Screwed up big time. burned paint?

update.

So i wanted to try applying 2K clear on it but i didn't end up having time. I have to leave this car 500 miles from my house for work purposes until the foreseeable future.

I will take it as a lesson learned and be more careful.

Honestly the spot is still so weird to me. Its just as smooth as the surrounding clear for it being bare paint. It is not noticeable unless you stare directly at the panel from the front and undetectable when your looking from the driver's door. Weird. I did put some Fusso coat on it to protect the paint.

thanks everyone for your help.
 
This also happened to me last month as I was polishing my car. I'm using a 3inch boss pads+3inch griots HD bp+some Chinese knockoff DA polisher. The car has some "sharp" edges on the quarter panel. I was on speed 3 and accidentally pushed the DA hard and then bam! Strike through. Car is a honda :(

Anyway I am already planning to repaint the car since it has a lot of deep scratches and dents. Can I ask the body shop to paint it with hard paint and a thicker clear coat?

View attachment 59543

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poleng said:
This also happened to me last month as I was polishing my car. I'm using a 3inch boss pads+3inch griots HD bp+some Chinese knockoff DA polisher. The car has some "sharp" edges on the quarter panel. I was on speed 3 and accidentally pushed the DA hard and then bam! Strike through. Car is a honda :(

Anyway I am already planning to repaint the car since it has a lot of deep scratches and dents. Can I ask the body shop to paint it with hard paint and a thicker clear coat?

View attachment 59543

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Click to expand...

To this poster and the OP, I'm completely baffled in how you get this sort of cut and can cause this damage with a DA.

How much pressure are you guys using when polishing and how fast are you moving across the paint?
 
The picture doesn't truly tell me it's burned through. Did you follow up with a polish yet? That could just be haze and compound residue.


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AutoScrub said:
To this poster and the OP, I'm completely baffled in how you get this sort of cut and can cause this damage with a DA.

How much pressure are you guys using when polishing and how fast are you moving across the paint?
Click to expand...

Add me to Autoscrub's point of view. The reason that DAs are in such widespread use is because it is virtually impossible to burn paint with them, especially with the PC type (short throw or 8mm throw). If you push down on them with anything more than about 14-15 lbs., they stop rotating (its one of the issues that people have with them, as the same principle causes the pads to stop rotating on curved surfaces pretty easily)so that heat generation stops. I'm not going to say that holds for a 3401, long throw. and definitely NOT the case for a ro
tary, but for a PC, or PC type DA it most definitely is. Junkman 2000 even did a video on how safe a PC is. He took a PC, used the most aggressive pad by Adams at the time, with a very aggressive compound (Meguiar's #85 or M85) , at highest possible speed on the PC, and held it on the same sport on a car for a long time, on his blue Corvette, which has paint in really good condition (so scratches should be pretty evident). Nothing, not even major scratches on the paint. Video is here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XAqpOe9Zt4&t=5s
(this is the first part of a two part video)

Please go into further detail as to what happened, as the facts don't seem to fit any known data about PC polishers. Is there any possibility that the clean coat was not adhered to the color/base coat, and in the process of using the PC, the clear coat came off?
 
Honestly I don't even know what happened to my paint. As I was only running speed 3 on the 3 inch and speed 4 the boss 21. As I was using the 3 inch to polish that part I saw something in the edge like it was "burned" or something so I took the 21 and tried to recover it with correction cream and the correction foam and then that happened.

Im only starting on my detailing and it seems to me that the clear coat of my car is already too thin. The car was detailed by a local carwash in my place a few times with a rotary. Oh well lesson learned and the car is due for a repaint anyway. I'll be careful next time.

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Anytime I work on a car I ask the owner if it's been polished or buffed or had body work done if I'm unsure. Beyond that check with a depth gauge to know what your working with.

My guess is the couple times it was buffed with a rotary it was buffed down to almost nothing and you just finished it off.

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Possinly in combination with the notoriously soft Subaru factory paint.

Also, as a newconmer to detailing, you are using a G21? Its normally condsidered a pro/ experienced amateur polisher, I am fairly new to machine polishing, and mstly use a PC, with very small amount of time on a 3401.
 
Subaru paint is pretty thick. It's still shiny so I don't honk you went thru the clear. Was there color on your pad?
I think you may of over heated the panel and discolored it. I did this once while polishing in direct sun light on a practice panel. I then applied a pure polish, megs #7. It made it look better and less noticeable. Might look bad but you still have clear in there for protection.
 
From the first posting:

"The pad had paint residue on it so i am assuming i cut through the clear. "

This implies that there was color on the pad, which means burn through. Doesn't matter how thick ot thin, hard or soft, the clear coat is, if the pad has body color on it, you've gone past the clear coat into the base/color coat. As was later stated, the car had been "detailed" twice by somebody of unknown competence with a rotary. The implication being that the clear coat thickness after these two "details" was extremely thin. The original paint thickness may indeed have been thick by factory standars, but it sure wasn't after the two rotary "detailing" sessions
 
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