scratches still there after using flex 3401

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Edward Wynn

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I have done several vehicles with my 3401 using the LCC orange pad with UC,then using the UP with white LCC pad .They look super shiny and 100% better than they did.But at night I can still see scratches in the paint that I did not get out.1998 4 Runner white looks great except the scratches, what should I do as far as starting over to remove all the product that I have already put on .I use all Meg.products so far, the UC and then the UP and follow with yellow paste wax.Maybe I should slow my movement speed down to let the product work better and Iam thinking that im using to much product on the pad.Like I said the shine is there but scratches still there also. Any help will be thankful..Feed back please
 
Maybe those scratches are too deep to get out. See if they catch your finger nail, if so then they are too deep to get out.

The flex is pretty strong to get the job done. Sometimes, some area need more than one section pass. For example, I have used a wool pad and 3 section passes on the front and rear bumpers.
 
Edward Wynn said:
I have done several vehicles with my 3401 using the LCC orange pad with UC,then using the UP with white LCC pad .They look super shiny and 100% better than they did.But at night I can still see scratches in the paint that I did not get out.1998 4 Runner white looks great except the scratches, what should I do as far as starting over to remove all the product that I have already put on .I use all Meg.products so far, the UC and then the UP and follow with yellow paste wax.Maybe I should slow my movement speed down to let the product work better and Iam thinking that im using to much product on the pad.Like I said the shine is there but scratches still there also. Any help will be thankful..Feed back please
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Yes slow arm speeds. Just because you hear the noise of the polisher doesnt mean hurry up and move quickly. You want about an inch per second speed. Also make sure your applying down pressure at about 15 pounds and lightening up as the polish breaks down. Prime your pad if its a clean pad with no product, to do that put UC on the surface and spread like butter. Then apply some working product. You only need a few drops of working product. I like to go around the pad in a circle with my product bead. If your scratches are deep, then a sanding process is going to have to happen, because the scratches are far to deep to compound away. If your talking about light to moderate swirl marks, then you need to work the compound all the way, moving with slow arm speed. Do a range of 5-8 section passes depending on how much it takes. Same for the polish. Always inspect your paint after with a wipedown using the eraser or IPA solution to make sure you got perfect paint. If its perfect then move onto the next section.

If you followed those simple tips you wont have issues. Remember some clear coats are harder than others.

If you dont want to re-compound and what not, try using a glaze. It is a really light polish and is designed to fill in the swirl marks make a really perfect look. Then you wax or seal it up.

Good luck!
 
Have you watched Mike's video's on polishing on proper technique?

There are a number of reasons why you did not remove the imperfections. The first is it make take more than one pass on the section to get them all out. It depends on severity and paint.

Did you do a test spot and believe they were removed?

However, some deep scratches may need to be left alone because it would require too much paint removal.

Post some pictures showing the flaws you want to remove.
 
Bunky said:
Have you watched Mike's video's on polishing on proper technique?

There are a number of reasons why you did not remove the imperfections. The first is it make take more than one pass on the section to get them all out. It depends on severity and paint.

Did you do a test spot and believe they were removed?

However, some deep scratches may need to be left alone because it would require too much paint removal.

Post some pictures showing the flaws you want to remove.
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:iagree: Read this: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...37769-da-polisher-trouble-shooting-guide.html (I know that's for a DA, but a lot can be applicable to the Flex)
The complete list: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ke-phillips/23722-articles-mike-phillips.html

And always remember: it's better to have some scratches and some clear coat than no scratches and no clear coat...
 
Edward Wynn said:
I have done several vehicles with my 3401 using the LCC orange pad with UC,then using the UP with white LCC pad .They look super shiny and 100% better than they did.But at night I can still see scratches in the paint that I did not get out.1998 4 Runner white looks great except the scratches, what should I do as far as starting over to remove all the product that I have already put on .I use all Meg.products so far, the UC and then the UP and follow with yellow paste wax.Maybe I should slow my movement speed down to let the product work better and Iam thinking that im using to much product on the pad.Like I said the shine is there but scratches still there also. Any help will be thankful..Feed back please
Click to expand...
You should search for Mike's articles and videos for proper technique. He goes into detail about swirl removal and when it comes to "daily drivers" he always emphasizes that total defect removal is not really recommended.

The scratches you still see are most likely "RIDS" which are Random Isolated Deep Scratches. They stick out like a sore thumb once you have removed the light swirls and cobwebs on the paint.

You can remove them, but the question is why? You would risk taking off more clear coat than necessary.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-car-garage-how-videos/48365-video-how-remove-shallow-rids-how-machine-apply-both-paint-sealant-finishing-wax.html

Please don't take offense, I'm just saying that most people think about 100% defect removal, but on daily drivers it's not really resourceful. You say it's a 1998 4Runner and so, unless it's been repainted, you are dealing with paint that is well over 15 years old. But if you do decide you want the RIDS out. Try and gauge how deep they still are. UC and an orange pad are already pretty aggressive, and so be careful.
 
RMM said:
And always remember: it's better to have some scratches and some clear coat than no scratches and no clear coat...
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are you guys implying that the 3401 has the ability to do so? I thought it was "perfectly safe for the new guy" buffer
 
MTLean said:
are you guys implying that the 3401 has the ability to do so? I thought it was "perfectly safe for the new guy" buffer
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Safe as in "not having accidental burn through in a short period of time".

Whenever you do any type of paint corrections, you are essentially flattening the paint (removing enough top layers to match the depth of the imperfection). Some scratches are so deep that by the time you get there through this process.... you simply won't have much paint left. It's always a good idea to measure your paint prior to any heavy corrections.

If you try hard enough and long enough, you can literally polish the paint off any car.
 
I was a noob to machine polishing and got a 3401 and I made so many mistakes on the first attempt. Too much product, moving too fast, worked too big of an area, etc. Once I did what they do in the videos, I got way better results. The first thing for a noob is that doing it too long is going to burn the clear coat off, but you have to trust the polish or compound and polisher to do the work and move slowly.
 
I'm off today but stopped into the office for a few seconds and saw this thread...

Just to add to what others have already stated, when it comes to a daily driver you're usually better off to learn to live with the deeper defects than to try to remove them 100% because all the UV protection for the basecoat and the clear coat is in the clear coat and it has a half life of 5 years.

The more paint you remove... the less protection you have...

If it's not a "Show Car" then what's the point?


:)
 
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