like the clean rinsing of the acid off. Degreaser and apc all leave a film. That slippery basic ph feeling is so hard to rinse of. The opti coat guys around me use mdr that’s where I started I do it after winter and prior to winter twice a year.
i use weak mixture of megs wheel brighter not the normal strength for wheel cleaning
i use weak mixture of megs wheel brighter not the normal strength for wheel cleaning
- Thread starter
- #47
Guys, re-awakening this thread. Does anyone have any experience with CarPro Multi-X and more specifically it's level of safety for use on a ceramic coated car?
I have been looking for a strong but safe APC and I like CarPro stuff generally. Heard all good things and reviews seem great, but noone really talks about how safe it is on a coating?
This would not be for every wash, but more for decontamination of built up contaminants that are not iron-based (use Iron-X for that about 3-4 times per year). I do also plan to use it on wheels - my wheels are also protected by CSL so do not want to prematurely remove the coating by using this stuff.
Thoughts?
I have been looking for a strong but safe APC and I like CarPro stuff generally. Heard all good things and reviews seem great, but noone really talks about how safe it is on a coating?
This would not be for every wash, but more for decontamination of built up contaminants that are not iron-based (use Iron-X for that about 3-4 times per year). I do also plan to use it on wheels - my wheels are also protected by CSL so do not want to prematurely remove the coating by using this stuff.
Thoughts?
Bruno Soares
New member
- Mar 30, 2017
- 2,482
- 2
I can't remember where but I saw CarPro saying something like "use Multi-X as a pre-treat for rinseless washes during winter when the paint is very dirty". It was on a coated car so it should be safe to do so. I'll see if I can find it again but being that I read forums, FB groups, instagram, chances of finding the post again is not very good.