School Me on Using Spray on Wax as a Drying Aid

I went through about six Eagles putting D156 on after a D114 RW. Not as a drying aid though. No marring with plush, clean towels.
 
KMdef9 said:
Another thought...

I don't think all spray waxes are designed as a 'drying aid' either. Mixing them with water can dilute their effectiveness I would imagine, and also the water would make it difficult to put a thin even layer of protection on if not designed to do so. Aren't they designated as spray-as-you-dry waxes and others are spray-after-you-dry waxes? Not saying you can't use any one in any way you want.

I don't use them as a 'drying aid' myself as they add more risk of marring from buffing it off and degrades your main/base LSP quicker than just blowing and blotting with a QD.
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While they MAY have somewhat reduced effectiveness, the added lubricity to use during drying surely offsets drying without the added "aids", at least imho. ;)

Considering that most spray sealants/waxes these days are water based to begin with, it surely doesn't hurt.

In the case of WGDG Spritz Sealant for instance:

The multi-tiered, crystalline polymer structure of the sealant allows it to create a vivid, multi-dimensional shine that far exceeds the capabilities of ordinary sealants. The shine is comparable to what you get from a carnauba wax. Now that’s shiny! And if water-beading is the true test of a quality sealant, then Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant is a proven winner!

Wolfgang’s exclusive formula is water-based, which is safe for the paint and safe for you. Many sealants rely on petroleum-based solvents that cause long-term damage to the paint and emit harmful fumes during application. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant is safe on paint and clear coat, and it’s VOC compliant.

Then of course you have the ones we've been talking about, Megs D156 and Duragloss 951, both of which are water based. (One even calls itself an "Aqua" wax.):props:

I'd suggest perhaps that it would actually be a benefit for the solution to be somewhat diluted, (when drying) in so much that it actually ACTS like a "drying aid" and is more likely to 'dry', (like water) than 'cure' like a sealant. Again, when looking at the Wolfgang product, it actually states (when going on full strength) that it needs to be completely dry, and that it needs to "cure" for up to 12 hours.

Given, WGDG Spritz Sealant isn't one that we'd normally use as a drying aid, surely not at $26.99 a bottle but the principle is the same. (It even goes on to say that it will be diluted by water, and prevented from achieving it's full potential. Note it doesn't say that it will ruin it, or that it will not work at all. ;) In fact, it would likely dry/cure faster with more water, thus diluting the maximum strength.

After which of course it can then be "layered", as stated in the second paragraph of the Tech note.

Tech note: Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant is oxygen-activated. Once it is applied to the paint, it requires oxygen to bond to the paint surface. Exposure to water will “drown” the sealant, preventing it from achieving its full potential. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant will offer the maximum shine and protection if allowed to cure for a full 12 hours in absolutely dry conditions. We recommend applying the sealant in the late afternoon and letting it cure overnight. Once cured, the sealant will deliver outstanding slickness, gloss, and protection for months!

You may apply multiple coats of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant if desired. Wait 12 hours between each coat for maximum bonding. Multiple coats will remain crystal clear and the shine will only increase in depth and brilliance.
 
I use a lot of older drying towels that I would have replaced because they've largely lost their effectiveness in taking water off of the car while drying. They're still soft and don't mar the paint, but they do leave water streaks because less water is being retained in the fibers. But replacing them is not a necessity anymore as a result of these spray waxes. Because they allow my towels to really soak up a lot of water and fully retain it in the towel. If you wash a car that hasn't been waxed in a long time, the water will sheet flat across the panel and stick there for quite some time. So if I just barely mist these spray wax products across the panel, you can immediately see the break down of that flat water sheet. After spraying when I go over the car with my otherwise ineffective drying towel, I'm left with no streaking and I can use one towel to dry and wax the entire car without issue.

I primarily use TW's Wax & Dry as a drying aid, and then I go over the dried car with Meguiar's UQW for a final wipedown and that's my current 2-4 week interval wash and wax routine for my personal car. UQW should be more durable than TW's which is why I top it off, but TW's product smells great and is a really effective drying aid in my opinion. I can wash/dry/wax in total sun without pulling into the garage and pulling out the Porter Cable to go over the entire car with a wax or sealant once a month, wait for it to dry over, and then go over the whole car again to buff the product off of the paint...unless of course I have the itch to test a specific product out or wish to put a base layer durable sealant down once every 4-6 months.

So that's my experience with them. I continue to towel dry so I really enjoy using them. But for you, since you use a Master Blaster then you don't need one as a drying aid, but you can certainly use a spray wax as a maintenance wax or final wipedown after you're done with the metro.
 
I use Prima Wax As You Dry. Very good product. A little pricy but a nice shine while eliminating a step. Check it out here at AG.
 
Loach said:
I use a lot of older drying towels that I would have replaced because they've largely lost their effectiveness in taking water off of the car while drying. They're still soft and don't mar the paint, but they do leave water streaks because less water is being retained in the fibers. But replacing them is not a necessity anymore as a result of these spray waxes. Because they allow my towels to really soak up a lot of water and fully retain it in the towel. If you wash a car that hasn't been waxed in a long time, the water will sheet flat across the panel and stick there for quite some time. So if I just barely mist these spray wax products across the panel, you can immediately see the break down of that flat water sheet. After spraying when I go over the car with my otherwise ineffective drying towel, I'm left with no streaking and I can use one towel to dry and wax the entire car without issue.

I primarily use TW's Wax & Dry as a drying aid, and then I go over the dried car with Meguiar's UQW for a final wipedown and that's my current 2-4 week interval wash and wax routine for my personal car. UQW should be more durable than TW's which is why I top it off, but TW's product smells great and is a really effective drying aid in my opinion. I can wash/dry/wax in total sun without pulling into the garage and pulling out the Porter Cable to go over the entire car with a wax or sealant once a month, wait for it to dry over, and then go over the whole car again to buff the product off of the paint...unless of course I have the itch to test a specific product out or wish to put a base layer durable sealant down once every 4-6 months.

So that's my experience with them. I continue to towel dry so I really enjoy using them. But for you, since you use a Master Blaster then you don't need one as a drying aid, but you can certainly use a spray wax as a maintenance wax or final wipedown after you're done with the metro.
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my sister works for some household microfiber company and in their directions they recommend to boil microfibers to renew the fibers. if i were faced with a situation like yours, i'd try boiling just to see what happens.

i know what you mean, because before i switched to Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy, i used the Mothers drying towel. i'd use that as the primary drying towel after flooding and then use my old yellow Guzzlers that acted like what you are describing as the towels to soak up any minor remaining water as well as lightly buff the drying aid i'd apply at the time, whether it was OCW, OID or some concoction i was trying at the time.

years ago i received some low pile MFs from AG that linted to all hell from the start. so, based on recommendations from back then, i boiled them. didn't help remedy that problem - think they were just defective towels, but the towels didn't get ruined or anything.
 
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