Sappy paint

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Shonuf

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Hello, I'm a newbie and this may have been answered but I've not found it after looking. My Aston Martin DB9 has very nice condition paint. However, I must have parked the car under a tree and now I have tons of little spots smaller than water spots. I cleaned the glass with an aerosol spray Carnuba based bug/tar cleaner but am hesitant to try on the paint. Any suggestions or direction to an older thread?
All the best,
Mark
 
Go buy Denatured Alcohol from the paint section at any major retailer...Get some soft microfiber towels, lightly saturate with the alcohol. Then gently rub on the sap until it disolves. Take care around rubber and plastic trim, but damaging it shouldn't be a big problem. Then you'll need to re-apply whatever paint protection product you like.
 
Here is a how to article for tree sap.
How To Remove Bugs and Tar

Remove bugs and tar quickly with our paint-safe bug and tar removers, bug sponges, and detailing clay bars. In this detailing guide to insect removal, we’ll tell you how to remove bugs, tar, and tree sap from your vehicle without scratching. We’ll even give you some tips on preventing bug stains and etching. Learn how to keep your vehicle bug-free!
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It depends on how long you've let the sap sit before you jump in with a specific solution.
If it's topical, and not started to harden, generally a good wash with a shampoo high lubricity will loosen and remove most if not all.
If that doesn't do the trick, then follow the was by claying the paint. If you don't plan on doing any paint correction, be sure to use a fine-poly-clay such as Pinnacle Fine-Poly Clay and clay lubricant high in lubricity.

If it's dried and stuck on pretty hard, you can use the McKee's Bug & Tar scrubber, with McKee's Road Kill Bug Remover. The scrubber is designed not to scratch the paint and of my various uses of the product I've seen that to be true.
 
You could always try a detail spray or waterless wash also with a nice thick microfiber towel to see if that works first. Spray liberally initially and wipe off, you can even let it soak for a while before wiping.
 
Thank you all very much. I will most certainly try these solutions though I will have a professional do the Clay Bar as I've heard some like myself without experience, can make a mess of things. I genuinely appreciate all of the feedback.
All the best,
Mark (Shonuf)
 
Shonuf said:
I will have a professional do the Clay Bar as I've heard some like myself without experience, can make a mess of things. (Shonuf)
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First off, welcome to Autogeek Online! I see this is your second post. Everyone on this forum is here to help.
If you haven't done so already, take a gander at the "Detailing How-To's" button at the top of this page. Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides

If you use a fine-poly clay, and ample clay lubricant (can be a NR wash solution, Megs D114, or you're favorite quick detailing spray), there will be little chance of messing things up.
Watch Mike's video's below... Believe it or not, my wife who is "Interior Gal" of my operation, now helps with the clay process during details and she loves it.... Follow Mike's video's, you'll be fine.

Watch Mike Phillips do it on a 65 Mustang.

Part I

Part II
 
Btrahin said:
Go buy Denatured Alcohol from the paint section at any major retailer...Get some soft microfiber towels, lightly saturate with the alcohol. Then gently rub on the sap until it disolves. Take care around rubber and plastic trim, but damaging it shouldn't be a big problem. Then you'll need to re-apply whatever paint protection product you like.
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This is the best solution.

Denatured Alcohol is actually recommended by some OEMs in their owner's manual for removing tree sap from exterior painted surfaces. It does not harm the clear coat and works extremely quickly to dissolve the sap and allow you to transfer it to your towel with very little agitation required. I typically use a cruddy towel and toss it in the garbage when I'm done.
 
Hello all, I tried the tips and watched the video for Clay Bar. Thank you, I tried it on the back of the car and it looks great. I followed with Wolfgang Paintwork Enhancer 3.0 & Deep Gloss Paint Sealant. My Clay is a little dry and I decided to order a new bar before finishing the front but am very happy and excited about the results.
I can't thank you all enough.
All the best, Mark (Shonuf)
 
Hello all, another question regarding Clay Bar. Is it safe to Clay over a Clear Bra? And if so, what steps should follow? The same question for Clay over matte Black graphics?
Thanks,
Mark
 
Shonuf said:
Hello all, another question regarding Clay Bar. Is it safe to Clay over a Clear Bra? And if so, what steps should follow? The same question for Clay over matte Black graphics?
Thanks,
Mark
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Yes, it is safe to clay over a clear bra. Treat it like paint or any other panel that does not have the clear film.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Definitely be careful with your matte graphics. I wouldn't want to rub on them with anything other than microfiber. Once they get scratched there is no option to polish or correct a sticker.

We are all car people.... you owe us pictures of your ride!
 
I appreciate all of the help. I am a car guy too. However, I'm not much of a tech guy. I'll have to figure out how to get photos in here, advice on that would be helpful.
Cars:
2006 Dodge Charger Daytona, Red w/matte black graphics
2001 Mercedes CLK 430 Cabriolet Designo Edition, Metallic Espresso Brown (looks black), Saddle leather (1 of 200)
2013 Range Rover Sport (V8), Champagne metallic
2009 Aston Martin DB9 Convertible, Silver w/Saddle leather
2016 Jaguar F-TYPE (6 speed manual), Red w/black gloss graphics & wheels
 
*not recommended for beginners or those with shakey hands* If it's hardened on there, and the above doesn't work (or work fast enough) you can use a razor blade to carefully chop the head of the sap spot off. I usually do this even before attempting anything because it will cut down on how much you have to rub on the paint. This will allow the chemical to penetrate deeper as well. I'll usually use a little bit of megs 85 compound on a microfiber rag and go over the area before using an all in one polish / wax over the area to remove any marring. I've adapted this method from painting. Painters will use a razor blade to cut down runs to a sand-able level.
 
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