Sanded through clearcoat?

rockford33 said:
Polishing made it grow. Using a PC7424 ( non Xp). Process was light wet sand, polish with white foam pad and WG finishing glaze, then tried microfiber pad with Meg's Ultimate Compound.

I've had the car since new (2014). Spot is on the wheel well arch
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Right on. I thought it might have been there previously and maybe polished out by a dealer leaving you with very little clear, or maybe to much heat(rotary, or drill) by you on a plastic bumper or a poor repaint.

Thanks for the info on the blender all. Listen to the painter, he has been there and done that.
 
Audios S6 said:
The scuffing process roughens the existing paint to prepare it for clearcoat allowing it adhere. The blender is used at the edge of the spot repair to blend the new to the existing mid-panel. Blender is used after the spot repair has been sprayed. Prevents what paint guys call a halo.
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:dblthumb2::dblthumb2::dblthumb2:
 
7PaintGuns said:
:dblthumb2::dblthumb2::dblthumb2:
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For my own self indulgence:

Is there an endearing term that body guys call paint guys?

Also, do you have any examples of what a halo looks like so detailers can be aware when we might be working close to a thinned respray?
 
Audios S6 said:
For my own self indulgence:

Is there an endearing term that body guys call paint guys?

Also, do you have any examples of what a halo looks like so detailers can be aware when we might be working close to a thinned respray?
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1. None that I can post here! I've been called "Rattle-can-Sam":cool:

2. Not at the moment but something I can do.
 
Light scuff and scratch filled. Next up shoot 3 light coats of clear, then a 50/50 clear/reducer around the edges to blend....
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As you clearing, start small with the first coat then second coat a little larger and again with the third. You only want 1 layer on the edge so it stays thin for easy blend.
 
Hmm, first coat of clear on and it just looks like a wet spot with lighter paint underneath. Didn't darken the color to match surroundings at all...
 
No its still going to look like that the clear is just for protection untill it's resprayed. It needs a color coat to fix the discoloration. I sort of mentioned that before I guess I should have been more descriptive.
 
Once you sanded through the clearcoat and hit the base coat, what has probably happened is that you have disturbed the lay of the metallic particles in the base coat. Those metallic particles are now closer to the surface than the virgin base coat and smudged from the sanding/polishing. That is why your seeing the different color in the affected area.

Unfortunately the only repair option left is to refinish the entire panel. And even that is a crap shoot in regards to matching the color, metallic distribution, and texture of the original finish.
 
The tape is a little way from the affected spot and rolled back to minimize chance of an edge. I did move it back a little more though...
 
There is a line on one side... it's cleared, I'm going to leave well enough alone for the winter. Had a bug fly right into the clear as I was spraying. Need to buff lightly to get rid of a little overspray.
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Sorry about the pics, phone keeps rotating them funny for some reason
 
This is just not my day.... had some paper towel in my hand wiping off some residue, felt a stinging sensation on my shoulder over and over again. Leaned on the car to get up real quick, and put the paper towel right in the fresh clear... and found a wasp inside my sweatshirt stinging me. 6 nice welts on my shoulder and some nice paper towel lint in the clear...
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First let me say I am not a expert or even close. Your first photo that started this thread looked like my 2002 Chevy truck repair. I removed the door moldings that were on since new and scratched the paint with a razor blade knife removing the adhesive. I went to youtube and watched Mike and Ammonyc on deep scratch repair. I sanded with 1500 then it looked like your picture. Next I used fg400 and looked like 2nd picture.I followed this with medium polish 2400 which made more improvement almost perfect . Since I had some 3500 Super Finish I used that next and it was repaired (luckily since I am a beginner) perfectly that you can no longer see the scratches. I did use a Flex Pe-14 on speed 1 and 2 for the compound and medium cut polish.My last step 3500 was with the Porter Cable. Because the photos you posted look like the scratch is deeper than my razor blade scratches I think you need to repair the sanded paint and forget about chasing the scratch. I hope you can fix the sanded area then fill the scratch with something like Doctor Color Chip. Whatever you do good luck maybe it it is still fixable.
 
rockford33 said:
This is just not my day.... had some paper towel in my hand wiping off some residue, felt a stinging sensation on my shoulder over and over again. Leaned on the car to get up real quick, and put the paper towel right in the fresh clear... and found a wasp inside my sweatshirt stinging me. 6 nice welts on my shoulder and some nice paper towel lint in the clear...
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Wow, ruff day.

I have also cut through my clear on two different occasions. Once trying clean up the damage let by an egging using a wool pad on a drill, and then after doing some wet sanding on some touch up paint on a deep gouge. It happens, live and learn. :xyxthumbs:

Sorry to hear about the wasp. That might have sent me to the hospital.
 
Had a unknowing neighbor try to get me to remove what was left of her clear coat on her rear bumper that was obviously already in clear coat failure. I polished everything but it, and told her it would need to be repainted.
 
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