Sanded through clearcoat?

rockford33

rockford33

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So I had a scratch I had filled awhile ago and finally got a chance to smooth it out. So I grabbed some 2000 grit paper, soak it, and start to smooth. I check my progress and I see this :

87799c10770bbc2eb7d71b71acadeb88.jpg


Hopefully it worked from my phone, but there is a cloudy area right where my hand is. Area is totally smooth, but wondering if I accidentally went through the clearcoat?

Any ideas on fixing this? About to put some PNS on for the winter, but may need to figure something out before winter really sets in...

Thanks,
Neil
 
3" microfiber pad with Wolfgang Finishing glaze
 
78f9d72e7d8d3df8d140d119da85951d.jpg


A little better photo. Just hit it with some Meg's Ultimate Compound on 3" microfiber pad. Not any better.....
 
Actually, the cloudy area looks to be getting bigger the more I polish, so I'm going to quit while I'm ahead....
 
There IS a reason why Mike Phillips always recommends against sanding factory clear (although not in this context). The fundamental problem with the approach of sanding a touchup is you're trying to sand only the touchup blob, not the rest of the paint.

I always try and use a block and mask the surrounding area so I'm only sanding the blob. It's also useful to "langka" it by trying to level the blob first with some thinner.
 
Yeah, rushing the job and not thinking it through is going to cost me. I was just happy I finally had a couple hours to wash and wax the car for the first time in months. Figured I'd sand the blob down real quick and seal the car for winter. Doesn't pay to rush :(
 
On the upside, I could just order wheel well moldings and cover it up ;)
 
I can't see the picture very good. Can you see a difference in the paint? Does a spot look like a darker color? From what I'm seeing it just looks like sanding haze. Wolfgang finishing glaze is' going to take out 2000 grit scratches, especially if it's a polishing pad and not a cutting pad your using. Your going to need something like 105, FG 400, etc. on a cutting or light cutting pad to remove the 2000 grit sanding marks.
 
I might fiddle with it some more later. 3" microfiber pad with Ultimate Compound didn't do anything. I have some other polishes I can try, but out of time today....
 
And the spot is much lighter in color than the surrounding paint
 
Odd, it looks glossy in the second pic where you can see your hand holding the phone and you can see the spot has grown. Was it polishing that made the spot grow?
Kind of looks like the clear is still there but coming away from the paint.

What's your machine and process?

Do you know the history of the car?

Is it the bumper or fender?
 
Polishing made it grow. Using a PC7424 ( non Xp). Process was light wet sand, polish with white foam pad and WG finishing glaze, then tried microfiber pad with Meg's Ultimate Compound.

I've had the car since new (2014). Spot is on the wheel well arch
 
Unfortunately you have burned through the clear. I am 99% positive that this is the case, especially since the affected area grew when you attempted further polishing.

Unless that deep scratch happened during while you owned the vehicle it is highly likely that a previous owner, dealership, or body shop had already attempted to repair that area, leaving thinner than normal film build. This is why I would never recommend anyone to wet sand their vehicle without using a paint thickness gauge first.
 
Stop polishing lol! You're removing more clear! At this point your going to have to refinish the panel. If you wanted to, you could try and spot it in your self, at least for the time being. All you would need is scuff pad, can clear and some blender. Unfortunately it will never look original until the entire panel is refinished. If you feel like doing it your self let me know. The color will still look off but the panel will be protected. That's a shame I hate it when that happens. Done it a million times...
 
Are you seeing black paint on your pads? If so, you did burn through, if no color transfer, stop now and find someone with a paint thickness gauge.

If the spot is growing, then it's likely you burned through.
 
No paint transfer that I can see, but the polish is gray and so is the paint. I have some small bottles of Alsa 2k Speed clear that I might use to temporarily touch it ip/protect it. No blender though, but I might be able to get some from the body shop up the road that has worked on my cars before.
 
Sorry to bother, but what is the blender and how does it work?
 
Softens the existing clearcoat so the new clearcoat has something to "bite" into, hopefully creating a longer lasting repair that is also less visible. At least that is how I understand it....
 
Mantilgh said:
Sorry to bother, but what is the blender and how does it work?
Click to expand...


The scuffing process roughens the existing paint to prepare it for clearcoat allowing it adhere. The blender is used at the edge of the spot repair to blend the new to the existing mid-panel. Blender is used after the spot repair has been sprayed. Prevents what paint guys call a halo.
 
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