Scratched Paint using Clay on SS Paint

[kmsdetailing]

I've NEVER scratched the paint of any car using clay. Don't know if the clay was too cold being the temperature dropped into the lower 50s last night in the garage or was it due to being a Single Stage Paint.

What can I do to remove the scratches caused by the clay bar on Single Stage Paint?

Thanks.

 

[cleanmycorolla]

What can I do to remove the scratches caused by the clay bar on Single Stage Paint?

Thanks.

Use a light polish...rops:

 

[Blackthorn One]

I had this problem with clay scratching SS black lacquer when I was using it to remove old house paint overspray. it was Mother's clay, which scared me from Mothers clay. Light polish was the answer.

 

[kmsdetailing]

I will try the polish. Should I use a DA or just by hand? I don't believe the scratches are that deep. That is to say unless scratching with clay goes deep.

 

[Blackthorn One]

If it was my car, I would do it by hand if the scratches were isolated and then follow up with a DA to get it as uniform as possible. If the scratches are all over, I would just use the DA.

 

[kmsdetailing]

If it was my car, I would do it by hand if the scratches were isolated and then follow up with a DA to get it as uniform as possible. If the scratches are all over, I would just use the DA.

I tried, by hand, using Megs Ultimate Polish. Ok to use with the DA? If that does't work, Megs 105 by DA?

Thanks

 

[Blackthorn One]

I tried, by hand, using Megs Ultimate Polish. Ok to use with the DA? If that does't work, Megs 105 by DA?

Thanks

I have never used that polish, but it seems like it is a fine polish and it seems like 105 would be a little coarser if ultimate doesn't work well enough. I could be mistaken. As always, use the least aggressive methods first. I see no reason why you could not use ultimate polish with a DA. Assess the severity of the scratches and proceed accordingly.

Each situation is different, but realize that SS paint is much softer than clear coat, and so be wary not to expect to polish it as much as you would clearcoat to get that severity of scratches out as you would out of clearcoat.
( I incidentally, have the opposite problem. Most of my polishing experience came from polishing SS paint, and I am constantly frustrated as to how difficult it is to polish basecoat/ clearcoat.)



If they are about the same throughout, then do a test spot with the ultimate and see how it goes. If there are spots that are particularly bad and some that are really light, realize it would not be prudent to use the same degree of polishing on the whole area in order to preserve paint thickness. ( you would not want to polish the light scratches as much as the deep ones just because it is what it took to get the area where the deep scratches gone completely.)

 

[kmsdetailing]

I have never used that polish, but it seems like it is a fine polish and it seems like 105 would be a little coarser if ultimate doesn't work well enough. I could be mistaken. As always, use the least aggressive methods first. I see no reason why you could not use ultimate polish with a DA. Assess the severity of the scratches and proceed accordingly.

Each situation is different, but realize that SS paint is much softer than clear coat, and so be wary not to expect to polish it as much as you would clearcoat to get that severity of scratches out as you would out of clearcoat.
( I incidentally, have the opposite problem. Most of my polishing experience came from polishing SS paint, and I am constantly frustrated as to how difficult it is to polish basecoat/ clearcoat.)



If they are about the same throughout, then do a test spot with the ultimate and see how it goes. If there are spots that are particularly bad and some that are really light, realize it would not be prudent to use the same degree of polishing on the whole area in order to preserve paint thickness. ( you would not want to polish the light scratches as much as the deep ones just because it is what it took to get the area where the deep scratches gone completely.)

Thanks for the response. I'm going to try the Megs Ultimate Polish with the DA. If that doesn't work, I will try the Megs 105 by hand. If that doesn't work, I will try some filler like Megs Glaze.

I should have read-up on SS Paints; my bad.

 

[tuscarora dave]

I don't believe the scratches are that deep. That is to say unless scratching with clay goes deep.

