sealant after glaze?

projectPONY

projectPONY

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I'm in the process of filling my cart with some products and I was wondering if I need a sealant after a glaze? Or would a wax work best?

current list is as follows:

#105
#205
#3 Machine Glaze
#21 Synthetic Sealant 2.0

and the appropriate foam pads for each.
 
I have found that a sealant helps the glaze lasts longer. I like to top the sealant with a wax.
 
So glaze, sealant, and then wax?

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This is my first paid job. Unfortunately, it's a black car. Car is not in real bad shape, just some surface contamination and factory orange peel. I plan on clay-ing, wet sanding with some 3k grit before the buffing and polishing process.

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IMO, using M03 after M205 is somewhat redundant. I stock and use M03 myself, but usually on older, single stage paints as a mild polishing step before any wax or sealants. In that role it works great, but I don't think it would add much, if anything to a modern finish after having been massaged with M205. There are others here who are much better versed on glazes than I and I hope they chime in, but I would think something like Porboys Black Hole for dark paints, or White Diamond for light paints would be a more pleasing choice.

Bill
 
projectPONY said:
This is my first paid job. Unfortunately, it's a black car. Car is not in real bad shape, just some surface contamination and factory orange peel. I plan on clay-ing, wet sanding with some 3k grit before the buffing and polishing process.

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Do you have a PTG and is this a factory clear? If this is a
Factory clear I wouldnt be wetsanding it at all. To much risk attached to wetsanding factory clear.

If the client is concerned about the orange peel then I would highly recommend you educate them on how thin the clear coat is and that living with the orange peel is a better option.
 
projectPONY said:
This is my first paid job. Unfortunately, it's a black car. Car is not in real bad shape, just some surface contamination and factory orange peel. I plan on clay-ing, wet sanding with some 3k grit before the buffing and polishing process.

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Click to expand...

This may be your last paid job if you try to remove factory op. Have a waiver signed or don't do it.
 
projectPONY said:
This is my first paid job. Unfortunately, it's a black car. Car is not in real bad shape, just some surface contamination and factory orange peel. I plan on clay-ing, wet sanding with some 3k grit before the buffing and polishing process.

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Click to expand...

Wow that seems like a very ambitious first detail project. I wouldn't think you really need to clay bar after wet sanding.
 
Why does everyone want to wet sand all the time? Have you any experience wet sanding at all?
 
My car has factory orange peel. I can remove it without doing any damage. Wet sanding was something I did everyday and buffing. So I am very comfortable doing it.

But i haven't removed it on my car because I want as much CC as possible. So I just live with the stock look.

If I really wanted the orange peel removed, I would have additional layers of CC sprayed. Then wet sand for a smooth mirror finish.

I have no plans on getting it repainted. So like I said, I'll just live with it.

Just my opinion.

Art
 
I had to wet sand a Civic, the entire car being the CC was really scratched up plus claying did nothing , paint was so rough, it came out fantastic but be warned its a lot of work.
In fact I have a video on my YouTube channel with me sanding it.

Mr.Redex88

If you never sanded before be warned because you never know what problems you may come across.
I only sand if I must.
Also, I hope you have a rotary and know how to use it because you'll be at it for a long time buffing out the marks with a DA.
Just something to think about.
 
I'm an ASE iCar certified collision refinishing tech. So cutting and buffing is common practice.

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From my understanding it is glaze than a sealant.

(Depends on which products you use, I think)

So your going to re spray it then wet sand it? Or just wet sand with 3,000 grit and buff it out?
 
hernandez.art13 said:
From my understanding it is glaze than a sealant.

(Depends on which products you use, I think)

So your going to re spray it then wet sand it? Or just wet sand with 3,000 grit and buff it out?
Click to expand...

Yes, just cut and buff.

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projectPONY said:
I would clay before wet sand.


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Wouldn't that be redundant? You clay to remove, as mike calls it, above surface bonded contaminants. With wet sanding, you remove all above surface bonded contaminants and clear coat. And if you're over zealous with it, you remove base coat too!
 
I use EZ Cream Glaze to get that pop I'm looking for and I get just that.
Then I top it with Griots Paint Sealant to protect it, the glaze last much longer.
Truth is I don't know what I'd do if I didn't have my CG'S glaze, it's that good.
The shine it gives me is truly amazing on my black car.
 
I had some at our group detail & used it on part of the car prior to putting on BF Black Ice. You didn't get a chance to try it out? I think you might have been trying the other guy's glaze, I think it was CG Glossworks.

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