Often times, the contaminates that we use clay to remove from the paint are much harder than the paint itself. This may be obvious to some but possibly not so obvious to someone who has never been involved in, or is new to the process of using a clay bar.

The clay doesn't scratch paint, it's the particulates of contamination (which could be anything) that were imbedded in or bonded to the paint that gets between the clay and the paint while gliding the clay bar across the paint that causes the scratches. If the clay is colder it is typically stiffer or harder and may not allow the contaminates to be absorbed (for lack of a better term) into the clay, thus keeping it off of the paint.

If a microscopic brake dust particle gets between the colder, harder clay and the paint, and is allowed to glide around on the paint, light scratching could occur. If it were a grain of sand that was allowed to glide between the clay and the paint, the scratch would likely be much deeper.

Sometimes it's a good idea to use something like Iron-X or some other form or iron removing product before getting into the clay bar process, especially on softer paint or in cooler temperatures.

If it were me in this situation, I'd start with machine polishing the paint with a light polish and a softer foam pad to attempt the removal of any scratches. If that doesn't work, before jumping right to a compound I'd step up to a more aggressive foam pad with the same light polish. If that didn't work, then I'd consider a heavier cut polish or light compound. IE. least aggressive method first.

Hope this helps. TD

 

[forrest@mothers]

I had this problem with clay scratching SS black lacquer when I was using it to remove old house paint overspray. it was Mother's clay, which scared me from Mothers clay. Light polish was the answer.

The clay doesn't scratch paint, it's the particulates of contamination (which could be anything) that were imbedded in or bonded to the paint that gets between the clay and the paint while gliding the clay bar across the paint that causes the scratches. If the clay is colder it is typically stiffer or harder and may not allow the contaminates to be absorbed (for lack of a better term) into the clay, thus keeping it off of the paint.

Blackthorn - I think Tuscarora Dave identified your problem.

 

[richy]

I use Elastofoam now and will not go back to clay unless I need a really aggressive one. That being said, and I've posted this tip in many of my S & S's, is to microwave your clay. Do it for about 30 seconds and either keep doing it every panel or 2 as it stiffens up or microwave a cup of water to very hot and dunk it in there periodically. (Be careful microwaving water for a long time, it can be hazardous). I just re-zap the clay. You can make even the most aggressive of clay quite pliable and yet it does not detract from its cutting ability at all.

 

[Blackthorn One]

Blackthorn - I think Tuscarora Dave identified your problem.

It was over 9 years ago that I did it, but I believe it was at least 60 degrees in the garage, if not 65-74. I live in CA so it doesn't get that cold here. I have been wondering all this time though if it hadn't been the overspray that had scratched the paint and not the clay. It seems reasonable that the overspray caused it. However, part of the design of the clay is to take contaminants into the clay, and so the clay must be soft enough to do this.

After being scared off clay by my experience, I read that Griot's clay was supposed to be safer for your paint than others. I decided to try it. I have never had a problem with scratching paint by claying since. I have noticed that Griot's clay is much softer than Mother's was, and when it gets really warm out, it gets really gooey and sticks to your fingers and your paint like crazy if you don't use a light touch with a lot of lube. You also need to keep kneading it a lot, because your fingers go right through it after a minute or two. It is really easy to leave clay residue behind in hot weather with the Griot's clay with poor technique.
I always saw this as really aggravating, but since Dave's post, I realize that it is precisely because it gets gooey that it doesn't lead to scratching and is therefore so safe. It's the trade off of the design. I now realize that I would rather put up with clay that gets all gooey and sticky because it gets too soft in warmer weather than to have a clay that is harder and doesn't stick to everything. It is safer, especially for overspray.

Griot's is about the same coarseness as Mother's, but it is much softer than I remember Mother's to be.
Now I understand. Your clay didn't feel very coarse at all, which is why I was so perplexed that it scratched.

No offense intended to your products, but I think you see what I mean.

 

[kmsdetailing]

Thanks for the replies.